OFFICIAL 390/40 Motor Yacht Thread

[ManteoMike]

Anyone know how to remove the vinyl panel just aft of the electrical breaker door on a 2005 380 MY? We were out in very rough water the other day with lots of water covering whole windshield at times. The carpet in aft stateroom near the stairs got a little wet. Water is clearly comming from behind this panel. No issues with leaks when washing boat or in normal seas, but the other day we were heading into 35 mph wind gust and 3+ foot waves on Pamlico sound in NC. Lots of water.

If I can look behind this panel, should be easy to find source.

 

[alnav]

Anyone know how to remove the vinyl panel just aft of the electrical breaker door on a 2005 380 MY? We were out in very rough water the other day with lots of water covering whole windshield at times. The carpet in aft stateroom near the stairs got a little wet. Water is clearly comming from behind this panel. No issues with leaks when washing boat or in normal seas, but the other day we were heading into 35 mph wind gust and 3+ foot waves on Pamlico sound in NC. Lots of water.

If I can look behind this panel, should be easy to find source.



View attachment 115148

Mike, sorry, but offhand, I don't know how to remove the panel. I am thinking you might need to remove the switchboard trim and look aft from there?
But, when I was having aft cabin water issues a few years ago, I wrote Sea Ray service. They told me there was a potential problem with the threshold for the doors to the cockpit; they recommended taking that up and re-sealing. I think that might be right above where you are having the leak. My problem turned out to be the vertical seam between the hull and the deckhouse but that is quite a bit further aft of where you are seeing water.

 

[ManteoMike]

Alnav,

Thanks for the reply.

Could be the door threshold as lots of water came under the cockpit plexiglass doors. Will look into resealing this.

I opened the electrical panel when engine heaters were installed a year or so ago and I am pretty sure that area is very well sealed with inner fiber glass. Also, there was no water anywhere in engine room. If water got behind electrical panel, likely there would be water in engine room as there are holes in floor for wires going into engine room.

Thanks again.
Mike

 

[ManteoMike]

Update: The end panel on shelf near portlights in aft stateroom is easily removed. Hopefully will give me enough access to inspect behind this area.

 

[Ed Bacon]

Mike: 1)That forward panel is below the port sliding windows. I found that the windows bedding and the three drains needed a good cleaning. Aft end of port windshield could also be feeding water aft to the panel area.
2) If the aft cabin portlites are leaking, the water could run forward toward the forward panel.
3) If you detach the forward drawer, you can check out the area next to the steps. I Installed square dowel "dams" with caulked bedding to route any water aft to eventually make it's way to an inner stringer area and the aft bilge pump. If you are staying in the water this winter, the dams also will route the topsides condensation aft.
4) If water enters the carpeted area via the carpeted borders, it will wick its way through the carpet. I caulked the cabinets/sole seam after removing the border.
Two axioms of 390 leaks: #1. There is a leak on every 390. #2. When that leak is stopped, axiom #1 holds true again.

 

[ManteoMike]

Mike: 1)That forward panel is below the port sliding windows. I found that the windows bedding and the three drains needed a good cleaning. Aft end of port windshield could also be feeding water aft to the panel area.
2) If the aft cabin portlites are leaking, the water could run forward toward the forward panel.
3) If you detach the forward drawer, you can check out the area next to the steps. I Installed square dowel "dams" with caulked bedding to route any water aft to eventually make it's way to an inner stringer area and the aft bilge pump. If you are staying in the water this winter, the dams also will route the topsides condensation aft.
4) If water enters the carpeted area via the carpeted borders, it will wick its way through the carpet. I caulked the cabinets/sole seam after removing the border.
Two axioms of 390 leaks: #1. There is a leak on every 390. #2. When that leak is stopped, axiom #1 holds true again.

Ed,
Thanks for the tips.
Could very well be the sliding window, as you said. Will check drains and bedding in this area.

I have already removed the forward drawer to inspect behind cabinets. It was dusty but dry. Water seems to be originating just forward of this area.

Thanks,
Mike

 

[ManteoMike]

Alnav and Ed,
You were both correct, I was wrong about fiber glass behind electrical panel. The easiest way to see behind panel aft of electrical panel was to open up electrical panel access. And likely source of water on stairs carpet is sliding widow. I plan to clean out drain holes and rebed screws tomorrow on sliding window.

Thanks for your help.
Mike

 

[bubbles65]

Looking to understand the stock charging and battery system on a 2003 390MY. One reason for asking, is we thought we had an issue with the port side alternator. From day one when we purchased the vessel, noticed the port side analog gauge voltage meter was erratic compared to the stbd. The port voltage gauge would read at times only 10V to 11V and then at other times while underway still at same rpm (avg. 1000), the port volt meter would jump to 12-14V, the volt gauge would remain at these levels - + or -, for the whole 2 to 3 hours of cruising. Near the latter part of the season, after starting the Cummins 480CE engines after warm up, we would then increase the port engine rpm above 1200 to "excite" the port alternator, which would cause the port volt meter gauge to show a higher voltage output, but as soon as the rpm's were dropped to idle, to engage the engine into gear, the volt meter would usually remain in the less than 11V range. Took the alternator to a friend who rebuilds alternators (as a profession), who bench tested the alternator (at 1600 rpm) the alternator ran fine. The alternator has no markings on it. The stock alternator that was with the boat when it was new was a Delco Remy 22SI 130A. Not sure if this is the same alternator as stock.
When I removed alternator, there were only two wires attached, one red wire directly to the starter, and the other was a small gnd wire. No other wires visible ( I was looking to see if there may be an external regulator). The port side engine batteries had to be replaced late in the season, as they no longer would hold a charge. Age of the port batteries was unknown, and a few times we drained the batteries too low as we still were learning the importance of the generator, inverter and load draws. The boat has 3 sets of batteries (2 for each engine, plus house 4 group 27 6V). The battery charger/inverter is a Magnum MS Series with remote and temperature sensor on the house bank. The generator is a 9Kwh Onan. If someone wouldn't mind explaining what the engine alternator charges,? and if the generator is usually hooked up to just the house bank, or can it charge the engine batteries?

 

[ttmott]

Sure sounds like there has been some changes and additions to your electrical systems; not necessarily a bad thing...
Typical Sea Ray diesel battery systems wiring -
First you probably have two group 27 or group 31 12 volt batteries in each engine bank.
Each battery bank is dedicated to an engine and for your boat the batteries are wired in parallel.
The alternators are single wire alternators and have internal self-exciting regulators. The red wire from the alternator "Bat" post should terminate on the engine starting motor battery terminal and that starter motor wire (4/0 size) runs to the battery switch/solenoid then directly to the battery bank. That red alternator wire should be a 4 gauge size minimum. There should be a jumper wire between the Bat post and the #2 terminal for some Delco regulators (https://www.sbmar.com/articles/cummins-marine-delco-style-alternators-identification/). Lastly, there should be a ground strap between the alternator and engine block. If you are not charging look to see if that jumper is missing.
Even at idle those alternators should show 13.6 volts.
Sea Ray split the boat's systems between the Port and Starboard battery banks; generically they put the helm and nav systems on the Port battery bank and cabin and lighting systems on the Starboard bank but that depends upon the model and year of the boat. Then the critical systems (bilge pumps) were split between the banks.
Sea Ray may also have installed a battery isolator between the two engine battery banks; in which case the alternator Bat wires must route to the isolator rather than the starter motors. This is to enable both alternators to charge both battery banks yet still the alternators and batteries be isolated from each other. You may have issues with the isolator if you have one. The isolator provides redundancy should one alternator fail both battery banks still get charged.
The Converter/Charger should be a multi-bank which when either on shore power or on generator power should charge the two battery banks. I always leave the converter/charge on regardless if the engines are running or not; that way I don't forget to turn it on when we are back in the slip. It won't hurt anything leaving it on all times.
It appears that someone has added a house bank of batteries with an Inverter/Charger system. That system should not charge from anything but the inverter/charger. All battery, inverter/charger, engine negative, converter/charger (any 12 volt negative wiring) must tie to a common ground plane and the boat's bonding system and that wiring should be sized to carry the full load demand on that bank. If, for example, your inverter/charger batteries are wired for 24 volt and the engine/boat systems are 12 volt still the negative battery leads must all terminate to a common ground plane.

 

[Rgdodson54]

My alternators behaved the same way, the grid heater was causing the voltage fluctuation issues. One side worked, the other didn't. After the grid heater fried its alternator, I disconnected the heater. no more fluctuations and I get 13.5-14 volts at idle after starting. The engines start just fine in 25-30 degree weather. From a rep at the boat show, "unless you are operating in the artic, they aren't needed".

 

[Joseph Rybicki]

So yes. I meant hatches. Once you pull the carpet up, which isn’t horrible , there are hatches Sea Ray has for lifting the motors out. You will need to remove the stairs and the starboard couch to fully remove them. But they are factory installed and just siliconed in place. Once you cut the silicone the hatches will
Lift right up and allow full access to the motors.

So 22k is material and labor. Having East coast diesel perform the work right?

Hello, can you send me contact Information for East Coast Diesel?

Thank You!

Joe

 

[Rgdodson54]

Rudi Schlesner
410-739-5596

 

[LApalle]

Hello everyone, I’m looking for a diesel 390/40MY. Any leads other than what can be found on YachtWorld will be much appreciated. I’m in S. California.
Does the model have opening windows in the salon for cross ventilation?
Thank you.

 

[RBB]

Hello everyone, I’m looking for a diesel 390/40MY. Any leads other than what can be found on YachtWorld will be much appreciated. I’m in S. California.
Does the model have opening windows in the salon for cross ventilation?
Thank you.

the saloon windows are fixed.

 

[Salty40MY]

Much has been documented around this issue on the 420/44DB thread. Most likely you have dripping/leaking water fixtures, ie, shower mixing valves, distribution manifold, galley/head faucets, HWH, etc. Pressurize your FW system, listen for the onboard pump to kick on ever so briefly, and look for drips/leaks. This water eventually finds its way into these hollow stringers like you have pictured.

Bennett

Hi we have a 2006 with two mysterious water sources. The first is behind the starboard engine. We find fresh water behind the engine after running the boat. Based on the above I am now wondering if it is leaking from the fresh water system (e.g., master head sink) accumulating then running forward when we come off plane. The second is on the stringer on the outside of the starboard engine and also shows up after running the boat. In front and back of the water is dry so not running forward or aft. I an wondering if it is coming from under the fuel tank and ultimately from vent on the side of the boat. Please let me know if you have any thoughts.

 

[LApalle]

the saloon windows are fixed.

Thanks RBB, does that mean that cooking and engine odors linger in the salon without having any way to escape?
Or is is not really a problem?

 

[alnav]

Thanks RBB, does that mean that cooking and engine odors linger in the salon without having any way to escape?
Or is is not really a problem?

The engine room is pretty well sealed off from the salon and well-ventilated on its own.
There is a vent fan in the galley that does a good job of removing cooking odors.
Additionally, while there aren't any windows that open in the salon proper, there are in both the forward stateroom and the head. With either one of those open along with the cockpit hatch, plenty of ventilation can be had. Frankly, at least where we live, we are almost always on A/C or heat based on the outside temp.

 

[RBB]

The engine room is pretty well sealed off from the salon and well-ventilated on its own.
There is a vent fan in the galley that does a good job of removing cooking odors.
Additionally, while there aren't any windows that open in the salon proper, there are in both the forward stateroom and the head. With either one of those open along with the cockpit hatch, plenty of ventilation can be had. Frankly, at least where we live, we are almost always on A/C or heat based on the outside temp.

Alnav summed it up pretty well. However if I were you I would buy a diesel boat. My 390MY was gas and it was a dog, sorry guys. Never should have been powered that way. I assume the price new is what sold them, terrible power for a dry 28,500# boat.
Once it was ready to go boating notch that up to at least 33500#. Terrible performance with the gassers.
Loved Our 390MY, but never again with gassers.
If you stayed tied up to the dock its not a big deal, but if you actually boat then the gasser is not for you.

 

[LApalle]

Alnav summed it up pretty well. However if I were you I would buy a diesel boat. My 390MY was gas and it was a dog, sorry guys. Never should have been powered that way. I assume the price new is what sold them, terrible power for a dry 28,500# boat.
Once it was ready to go boating notch that up to at least 33500#. Terrible performance with the gassers.
Loved Our 390MY, but never again with gassers.
If you stayed tied up to the dock its not a big deal, but if you actually boat then the gasser is not for you.

ALNAV, RBB, thank you both for responding. Seems enough ventilation can be had in the salon (nice), and I’ll be doing coastal cruising in S. California so planning on diesels. Now I just need to find a well cared for boat within reasonable distance. Not that easy apparently.

 

[bubbles65]

Pinstriping: Looking to replace the striping on our 2003 390 MY due to dock scuffs, and peeling. Anyone know if the attached photo is the original colours, and sizing? Sorry forgot to take photo of the widths, but guesstimate looks like 2" black, with 1/4" duo colour. Any suggestions on where to order what looks like a Duo-colour (we think it may be Gold Starfire #25 3M, or Gold Metallic #03, over black. Any recommendations for colour schemes, will be seriously considered. thanks again to everyone. Learn so much from every single thread.