Stainless Thru Hulls

Lazy Daze said:
Good pick on the Groco's, David!

In my opinion? I'd skip those drip guards. I can see them being a possible problem in the future. If they break, the only way to repair is to go through this whole process again - and they will get brittle over time from the UV. Plus, there's a possibility that it breaks off and falls out completely, leaving the thru-hull "loose fitting" and allowing water to penetrate before it's fixed/resealed/tightened.

Instead, go with the tried and true method of just jamming a short length of hose inside the hole. If that falls out, it doesn't cause any issues.
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I thought the same thing. The other option is the stick on version, but longevity is and issue.

I think your right and I will probably skip these and just jam a small section of tube in as you describe.
 
dtfeld said:
I thought the same thing. The other option is the stick on version, but longevity is and issue.

I think your right and I will probably skip these and just jam a small section of tube in as you describe.
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Fancy is nice, but sometimes simple is good! :)
 
FWIW...when i replaced the plastic thru hulls on my 410DA I used the pic below as my inspiration (it's a stainless marine generator exhaust fitting), and welded a stainless tube inside it with about 5/8" sticking out similar to what so many do with the with the clear hoses. Just welded it on the back right where the thread the stops. No stains, and it looked great. Only pic I could find was from a distance that shows the forward, and salon a/c thru hulls and this was end of August.

41QHodXO25L._AC_SY350_.jpg

04A242CB-3D65-4158-9E64-D3B9EA8E6482_1_201_a.jpeg
 
dtfeld said:
I thought the same thing. The other option is the stick on version, but longevity is and issue.

I think your right and I will probably skip these and just jam a small section of tube in as you describe.
Click to expand...

I’ve had dripper guard stick ons for 3 years, still holding strong. Sun isn’t as intense up here but give them a try they might last a while
 
Strecker25 said:
I’ve had dripper guard stick ons for 3 years, still holding strong. Sun isn’t as intense up here but give them a try they might last a while
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Do you have the stick on or are yours installed under the head of the thru hull?

The issue with these is if they fail, you have a loose thru hull that will need to be reset.
 
Had bad rust stains below ac and galley sink thru hulls. Rubbed out the stains and applied strips of 3 M clear bra film below the thru hulls down to the waterline. (after reading a suggestion about it on CSR about 4 years ago) Can’t see it when the boat is in the water. No more stains and it has held up very well.
 
Sgrochow said:
Had bad rust stains below ac and galley sink thru hulls. Rubbed out the stains and applied strips of 3 M clear bra film below the thru hulls down to the waterline. (after reading a suggestion about it on CSR about 4 years ago) Can’t see it when the boat is in the water. No more stains and it has held up very well.
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Thats a good idea as well. $15 for a lifetime supply
 
So is ocgrants option in post 12 (and 31) easier than all of these suggestions? Just curious as it just so happens I have one of my sink through hull out now….
 
boatrboy said:
So is ocgrants option in post 12 (and 31) easier than all of these suggestions? Just curious as it just so happens I have one of my sink through hull out now….
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I have several of those SeaChoice Dripless and yes for the sinks, I think they will work very well. I already have 3 of the smaller versions on the AC discharges and I like them alot.
 
Well I attempted to get the thru hulls installed, but of course, its not that easy!!!

The Groco THT are just slightly larger on the outside diameter and will need the hole enlarged, and of course I ordered one of them too small. Additionally I decided not to install the Dripper Guard pro worrying that they will fall off and leave a loose thru hull.

In trying to return the dripper Guard Pro's, the owner of Dripper Guard called me, and I've decided to try their Thru Hulls. They are 316L stainless, have a screw for bonding and, and have a replaceable rubber dripper guard that "snaps in place and is replaceable without having a loose thru hull. They are about the same price as the grocos and the company is in Knoxville TN. Very easy to deal with.

Unfortunately, I'm going to have to enlarge the hole to accommodate these and the dripper guard part is only available in Black, but should be available in white soon.

For this application, I need 2x 3/4" barb and a 1-1/8".

upload_2023-2-2_9-13-27.png
 
That looks like a nice solution - and it's nice to hear it's a USA company, too.

Do you have a Dremel? With the sanding drum bit, it will be very easy to slightly enlarge that hole. If you don't have a Dremel... you should. Plus, you "need" this tool for the job so unfortunately you "have" to buy it... or at least that's the way you present it to your wife ;)
 
Lazy Daze said:
That looks like a nice solution - and it's nice to hear it's a USA company, too.

Do you have a Dremel? With the sanding drum bit, it will be very easy to slightly enlarge that hole. If you don't have a Dremel... you should. Plus, you "need" this tool for the job so unfortunately you "have" to buy it... or at least that's the way you present it to your wife ;)
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These will make quick work of it and I'm sure you already have a drill.
https://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-quick-change-sanding-drum-set-35455.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/80-grit-sanding-sleeves-6-piece-60605.html
 
I have a dremel...just got a new cordless one. That will make it easier to drop in the lake!
Also have a full set of hole saws...this shouldn't be too hard.

Next question, should I replace the hoses?
 
dtfeld said:
I have a dremel...just got a new cordless one. That will make it easier to drop in the lake!
Also have a full set of hole saws...this shouldn't be too hard.

Next question, should I replace the hoses?
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You won't be able to use a hole saw since there's already a hole (no guide hold being drilled) - unless you first glue a piece of wood to the inside of the hull - but obviously that's not practical. You'll do fine with the Dremel. Put a couple key floats on it! :)

If you really want to get fancy, you can use a sharp pencil to first trace the thru-hull - but it'll be easy enough to just sand a little off at a time and keep test fitting. Tip... don't go for a "perfect" fit - a tiny bit loose is good.
 
Just have to make a guide for the existing hole. Two of the holes have to be much larger, so sanding isn't going to get the job done.

For small adjustments, sanding will be fine, and also good to chamfer the gel coat.

Example.



Examople
upload_2023-2-2_20-34-25.png
 
Gotcha - I thought there was only a fraction of an inch difference.

I like that guide trick. Never thought of that! That sounds easier than a sideways cutting bit, too.
 
dtfeld said:
Just have to make a guide for the existing hole. Two of the holes have to be much larger, so sanding isn't going to get the job done.

For small adjustments, sanding will be fine, and also good to chamfer the gel coat.

Example.



ExamopleView attachment 139613
Click to expand...

In case you go this route, Spyder brand hole saws enable you to use two hole saws simultaneously on the same arbor in order to enlarge an existing hole that is too small. They are available in store at Lowe’s, online at Amazon.
 
dtfeld said:
Just have to make a guide for the existing hole. Two of the holes have to be much larger, so sanding isn't going to get the job done.

For small adjustments, sanding will be fine, and also good to chamfer the gel coat.

Example.



ExamopleView attachment 139613
Click to expand...

I have done this more than a few times to enlarge a hole and it works perfectly.

Bennett
 
Holesaws - be very careful as they will chip out the gelcoat if going from the inside to outside of the hull.
Always run a hole saw in reverse from the gelcoat side to score the gelcoat before cutting.
I had to enlarge the speaker holes last week when I replaced a pair of speakers in the cockpit - I used a rotary rasp in a drill and it cut easily rapidly. Then a sanding drum to smooth out the gelcoat edges to prevent cracking - probably overkill but that's me....
 
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