Official 510 DA Owners Group

Removed the rope light under the cabinet last night and added a new outlet in the blank space of the switch plate. Always figured there should be an outlet there but didn't want to go through the process of cutting an entirely new one in. The new lighting is on order for both the galley and fwd. stateroom.

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Removed the rope light under the cabinet last night and added a new outlet in the blank space of the switch plate. Always figured there should be an outlet there but didn't want to go through the process of cutting an entirely new one in. The new lighting is on order for both the galley and fwd. stateroom.

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Have you figured out how to remove the rope light in the "champagne lounge" yet? I have one section that is burned out and I can not figure out where the power source is. I see that it goes behind the cabinets near the helm. I removed the access panel but did not see it there.
 
Have you figured out how to remove the rope light in the "champagne lounge" yet? I have one section that is burned out and I can not figure out where the power source is. I see that it goes behind the cabinets near the helm. I removed the access panel but did not see it there.
Yes, I did see where it comes through at the helm, but I'll be darned if I can figure out how to get to it. My entire strip is burned out with the exception of about 4 lights at one end, and they are glowing a pale red...LOL

Where it came through on the stbd. side was back behind the "2nd wall". The first wall is the locker door at your feet to the right, then there is the 2nd wall and the AC ducting is behind that along with a myriad of wires. If you look closely you can see where it pops through the deck and runs towards the aft and port side. It wasn't on my todo list last year, but it is making it's way up the leader board this year. :)

It is on my hitlist, but I wanted to tackle the easier ones first. I also need to replace the rope light in the island. The problem I had with that one is that it stayed on all the time so I just disconnected it. I will figure out a re-wire for that one.

I will keep you posted as soon as I get to it and figure the remedy.
 
Day 5 of the platform restoration and it's coming along nicely. Today he is spraying 6 coats of primer gel and hopefully by Friday/Saturday the final layers of the regular gel will be done.
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Should be done today. After the gel primer coats he sprayed 9 coats of regular gel. Today will be the final wet sand and polish then we install the new trim edge and stainless rub rail. The chock tracks are at the powder coater and will be done next week. Lastly, we pull the boat out and re-install the platform and tuck her back in.
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Another upgrade in progress: I hate the drawers under the fwd. berth. They don't travel out far enough for easy access. I added a 16" full extension drawer slide last night and this is the difference between the upper and lower drawers. Now that I know it will work, I will add the new slide to the lower drawer as well.
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Another upgrade in progress: I hate the drawers under the fwd. berth. They don't travel out far enough for easy access. I added a 16" full extension drawer slide last night and this is the difference between the upper and lower drawers. Now that I know it will work, I will add the new slide to the lower drawer as well.
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Great idea, I will be doing this as well
 
I’m a bump/paint guy and I said it before. Your glass guy does nice work!!
Thank you, yes he is really good!
Finished yesterday by installing the new rub rail and stainless insert. Looks like a million bucks compared to what it was just a couple short weeks ago. Waiting for the chock rails to get done at the powder coater and install the ladder and hatch. Next week my hauler will come back and pull it out so we can re-install it and push it back for the rest of the winter. In the spring I will have the SeaDeck installed and be ready for launch. No sense in getting it dirty all winter. :)

Here are a couple pics of the finished gel and rub rail.
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Hi all, looking at a 2002 510, cat 3196 engine monitor. How do you scroll to view engine hrs and load on the cat EMS display?

Additionally how do the three fuel tanks operate? There are three gauges but I only see port and starboard on the selector switches
 

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Hi all, looking at a 2002 510, cat 3196 engine monitor. How do you scroll to view engine hrs and load on the cat EMS display?

Additionally how do the three fuel tanks operate? There are three gauges but I only see port and starboard on the selector switches
On my 510 there are switches on the Stbd switch panel that are labeled “Scroll”. You hold that down and it scrolls through all of the information.

I have 2 selector knobs: port engine can either use the port tank or center.
Stbd engine can use either Stbd tank or center.

Once full, I run both engines on the center tank until I’m down under half then I switch to the outboard tanks.
 
Hi all, looking at a 2002 510, cat 3196 engine monitor. How do you scroll to view engine hrs and load on the cat EMS display?

Additionally how do the three fuel tanks operate? There are three gauges but I only see port and starboard on the selector switches
As stated above hold the scroll button down to view options.
The backrest cushion on your starboard side next to your two steps flips up and has your selector levers for your tank selection.
 
RGB Galley rope light replacement done. Looks better than the dingy, faded, yellow, 23 year old rope light. :cool:
Just waiting for the fwd. stateroom lights to come in and that is next. I wanted to make sure I liked the look and operation of this first. Need to finish the install with the rest of the 2 sided tape, but it looks much better.
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Our powder coater is amazing!! Less than a week to get back the dinghy chock rails and screws! We matched, as close as we could, the storm gray SeaDeck that will be going on.

The 3 holes with tape around them are the mounting holes to the platform support arms. We are going to mount the platform, through bolt it, then resin the screws in so the Sea Deck doesn't have the 6 circles to see the bolt heads.

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That looks beautiful so far. The grey you picked threw me off for minute on the tracks until I noticed the seadeck sample.
 
Wolf that work is just beautiful!

I can only imagine what the glas work cost!
The dang materials are crazy high these days. We bought $1,200 worth of materials so that he can work on other areas I want done on the boat besides the platform. I think the gel alone was around $600.00 with hardeners and additives etc. etc. (The flammable item shipping cost is freaking $200.00!!)

He is really good to me on labor since I give him so much business and he likes working for perfectionists with OCD tendencies like me. LOL. I pay him cash and I don't ask for an upfront price, I just want it done right. He has a shop in Munising Michigan and worked on a Formula this summer putting over 400 hours into it. The boater ran over a break wall and did some serious damage, as you could imagine. The work was flawless and looked factory new. (He is a certified Formula specialist as well).

I will pass along your compliments!
 
That looks beautiful so far. The grey you picked threw me off for minute on the tracks until I noticed the seadeck sample.
Thank you.
Now to figure out if they can do the chocks. The darn things are so tight and the support disc is a real bear to get on and off the thing. Adding a layer of powder coat may make it impossible to adjust or get back together. I need to go see the company and let them tell me what can be done later this week. I already have the new chock pads the boat rests on, and it looks worlds better with just those. (The original pads were very worn after 23 years of dinghy's slapping on them.)

More to come!!
 

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