Official 390DA Thread

Great weekend, Friday took the wife and 2 couples to Cabana Blue to celebrate her 50th. Take the north entrance and tie up along the back wall. It’s shallow and around back was kicking up clouds a little. Then cruised to Metro, got back and surprised by Greg GRONLEY who found the needed jumper harness and fixed my analog gages which went dead after upgrade to VV5. Lovin this boat!
 
I admit I haven't dug out the manual to look. Here's my question. Are there 2 switches to control the cockpit floor lighting? My reason for asking is the cockpit light switch near the stairs needs to be turned on to turn the lights off. I'm thinking there's a switch somewhere in the cockpit?
The boat has underwater lights that use a switch next to the transom door and I wonder if that might have been the 2nd cockpit light switch location originally?
 
Ok, another question. Access to the starboard fuel tank sending unit. Of course, mine stopped working (both the smartcraft and the analog) since the last fill up. Not needing immediate attention as the port fuel tank reading is fine. I looked for an access point in the cockpit. None found. I'm thinking it'll require dismantling the back berth wall? Anyone done this?

Got boat back from Lands End Marine yesterday afternoon. Running nice and smoothly now. I now know the sign.... The trans starting to get noisy. Tune up "cured" the trans noise.

Oh,, also had new linear actuators installed on the hatch. Ordered them from Colony Marine. Also a huge difference.
 
Access cover in aft cabin closet on starboard side.
 
Found a reasonably priced replacement for the "40" sticker on the transom that wore away years ago. Sent them a picture of my stickers and they recreated it for me and now have it in their inventory for Searay Models.
domednumbers.com. Great service and response time. I should get my stickers in a couple of weeks and will report back if there are any issues.

[UPDATE|

They sent the wrong shade but quickly corrected by printing onto the correct shade of grey which, for my eye, is their dark grey. Ask them to send you a picture of their grey sample roll.
 

Attachments

  • 40 stickers.JPG
    40 stickers.JPG
    63 KB · Views: 67
  • 40 sticker old.JPG
    40 sticker old.JPG
    13.1 KB · Views: 76
Last edited:
correct - however there is also a switch in the cabin

The cockpit floor lighting is a 3-way switch setup. One switch is in the cabin just as you enter walking down the stairs (labelled "Cockpit") and the other is as you enter the boat through the stern door just to the right. It sounds like the prior owner turned it into a 2-way circuit and made the stern cockpit light switch control new underwater lights rather than running a wire all the way to the helm. That's fine as long as the wire for the underwater lights is the proper gauge.

Also: i'm sure it goes without being said, but the 12 volt "cockpit/bilge lighting" breaker at the main distribution panel has to be on for the cockpit floor lights to work.
 
The cockpit floor lighting is a 3-way switch setup. One switch is in the cabin just as you enter walking down the stairs (labelled "Cockpit") and the other is as you enter the boat through the stern door just to the right. It sounds like the prior owner turned it into a 2-way circuit and made the stern cockpit light switch control new underwater lights rather than running a wire all the way to the helm. That's fine as long as the wire for the underwater lights is the proper gauge.

Also: i'm sure it goes without being said, but the 12 volt "cockpit/bilge lighting" breaker at the main distribution panel has to be on for the cockpit floor lights to work.
I actually was messing with the light switches this weekend. The stern door switch does turn on the cockpit lights but no longer works with the stairway switch. Turn it on once and the cockpit lights and underwater lights (white) come on. A quick off and on changes the underwater lights blue while keeping the cockpit lights on. When turned on that way the stairway switch won't turn them off. Not a big deal, I guess.
 
I actually was messing with the light switches this weekend. The stern door switch does turn on the cockpit lights but no longer works with the stairway switch. Turn it on once and the cockpit lights and underwater lights (white) come on. A quick off and on changes the underwater lights blue while keeping the cockpit lights on. When turned on that way the stairway switch won't turn them off. Not a big deal, I guess.

Sounds like it was a hack wiring job. I would re-wire those underwater lights to a switch at the helm with proper sized wire. The hot wire for the four cockpit lights is likely not enough gauge to accommodate the underwater lights as well. The prior owner hacked the 3-way wiring and cut out the switch in the cabin. Other than safety being an issue, you should have independent control of the underwater lights and the cockpit lights anyways.
 
Everything has been switched over to led throughout the boat so I don't think there's a wiring overload issue and the underwater lights are led as well. I suspect the owner saved a few bucks having the install done that way. I might check into adding another switch and get the OEM switches back to OEM.

My more pressing project is to clear the front a/c raw water line. I occasionally get a high pressure warning and the strainer is clean. The water flow out the through hull is stronger from the salon than front. I picked up a a garden hose fitting and hoping introducing city water pressure will be be enough to clear the line. Just fresh water so no barnacles to deal with.
 
The flow out the cabin outlet is less than our galley as well, but not by a lot. There is a cleaner you can add to the strainer and let it soak before it’s flushed out - I’ve not done that yet but have been considering to dig into it. We looked into a 380 2 years ago the owner of that boat did the flush every year needed or not. His entire system was original to 2003 and worked flawlessly (his comment).

My more pressing project is to clear the front a/c raw water line. I occasionally get a high pressure warning and the strainer is clean. The water flow out the through hull is stronger from the salon than front. I picked up a a garden hose fitting and hoping introducing city water pressure will be be enough to clear the line. Just fresh water so no barnacles to deal with.
 
The flow out the cabin outlet is less than our galley as well, but not by a lot. There is a cleaner you can add to the strainer and let it soak before it’s flushed out - I’ve not done that yet but have been considering to dig into it. We looked into a 380 2 years ago the owner of that boat did the flush every year needed or not. His entire system was original to 2003 and worked flawlessly (his comment).
Do you have the name of the cleaner your PO used?
 
So my lines had a little crud but not enough to cause my the high pressure warning. I've determined there is no communication between the front ac and the relay. The front ac is fine but it has to be running in conjunction with the salon ac. If the salon stops, the pump stops regardless if the front is running or not. I'm not an electrical wiz but I'd like to find the location of the junction box for the relays and at least see if the wires are connected. I think there are wiring diagrams in the briefcase on the boat. Not sure if it would actually pinpoint the location. Guessing it is close to the pump? Not a clue....
.
 
Garmin VHF315 radio issue- please help. I’m getting an error message on the handheld GHS-11 “incompatible software please update software on the VHF radio. I did all this and still have an error. Has anyone had any similar issue and know the fix? I’ve waited 5 month to get this radio and having issues. Very hard to get hands on another one.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
112,945
Messages
1,422,752
Members
60,928
Latest member
rkaleda
Back
Top