Racor Diesel Fuel Filters

[Woody]

So I was fortunate enough not to have biologic issues with any of my diesel fuel systems but when I bought the 58 all of the Racors had black particulate matter throughout. I had it analyzed and the results indicated Asphaltenes. I had all 5 Racors removed, cleaned and rebuilt with no reoccurrence. Not sure if that's what some of you are seeing or if you have Biologic AND Asphaltene issues.

I didn't know what asphaltenes were, this from Racor surprised me....

Fine solid contaminants that do not fall into the bowl immediately, are also carried with the fuel flow until they are stopped at the surface and sub-surface of the Aquabloc media element, at a rate and size that depends on the micron rating being used. Asphaltene-like soft solids, naturally present in diesel fuel, are known to be the main cause of element plugging. A special Aquabloc surface fiber design prolongs element life by resisting asphaltine plugging and is the reason Racor filters have such long life.
https://www.racornews.com/single-post/2016-1-15-racor-turbine-series-the-inside-story

 

[Boca_Vincent]

Perfect timing for this thread to resurface as I have been putting together info for a post on this very subject.
I’ve been battling what I believe are fuel issues for 2 years. Very intermittently at that, happens at random times on both sides.

Some history so you guys can form your hypotheses… The PO was an older snowbird that only logged 110hrs in 9 years. I first picked up the boat and drove her home with full tanks 3 hours ocean side on fairly calm day with no issue other than running warm at high RPMs (this I knew about from the survey). It wasn’t until about 2 mos later when I was exiting a rough inlet that I first encountered power loss on one of the engines. I’ve been on the FW fuel cocktail from the start and with about 200 hrs on them now , gone thru a dozen filters (6 p side). Still getting some black on the filters but not sure if this is bad enough to be the cause. I have fully removed and disassembled / cleaned both engine racors – they had a bunch of black crud in them. During that process I noticed that neither of my racors had the metal ball inside. Was this a design change sometime later on after Yr 2000? I’m just not convinced that the problem is entirely contamination lingering in the tanks. And this is why – I’ll give you the most recent scenarios.

Two weekends ago I went over to Bimini. Left home with roughly ¾ in each tank. Boat ran like a top for 2+ hrs , until about 10 miles out I start to experience the random power drop on the STBD side. I backed down to slower cruise the rest of the way in and then changed the stbd racor fuel filter – def a lot of black areas. Cruised around various spots over 2 days on the island with no power issues. Great – must be filter. Not so fast.. We leave to head home. On our way for about 45 minutes and then sure enough, port side starts with the power losses. I shut her down to change the port side filter. It wasn’t terrible, as I have seen worse come out. New filter, top off the bowl with fresh fuel, new o-rings, lubed and tightened up. Start her up and get back underway. Problem persists!!! This when I put my wife at the helm and I went into the ER to take the video. Does this seems to be normal racor operation? They both appear to be similar. We continue fighting with this for about 10 minutes before I bring her back to idle on both, then I go to the fuel manifold and flip the selector over to the other tank. Boom- all is good, right out of the pocket and cruised the rest of way home without a hiccup.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/wUtzcrpzVgge3DoN7

So, could the issue still be old fuel in the tanks – I am still picking up crud. The lines to the manifold, the racor units? Are those racor gauges that replace the T handle worth adding? I have been thinking that I just need to work thru more fuel treatment and filters, but the racor operation and fuel manifold thing are throwing me off. My video shows the racor pretty full during a power drop (about 40 secs in). Thanks in advance.

 

[ttmott]

Those Racors should stay full to the top of the filter elements at all times. They operate below atmospheric pressure so any air in them isn't good.
Besides the air in them you really don't know much without a vacuum reading at full load. They make a T-handle vacuum gauge you should probably get.

 

[The Bill Collector]

The PO was an older snowbird that only logged 110hrs in 9 years.

There are a lot more experienced diesel captain's on here than me, but this just screams at me... I would be very surprised if you didn't a ton of sludge on the bottom of your tanks and it's stirred up when hitting rougher water. Have a fuel polisher come out, cut access hatches in the tanks, polish fuel & clean the insides.

 

[Boca_Vincent]

Those Racors should stay full to the top of the filter elements at all times. They operate below atmospheric pressure so any air in them isn't good.
Besides the air in them you really don't know much without a vacuum reading at full load. They make a T-handle vacuum gauge you should probably get.

OK - this is what I was wondering most as I have never watched one working while under cruise. Possible the lack of the air check ball is allowing this to happen?
I'll order up one of these and see what it tells.

 

[ttmott]

OK - this is what I was wondering most as I have never watched one working while under cruise. Possible the lack of the air check ball is allowing this to happen?
I'll order up one of these and see what it tells. View attachment 132841

The check ball prevents fuel from returning to the tank when the engine isn't running. Someone probably removed it due to it clogging up. If this filter is installed below the fuel tank level you really don't need the check ball assembly.

 

[alnav]

OK - this is what I was wondering most as I have never watched one working while under cruise. Possible the lack of the air check ball is allowing this to happen?
I'll order up one of these and see what it tells. View attachment 132841

If I were you, in addition to the above advice, I would consider rebuilding the filter assemblies. I did mine a couple of years ago and here are more gaskets in there than you might think. Parker Hannifin sells rebuild packs tailored for the model which have everything you need.

 

[my3sons]

Sounds like you have isolated it as a problem somewhere between the tank vent and the fuel selector manifold.
Put the vacuum gauge on it and high vacuum indicates a blockage. Vent plugged, something in the tank plugging the fuel pick up or a collapsing/delaminating fuel hose between the tank and the selector manifold. Not high vacuum indicates an air leak between the fuel pick up and the selector manifold. Most likely high up or you would see fuel leaking when the tanks are full.
My guess from what you posted would be something in the tank or a delaminating/blocked fuel line. Just guesses, first step is the vac gauge. Good luck.

 

[fwebster]

Perfect timing for this thread to resurface as I have been putting together info for a post on this very subject.
I’ve been battling what I believe are fuel issues for 2 years. Very intermittently at that, happens at random times on both sides.

Some history so you guys can form your hypotheses… The PO was an older snowbird that only logged 110hrs in 9 years. I first picked up the boat and drove her home with full tanks 3 hours ocean side on fairly calm day with no issue other than running warm at high RPMs (this I knew about from the survey). It wasn’t until about 2 mos later when I was exiting a rough inlet that I first encountered power loss on one of the engines. I’ve been on the FW fuel cocktail from the start and with about 200 hrs on them now , gone thru a dozen filters (6 p side). Still getting some black on the filters but not sure if this is bad enough to be the cause. I have fully removed and disassembled / cleaned both engine racors – they had a bunch of black crud in them. During that process I noticed that neither of my racors had the metal ball inside. Was this a design change sometime later on after Yr 2000? I’m just not convinced that the problem is entirely contamination lingering in the tanks. And this is why – I’ll give you the most recent scenarios.

Two weekends ago I went over to Bimini. Left home with roughly ¾ in each tank. Boat ran like a top for 2+ hrs , until about 10 miles out I start to experience the random power drop on the STBD side. I backed down to slower cruise the rest of the way in and then changed the stbd racor fuel filter – def a lot of black areas. Cruised around various spots over 2 days on the island with no power issues. Great – must be filter. Not so fast.. We leave to head home. On our way for about 45 minutes and then sure enough, port side starts with the power losses. I shut her down to change the port side filter. It wasn’t terrible, as I have seen worse come out. New filter, top off the bowl with fresh fuel, new o-rings, lubed and tightened up. Start her up and get back underway. Problem persists!!! This when I put my wife at the helm and I went into the ER to take the video. Does this seems to be normal racor operation? They both appear to be similar. We continue fighting with this for about 10 minutes before I bring her back to idle on both, then I go to the fuel manifold and flip the selector over to the other tank. Boom- all is good, right out of the pocket and cruised the rest of way home without a hiccup.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/wUtzcrpzVgge3DoN7

So, could the issue still be old fuel in the tanks – I am still picking up crud. The lines to the manifold, the racor units? Are those racor gauges that replace the T handle worth adding? I have been thinking that I just need to work thru more fuel treatment and filters, but the racor operation and fuel manifold thing are throwing me off. My video shows the racor pretty full during a power drop (about 40 secs in). Thanks in advance.

Can you tell me specifically how you are mixing and adding the additives and in what quantity. I don't doubt what you are doing, it is just that most of us don't have these problems when using the procedure in the Diesel Management Article and I want to see if I can help………

Frank

 

[Boca_Vincent]

Thank you all for the helpful responses.

The check ball prevents fuel from returning to the tank when the engine isn't running. Someone probably removed it due to it clogging up. If this filter is installed below the fuel tank level you really don't need the check ball assembly.

I believe the filter to be just above or at the top of the fuel tank levels. I can change the filters without turning off the fuel supply. With the engines off, the filters normally sit with about the same levels as shown in the video.

If I were you, in addition to the above advice, I would consider rebuilding the filter assemblies. I did mine a couple of years ago and here are more gaskets in there than you might think. Parker Hannifin sells rebuild packs tailored for the model which have everything you need.

Early on I did remove both filter units one at a time, took them to my garage bench to disassemble and clean - with the help of this guide
http://www.marshmarine.net/index_14.htm
and used this kit
https://www.racorstore.com/racor-rk-15211-seal-service-kit-500.html
They were VERY fouled with black crud and slime. That's when I found that there were no check balls in either. I may need to clean them again - will inspect closer this weekend.

Can you tell me specifically how you are mixing and adding the additives and in what quantity. I don't doubt what you are doing, it is just that most of us don't have these problems when using the procedure in the Diesel Management Article and I want to see if I can help………

Frank

So I normally would take on fuel at 120 gallon intervals, 60 in each tank. I do this because the 2 Stanadyne formulas come packaged in that ratio (16oz/ 60 gal & 16/125gal). Also add 3 oz of the Bio Kleen (have to eyeball that one). I have been getting fuel delivered lately and add the product after delivery since I am not there at the time.
Also, at the very beginning of my ownership I did one shock treatment of the diesel 911.

I ordered the vac gauges. Hopefully they come in before the holiday weekend so I can get some test runs in.
I understand that I may need to have the tanks cleaned, but first I want to identify that the racors are operating as they should in addition to what my3sons noted.

 

[ttmott]

A couple of things and I'm sure FW will also comment.
I had a significant algae problem in my 400DA to the point it plugged up one of the fuel siphon tubes.
I corrected it three ways - the first shocking using 4X the normal of BioBor JF then fuel polishing and changing Racor elements for a period of time. It corrected the issue. Obviously when it was all cleaned up I rebuilt the filters.

The other thing is to disconnect the hose on the inlet of the Racor filter and using compressed air blow back to the tank to clear anything on the inlet of the suction tube.

Your problem is there is water in the fuel tank and that needs to be absorbed in solution as the first thing to get the mess corrected.

 

[fwebster]

Vince,

Here are some ideas that I have used with success in off road equipment in Tennessee. I am not a contractor but I buy and sell smaller dozers, loaders, backhoes, skid steers and farm tractors, usually during the winter. …..

First, Tom is right. The suction tube in the fuel tank is a source of sludge in a fuel system. In the tanks Sea Ray uses, the bottom of the suction tube has a screen in it. You should be able to blow any blockage out of the suction tube with low pressure compressed air. Too much pressure and you can blow the screen out and it will be be laying in the bottom of tank. I do this with a regulator on the air hose and start with about 10 psi then slowly increase pressure from there. Remove the fuel supply line from the Racor to introduce air into the tank.

Second, you said you shocked the tanks wirth Diesel 911. Diesel 911 is a product we are using in this situation to break up the microbial chains of crud so they will pass thru the Racors without blocking the fuel flow. If you did not shock the tanks with a good biocide like Biobor JF or Power Service Bio-Kleen first, then you didn't kill the microbial growth in the tanks. In this order, the next time you buy fuel or have it delivered, add the biocide in shock quantity for the capacity of your tanks, add one 80oz jug of Diesel 9-1-1 to each tank, add a general diesel additive like Power service Diesel-Kleen+Cetane Boost (to increase cetane, absorb moisture, prevent sticking injectors etc. If you are using Stanadyne Lubricity Additive, then add it now too. All these additives can be added at the same time but ADD THEM BEFORE FILLING THE TANKS WITH FRESH DIESEL DUEL, NOT AFTER. Adding the fuel after adding the additives will allow the new diesel fuel to stir up the additives and get them mixed in the fuel in the tanks better as it enters the fuel tanks than addiing the additives after the fuel.

Third, steps 1 & 2 above should cause the microbial growth and sludge in the fuel tanks to break up and dislodge from the tank walls and bottom where it will pass into the primary filters, your Racors as you run the boat. This could block several sets of Racors so order a case of 30 micron Racor filters to keep onboard and get about 4 extra Caterpillar hi-efficiency spin on filters to Carry onboard. Also, carry about 1.5 gal of clean fresh diesel fuel in a container onboard. You have to manually fill the Racors to the brim after changing Racor filters. Don't change them until they cause the engine rpms to reduce to about 1800 rpm. At that point shut down the engine from the switch on the dash to avoid letting the engine ingest air into the fuel system. 3116's are bitch to purge and you need to avoid having to do that.

If the sludge in the tanks can be cleared chemically, the above procedure will do it. If it doesn't, then try it again from the beginning. A few jugs of 9-1–1 and some biocide and other additives will be cheaper than hiring a fuel polisher to come and filter all the fuel on the boat.

I hope the above helps…let me know how it works.


Frank

 

[Boca_Vincent]

Tom & Frank – Thanks again, and for spelling it out clearly. One thing I never did was a shock treatment with Biobor or Bio-Kleen. I thought the 911 covered that. I will pick up all the additives this weekend. I already added a case of 30 mic filters to my T handle vac gauge order placed yesterday. Always carry fresh clean diesel and I top off the filter canister, wait to let them soak and continue to add, but when I run the engines they do get sucked down as shown.
I’m with you on getting this cleared up chemically. I did the whole fuel polish/ tank scrub thing with my last boat. I remember it wasn’t cheap back then.
And for the heads up about the air pressure, I would have blasted like 100PSI in there thinking ‘more power = better clean’ Ha! Pretty sure I can get my compressor down low, otherwise I’ll rig something on the low pressure line of my scuba reg.
I’m sure this will take some time to work thru but I’ll keep you updated on any progress.

 

[Woody]

FWIW...
I have used this to clean the Racor units, 3M 8880. After draining them you can stick the plastic straw up through the drain hole directing the spray to dislodge/flush out remaining crud. Works good.

I never add fuel without additives including biocide. I've two tanks, total 320gal. When I need 200 or more gals at a fill I just throw in a shock doseage of biocide. The end result is I'm always maintaining a mix that's at least maintenance level doseage or above. Even though I do that I never have pinkish colored filters, they're always grey to darker grey but there is nothing slimy or stringy.