Official 380 Thread

Unfortunately I opened both distribution panels and was not able to find an inline fuse in there.
So back to trying to find a fuse for the CO monitors that possibly may have tripped. There are two monitors on the boat. One in the galley up high above cabinet and one in the forward birth mounted on the wall. The one in the galley is energized and the one in the birth has no power. The unit is of current design and new. If it is the fuse, would there be a separate one for each detector or are they tied together? I have portable CO monitors on board but really want to fix the stationary one to bring it into spec with the USCG.
Any information is appreciated.

 

I recently installed these blue bulbs from lightinthebox.com. We really like them.

10pcs LED Festoon Dome 31mm 36mm 39mm 41mm c5w 212-2 6418 White Warm White Blue Reading License Plate Lamp led Light Bulb 12V
Light Source Color:Blue 3C_Connection:41mm

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Fire extinguisher question. Posting here due to the space constraints for mounting in a 380.
The old engine bay fire extinguisher is a Sea-Fire Marine G500A Halon unit. These are no longer mfg or sold.
The replacement unit is 27" tall vs the original being 17".
What have others done to mount the updated fire extinguisher?

 

Mine does not have a 2nd unit. I wonder if that was added. Try turning on all lights, etc in the stateroom to see if the installer tapped into a 12v that is not always on. Seems like you could back track from the unit to see where it's getting power.
If the 380 is standard with 2 sensors, erase this answer.

 

Not sure what is standard, I was assuming my 2001 380DA came standard with two units. There is just two wires protruding from a small hole in the wall where it mounts. I originally was going to try to trace those wires, but it appears I would need to remove that wall panel and so trying to take path of least resistance in looking for a fuse first.
Any thoughts are welcome.

 

Do you know what's wrong with yours, or just trying to update while doing the renovation?

There have been several threads about this over the last couple years, all had the same issue, new systems way too big to fit. The best I remember, the recommendation is to take it to a local fire extinguisher company and see if its serviceable. If it isn't leaking/empty, it may be good to go.

 

The OEM bottle is ancient and there are zero entries on the service tag.

When I was in the supply business, the local shops would do me a solid (like the precious canisters of Freon I still have). However, nobody is servicing the halon extinguishers for a retail customer. If I find otherwise, I'll post.
I'm thinking I can install after both engines are back in, using a block to provide clearance past the cable management conduit under the extinguisher and Raycors.

 

One thought, don't know if it would work, or be acceptable...

There is a lot of area outboard of the cockpit both port and starboard under the engine air inlets. There is solid plywood flooring, and I've always thought it would be useful space for something. Add a custom door behind the transom door, and mount in there on the port side.

Of course the downside is that area is more exposed to water/salt, but you might be able to cover it up to protect it?

 

Good morning
I am wondering if anybody knows where I can purchase a new electric actuator for the front vent window on my 38 Sundancer

Thanks

 

Before you buy a new one, see if you can get it to actuate by gently pushing/pulling on the cross bar while someone actuates the switch, and get some oil onto/into the strut. They get gummed up and need a little TLC every so often.

 

Sorry for the late response. Mine leaked when I got the boat as the top seam was separating. I got a West kit and some epoxy black dye. I fiber glassed the top seam where it was leaking and coated the entire muffler with dyed black epoxy. On my 6th season and no issues. I think it was like 25 bucks for the kit and 5 bucks for the dye. Looked like factory when I was done maybe a tad shinier.

 

This is correct, when I changed my detectors a few years ago I accidently grounded out the wires and popped the fuse, I could not believe it was an inline fuse but changed them and they where back up and running.

 

I remember seeing this a while back. If you search this forum I believe it is a common form factor you can get on ebay or amazon. They are inexpensive as well.

 

I just got a pack of Red LED festoon led for the lower units and two White for the spoiler and kept the oem perko disks. No issues for several years now.

 

it is called Cherry Burl veneer, I did some research a while back it it was super expensive for a sheet. I think someone did a group buy a while back but TBH, what I would do it find a local metal distribution shop and just get thin stainless steel sheets cut and it will give it a fresh facelift vs the cherry burl.

 

Where was the fuse? I have not been able to find it.

 

Thanks that is what I ended up doing. A new muffler was 3 months back ordered, so I patched her up.

 

take 12volt panel out and look behind