Enlarging is easy... it's making it smaller that takes a little more time
Stainless Thru Hulls
- Thread starter dtfeld
- Start date
If raw water flows through them and they are metallic then bond them for sure. It's good practice to bond all metals. The handrails on your boat are bonded.
- Jun 5, 2016
- 5,553
- Boat Info
- 410 Sundancer
2001
12" Axiom and 9" Axiom+ MFD
- Engines
- Cat 3126 V-Drives
- Jun 5, 2016
- 5,553
- Boat Info
- 410 Sundancer
2001
12" Axiom and 9" Axiom+ MFD
- Engines
- Cat 3126 V-Drives
Hopefully I don't have to do either. I remember one of the plastic ones was replaced on an emergency basis, and to get the exact one that fit require a trip to West marine instead of the local ships store.Enlarging is easy... it's making it smaller that takes a little more time
I think the 380 group has a list of required fitting that are the correct size. So hopefully this is one job where measuring prevents a lot of excess work.
I've seen some with a bonding screw and some without. Possibly you could tap a hole in one of the nut flats for an 8-32 screw if none exists.
Skybolt
Well-Known Member
- Nov 11, 2014
- 6,429
- Boat Info
- Reel Nauti
460 EC
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- Detroit 6v92TA
(Low profile's)
Alison Gears
Westerbeke
12.5kw Genset
The original Groco picture has the screw in it. Might want to go that route.
techmitch
Well-Known Member
- May 1, 2008
- 8,328
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- 1999 270 DA
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- Twin 4.3s W/Alpa I Gen II's
Yep, and so does the Seachoice that Grant posted.
Skybolt
Well-Known Member
- Nov 11, 2014
- 6,429
- Boat Info
- Reel Nauti
460 EC
- Engines
- Detroit 6v92TA
(Low profile's)
Alison Gears
Westerbeke
12.5kw Genset
Ah, nice I missed that little bugger. I really like this TH's and am considering swapping out a few with those.
boatrboy
Well-Known Member
So if it’s above the waterline is the infamous “Butyl tape” good for sealing these?
- Jun 5, 2016
- 5,553
- Boat Info
- 410 Sundancer
2001
12" Axiom and 9" Axiom+ MFD
- Engines
- Cat 3126 V-Drives
I think these will go in with a bead of good silicone
- Dec 31, 2006
- 2,819
- Boat Info
- H2O Therapy
2006 Sundancer 48
Novurania 430DL
HighField 340-FCT
Yamaha EX-R
Raymarine
PADI DM
- Engines
- Cummins QSC 540's
No streaks at all on the hull. Love them.
- Jun 5, 2016
- 5,553
- Boat Info
- 410 Sundancer
2001
12" Axiom and 9" Axiom+ MFD
- Engines
- Cat 3126 V-Drives
When I do the sinks, I'll use the Sea Choice dripless. Big fan. They are pretty good (not perfect) for the Air conditioner outlets. I think they will work better for the sink drains. But that's another project.
I want to get the 4 buried behind the fridge switched out as they are some of the hardest to access normally, but pretty easy with the fridge and cabinet out.
I ordered 2 HTH-750-S and a HTH-1000-S. The hard part is making sure all the dimensions are correct.
On the Sea Ray 410 Part List, the 2 sump hoses are listed as 3/4" and the threaded shank measured right at 1", making the thread 3/4" NPS, hence the HTH-750-S
I'm hoping the other is 1" NPS with a 1" hose. The other option was 1 1/8". I guessed looking at it in the boat. I choose the HTH-1000-S for this one.
We Shall see if I guessed correctly!
I want to get the 4 buried behind the fridge switched out as they are some of the hardest to access normally, but pretty easy with the fridge and cabinet out.
I ordered 2 HTH-750-S and a HTH-1000-S. The hard part is making sure all the dimensions are correct.
On the Sea Ray 410 Part List, the 2 sump hoses are listed as 3/4" and the threaded shank measured right at 1", making the thread 3/4" NPS, hence the HTH-750-S
I'm hoping the other is 1" NPS with a 1" hose. The other option was 1 1/8". I guessed looking at it in the boat. I choose the HTH-1000-S for this one.
We Shall see if I guessed correctly!
sbw1
Well-Known Member
- Oct 10, 2006
- 8,185
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- This is listed in my signature
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- This is listed in my signature
Another vote against the Chinese through hulls. You really have no idea what they are made of regardless of the claims.
boatrboy
Well-Known Member
That looks like it would really help on my boat as the blue hull stains and drives me nuts.
midexp
Active Member
- Oct 5, 2016
- 423
- Boat Info
- 1999 40' Sundancer
- Engines
- 454 merc
I think this is a great upgrade. Please let us know how this comes out. Can you access all of them? And I thought I read somewhere Frank Webster said getting the old ones out was a huge PAIN!
Riptide III
3D
- Dec 8, 2007
- 1,139
- Boat Info
- 1997 Sea Ray 400DA
Cat 3116 TA
1994 Sea Ray Laguna CC 250 Tohatsu
- Engines
- :
Great upgrade. I have replaced all with the exception of the air conditioners. It looks so much better than the cheep plastic. I keep toying with the idea of eliminating all of them and running a fiberglass tube down the length of the inside of the hull and having them all come out at the stern.
- Jun 5, 2016
- 5,553
- Boat Info
- 410 Sundancer
2001
12" Axiom and 9" Axiom+ MFD
- Engines
- Cat 3126 V-Drives
All parts in-house. Groco thru hull do in fact have a screw for bonding, so that’s a plus. Also ordered the dripper guards for these.
I’ll get these installed next week.
I’ll get these installed next week.
I noticed the galley drain is also very accessible with the fridge out, are you doing that one too? I can’t recall but I think it’s also accessible with the access panel under the counter top removed
- Jun 5, 2016
- 5,553
- Boat Info
- 410 Sundancer
2001
12" Axiom and 9" Axiom+ MFD
- Engines
- Cat 3126 V-Drives
I’m not doing sink drains right now. The main sink is easily accessible via the panel as you point out, so I’ll leave that for another day. It’s just the 3 behind the fridge. I think they are the most difficult to access, so while I’m in there…
Good pick on the Groco's, David!
In my opinion? I'd skip those drip guards. I can see them being a possible problem in the future. If they break, the only way to repair is to go through this whole process again - and they will get brittle over time from the UV. Plus, there's a possibility that it breaks off and falls out completely, leaving the thru-hull "loose fitting" and allowing water to penetrate before it's fixed/resealed/tightened.
Instead, go with the tried and true method of just jamming a short length of hose inside the hole. If that falls out, it doesn't cause any issues.
In my opinion? I'd skip those drip guards. I can see them being a possible problem in the future. If they break, the only way to repair is to go through this whole process again - and they will get brittle over time from the UV. Plus, there's a possibility that it breaks off and falls out completely, leaving the thru-hull "loose fitting" and allowing water to penetrate before it's fixed/resealed/tightened.
Instead, go with the tried and true method of just jamming a short length of hose inside the hole. If that falls out, it doesn't cause any issues.
