Official 510 DA Owners Group

Does anyone know what this extra SS vent is for? The first one is for my water tank, but the second one is not in the manual. It dripped a little water out of today, and I have no idea what it is connected to.
IMG_2458.jpeg
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2459.png
    IMG_2459.png
    695.4 KB · Views: 28
Great day yesterday. Was able to get the platform re-installed and my fiberglass guru made another tent to fix an old repair job and make it look new. The new Seadeck will wait until spring.
IMG_0587.JPGIMG_0589.JPG


And the finished product...super shiny, a perfect match and blend.
IMG_0625.JPGIMG_0627.JPG
 
Next project started: New carpet in salon and the port fuel tank sending unit is installed. I think while I am at it and have easy access, I'm going to replace the heating element in the hot water heater. It would be a total PIA to do it when the bottom step is in place.

IMG_0622.jpgIMG_0623.JPGIMG_0624.JPG
 
If you are into it that far - change the anode and thermal expansion relief valve also.
I changed the relief valve last winter as it was leaking and being pushed to the main line drain when the water pumps were on, so that is off my list. Great idea on the anode!

My current challenge is finding the heating element. Every place I've looked says it is temporarily unavailable or not in stock but coming soon.

EDIT:UPDATE
I posted the question on another forum and got an immediate response on the heating element. I was resigned to just order a new tank, but a new element is a whole lot cheaper! (and easier).
For reference:
Look up any flange water heater element 1500w 240v
Camco 04383 on amazon for 16$

Then the other part of me says to just order a new water heater and not flirt with a 23 year old water heater any longer. LOL
 
If you are into it that far - change the anode and thermal expansion relief valve also.
Well, after draining the tank last night and seeing how crusted, disgusting and sediment filled it was, a new unit is on order. The mfg. date for this was 9/17/98 so it lived a long and purposeful life, but it is time for a new one and not gamble with trying to replace it in the middle of summer. (because that is surely when it will go bad!!)

Although while draining the tank, the water was clear. Once I got to the part where the water was below the drain line, it was absolutely nasty!!

And what a dumbass design! The 4 bolts that hold the heating element in are also the bolts for the mounting bracket. You need to bend the metal housing to get the mounting bracket off to be able to get the element out. Crazy!!!

IMG_0634.JPGIMG_0636.JPGIMG_0637.JPG
 
Anyone know of or replace your u-line ice maker? Old model in the boat is a model ULN - SP18B-03? - I have a 2002 510
 
So you replaced the 100 amp charger with a 30 amp and no issues?
Long Story Short when I purchased the boat the previous owner had one hell of an electrical gremlin that 2 places ( one very reputable & westerbeke affiliated) could not find. Previous owner chased this for 2 years, I welcomed the challenge and bought the boat well aware of the issue but was priced accordingly. The genset would spike/overrev and throw out 300+ volts before shut down. Issue was very random and would sometime take 1 hr to 2 hrs to happen or never happen. I was able to figure out the governor controller was the issue. Needless to stay a lot of components have been replaced including the battery charger. The battery charger that was in when I purchased was the pronautic. I had a spike when I first got it and smoked the battery charger. I replaced with the pronautic and have had 0 issues. The highest I have seen on the amp output is 27, I had ptsd for months so I was/am very attentive to what was going on down there. I have a decent stereo, 6 JL 8.8's/ 2 10's / 4 6.5's powered by 2 JL M600's and 1 M800 and have never had an issue.
 
Hello all and I am still trying to figure out why we have 2 power cords, a 240 and a 120.
When would we just use the 120?
I have seen a couple of the 510’s with just the 1 240 cord
Thank you
 
Hello all and I am still trying to figure out why we have 2 power cords, a 240 and a 120.
When would we just use the 120?
I have seen a couple of the 510’s with just the 1 240 cord
Thank you
Does the 120V cord have it's own Cablemaster? Does it have it's own interface/circuit through the boat? Or do you have a "cord" and don't know what it's for? Does your boat have an isolation transformer?
 
Hello all and I am still trying to figure out why we have 2 power cords, a 240 and a 120.
When would we just use the 120?
I have seen a couple of the 510’s with just the 1 240 cord
Fortunately, we have just the 240v/50 amp cord set and not both. That takes up so much space in the engine room having 2. Someone explained this to me last year, and it still didn't make any sense. Maybe some marinas couldn't handle the single 50 amp and you needed the 120???? No idea why.

That being said, I looked at a beautiful 510 last summer (2022) in Grand Haven. It had both power cords in the transom locker. On top of that, the owner fitted the bow with shore power inlets as well. Interestingly enough, he put BOTH power receptacles on the bow as well. My theory would have been if I only use the 50 amp cord, why install the 30 amp, but for some reason he did install both at the bow. While looking at the boat, only the 50 amp was plugged in as I recall.
 
Fortunately, we have just the 240v/50 amp cord set and not both. That takes up so much space in the engine room having 2. Someone explained this to me last year, and it still didn't make any sense. Maybe some marinas couldn't handle the single 50 amp and you needed the 120???? No idea why.

That being said, I looked at a beautiful 510 last summer (2022) in Grand Haven. It had both power cords in the transom locker. On top of that, the owner fitted the bow with shore power inlets as well. Interestingly enough, he put BOTH power receptacles on the bow as well. My theory would have been if I only use the 50 amp cord, why install the 30 amp, but for some reason he did install both at the bow. While looking at the boat, only the 50 amp was plugged in as I recall.
Does your boat have an Isolation Transformer?
 
Does your boat have an Isolation Transformer?
My 2002 510 has both 50A and 30A, each with Glendening and isolation transformers.. the 30A is kinda useless being that it won't run the battery charger or A/C.. just some lights and the refrigerator. I'd rather have a powered water hose. i also keep a 30am to 50a adapter on the boat for places with no 50a.
 
Fortunately, we have just the 240v/50 amp cord set and not both. That takes up so much space in the engine room having 2. Someone explained this to me last year, and it still didn't make any sense. Maybe some marinas couldn't handle the single 50 amp and you needed the 120???? No idea why.

That being said, I looked at a beautiful 510 last summer (2022) in Grand Haven. It had both power cords in the transom locker. On top of that, the owner fitted the bow with shore power inlets as well. Interestingly enough, he put BOTH power receptacles on the bow as well. My theory would have been if I only use the 50 amp cord, why install the 30 amp, but for some reason he did install both at the bow. While looking at the boat, only the 50 amp was plugged in as I recall.
Thank you
I may remove it to have the space, or just leave it alone and move onto all my other projects,lol
 
Thank you
I may remove it to have the space, or just leave it alone and move onto all my other projects,lol
That 30 amp 120V supply should be an alternative if the dock visiting does not have a 240V supply. Not many anymore don't but back in the 1990's and early 2000's it was prevalent.
Like @TheWolfTC says it is to provide the capability to keep the 120 volt appliances operational. It should also power the battery chargers which I was surprised to hear it doesn't.

Your boat's 120 volt system is divided into two sections normally fed by the two legs of the 240 Volt isolation transformer; one for each side. There must be a switch of some sort to switch the two 120 volt legs to the single 120 volt supply.

So, anymore most all marina's have 240 volt available either through a single 50 amp receptacle or dual out of phase 120 volt 30 amp receptacles. The dual receptacles require a splitter to interface. The only real need is if you are restricted to 120V availability because as you probably have an isolation transformer there would be no way to use a dock's 120V supply on the boat.
 
We got our first couple of seats installed this week while I have been in Hawaii. They did the hardest part first with that sunpad seat.
IMG_3110.jpg
 
More gel work progress as well. There were 2 cleats with cracked gel around the screws and the stbd. upper cleat was originally installed then moved. The factory screw hole repair was deteriorating and chipping, so it was time to fix it. Today the gel will be sprayed and finished tomorrow.
IMG_3111.jpgIMG_3112.jpgIMG_3118.jpgIMG_3120.jpg
 
This guy is ticking me off-doing all kinds of beautiful work to my bad a$$ boat "while i was Hawaii" .....:D
The seats look good! :cool:
 
This guy is ticking me off-doing all kinds of beautiful work to my bad a$$ boat "while i was Hawaii" .....:D
The seats look good! :cool:
Sorry...LOL
If it's any consolation, I have been working all week with only 45 minutes total at the pool. We depart today and the flight is 8.5 hours to Chicago, then a 2.5 hour layover and another 45 minute flight to Traverse City. LONG day!!

On 2nd thought, this probably isn't helping my cause. ;)
 

Forum statistics

Threads
112,684
Messages
1,416,408
Members
60,740
Latest member
Jack Paver
Back
Top