Sealing the seams on canvas

JHornsby3

Well-Known Member
Nov 10, 2020
1,392
Sheridan Oregon
Boat Info
"Steele'y Tutz"
1992 300 Sundancer
Engines
Twin 4.3L W/Alpha One Gen II
Hey all,

I have cleaned and waterproofed the canvas on our 300DA. Canvas is all original and in great shape for it's age. But there is one thing that has been bugging me the whole time we have owned her. What to do with these leaking seams. I don't want to ruin the stitching. And when I put the water proofer on, I put it on heavyish. But these seams just keep leaking.

Living in the PNW has it's advantages (even though I'm still trying to find them). But all this rain is not one of them.

I would like to get something on them to stop the dripping and get things dried out a bit.

Thanks.
 
Not sure what you are going to find that will stick to sunbrella.

Your leaking seams are due to the fabricator not using a basting tape when fabricating. Not only does the basting tape help hold parts together for sewing but it will also help keep seams waterproof.
 
These are the factory (Great Lakes Boat Top) canvases. And the roof sections are Sunbrella the sides are just two pieces of cloth sewn together.
 
So a funny thing just happened. I had emailed Great Lakes Boat Top about a missing #8 zipper slide/pull. They just called me to inquire about that. I asked them about sealing the seams and what to use. So they are throwing a tube of seam sealer in the package with the zipper slide. For free. Now that is some good customer service, right there.
 
I've used tent seam sealer with great success.

I've considered using bees wax on the front isenglass smiley zipper seams
 
I had thought about that. But the last stuff I got was pretty spendy and left a nasty line on the material. Looked like a kids shirt after wiping their boogers on it. It worked. I used it on an easy up canopy and the sealer lasted for almost 20 years. Well until the ice storm we had crushed the frame.

I was thinking of clear 100% silicon and putting it on using a Q Tip or something of the likes. Just to keep it clean looking.

I will report back on what they send and how it works. I mean, this is Oregon. I'm sure it will rain tomorrow as well.
 
images

This is the best stuff most of us use around me
 
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Have seen silicone caulk thinned with paint thinner to make seam sealer. Works well, but tends to be visible if not super careful.
 
images

This is the best stuff most of us use around me

I will see what the factory sends me.

I have to say, after the long wet winter then the week and a half of 90* temps, I'm done with all this rain we have been getting. And it looks like it's here for a while. About to just head out and let the forward movement take care of the rain seeping through the seams.
 
I run a thinner needle and basting tape when fabricating. I have not had leaking, but the seam sealant should work.
 
Did you try CBD? It apparently fixes everything.

Just another legal drug. They passed all drugs here. Crack, meth, herroin and the rest. They are all legal in oregon now. They say you just need a Dr's script and you can use and carry all you want. That is like the Medical pot cards. Go to the doctor and they will write a script for the right amount of money. Now they are doing it for crack and meth. Living in the west coast taint is entertaining sometimes. And sometimes we are bordering that big hole and it blows.o_O
 
I run a thinner needle and basting tape when fabricating. I have not had leaking, but the seam sealant should work.

Seam sealant is just a temporary fix at best. Maybe some have had better success with it, but here with the hot sun it doesn't last very long.

As you said, fabrication makes a difference.
 
The OP indicated that this was all original. For a 1992 300 Sundancer I would think the threads are somewhat worn and the seam holes have been stretched over time. Even if there was bastubg I would think at this point very little should be blamed on original fabrication and actually complimented for lasting this long.

-Kevin
 
The OP indicated that this was all original. For a 1992 300 Sundancer I would think the threads are somewhat worn and the seam holes have been stretched over time. Even if there was bastubg I would think at this point very little should be blamed on original fabrication and actually complimented for lasting this long.

-Kevin

I was not meaning to say anything about the manufacturing. I for one am happy to see it has lasted this long. More so with the lack of maint the previous owner had done to the boat in the 8 years he owned it.

The only manufacturing issues I can see with the whole set of fabrics is the missed seams on the boots. One has a 6" seam that was miss stitched and the main has a 3" seam. And the top should have gone over the sides a few more inches to keep the blowing water from coming in the openings. All very minor for what it is.

Other than that, there is two spots of pine pitch and one ball point pen tip sized hole over the helm. The stitching is about 98% good. Otherwise I would have broke out my needles and thread and stitched them up.

I'm happy with the top. This weather just sucks.
 
Chiming in. Had same problem last year, 91 original main top, seams were pulling apart from years long stretching. Had new canvas done this winter. $1400, but bone dry underneath and dont regret spending the money. After 30 years, it was done. You can only patch/bandaid so long.
 
Had the front bimini and cover done 24 months ago. Time for the aft. Full time, full length bimini. I've grown up in the sun, paid the price, and welcome the shade. first bends are in place.
tubing for the aft bimini.jpeg
arch to stern.jpeg
 

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