Stainless Thru Hulls

dtfeld

Water Contrails
GOLD Sponsor
Jun 5, 2016
5,518
Milton, GA
Boat Info
410 Sundancer
2001
12" Axiom and 9" Axiom+ MFD
Engines
Cat 3126 V-Drives
I'm going to start replacing the nylon through hulls with stainless steel as I gain access while doing other projects. I've already replaced the thru hulls on the AC units with the SeaChoice Mega Flow dripless hoping to reduce hull staining from water running down the hull side. They are OK. Dripless is accurate, they are not "dripfree".

Now I'm looking to replace the sump pump and sink outlets that are behind the fridge while its out. Do I go with brand name at higher cost or Chinese for about 1/2 the cost? None of these fitting are below the water line, mostly pump and drain outlets. There are quite a few so the $$ adds up. Probably several hundred over all.

Example 1 1/2 Barb

Defender has Groco for $56 each Amazon has Keehui for $31

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upload_2023-1-17_12-12-49.png
 
I buy a lot of tool steel from China ….. I have a metallurgy study done here in the US….. you just have to be careful some bad shit comes out of China
 
Opinions will vary, of course, and I can understand why you're asking. If it was me, I would go with a "known good" brand. Who knows what the Chinese-made one is actually made out of or the material quality. This should be the last time you ever have to replace it if you use a good one. The cheaper one might very well last a long, long time - but I'd rather not take the chance - especially since this isn't a 5 minute fix. If you end having to replace it 5 years from now, you're now into this for more money in the long run and twice as much labor.

Plus... I "think" Groco is still made in the USA?

That's one opinion :)
 
Don’t buy the Chinese crap. It’s not the same. Unless you enjoy doing this project again.
 
One would think 316 SS is, well good and proper 316 SS.

When it comes to things like thru-hulls and raw water fittings, I still spend the extra to be able to sleep better and not have any "accidents" over saving a few dollars. Also I am partial to Groco. I love their products.
 
Never do I want to do the same job twice, spend the money and get the better product. Groco seems to be the better product here.
 
I did the same project on my 290. I used all Attwood stainless thru-hulls, I believe I got them all from Wholesale Marine. Felt like it made a nice upgrade..
Boot Stripes Replaced (4).JPEG Boot Stripes Replaced (6).JPEG
 
Love the look of these, it’s just one of those projects that only obsessive boat owners will really appreciate because we know how quickly the cost adds up. I considered it last year and it was well over $500 for them
 
I'm thinking more in the line of required MX. The button head popped of a couple of mine, so in this environment, the don't last forever...nothing does.

Im going to pick a few as the become accessible.
 
I'm thinking more in the line of required MX. The button head popped of a couple of mine, so in this environment, the don't last forever...nothing does.

Im going to pick a few as the become accessible.

Yeah that can be an issue if they're over tightened when they were installed. That isn't an issue with SS. Definitely the way to go. Good luck with this project.
 
I'm thinking more in the line of required MX. The button head popped of a couple of mine, so in this environment, the don't last forever...nothing does.

Im going to pick a few as the become accessible.

The one thing you may need to do when replacing these is to connect the fitting to the bonding system.
 
Not to take the thread a different direction, but what is your goal? Previous owner of my boat installed two to three inch plastic tubes in them so they don't drip on the hall, I'm pretty happy with the solution.
 
The one thing you may need to do when replacing these is to connect the fitting to the bonding system.

This is a good point. @ttmott Curious what's your take?

I connected the air conditioner thru hulls because they are in a constant contact with the sea/raw water, thus they would be subject to galvanic corrosion.

The drains, are not in contact with sea/raw water ever, so I don't think that is required or necessary. Its certainly easy enough to bond them as they go in.
 
Not to take the thread a different direction, but what is your goal? Previous owner of my boat installed two to three inch plastic tubes in them so they don't drip on the hall, I'm pretty happy with the solution.
Boat Bling!!! Now you gotta do it too!!


Seriously, the nylon ones are original, and are getting brittle (I assume from 20+ years in salt/sun). I've had one or two of the mushroom heads pop off, specifically as I was jamming a small tube in to reduce the drip down the side.

If Im spending the time to replace, I am going SS as they look better.
 

I used those for my AC outlets. They are pretty good. Same price as the non dripless for that size, so that may be what I go with.

One thing I wave to do is make sure the shanks are the same diameter. I don't want to be enlarging or reducing the hole already in the boat. I should be a simple matter of removing the old one, cleaning up the hole and re-bedding the new.
 
Boat Bling!!! Now you gotta do it too!!


Seriously, the nylon ones are original, and are getting brittle (I assume from 20+ years in salt/sun). I've had one or two of the mushroom heads pop off, specifically as I was jamming a small tube in to reduce the drip down the side.

If I spending the time to replace, I am going SS as they look better.
Oh geez, more projects and things to spend money on. I like it.
 

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