Swim Platform Hydraulic and Controls Expert.

FootballFan said:
couple of thoughts. Seems like I remember when filling with fluid, the manual says to fill within an inch of the top, but not all the way up. I may be mistaken, but GHS has manuals on their website.

I wonder if you got air in the system when the fluid got low.

Finally - why did the fluid get low? I get it - no apparent leaks. Seems like 24oz is a lot of fluid for that system. I have had a couple of these, fluid getting low was never a problem unless something was leaking.
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You are correct, should be one inch below filler neck
If just air in system my printed manual says running platform down and up will purge it. Complete bleeding if fluid gets contaminated is much more complicated and is covered online.
I cannot find any leak inside and there were outside however the thru hull fittings are not visible from inside the boat.
The cylinders hold more fluid than the resovour, complete purge can take upto five gallons?
 
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No corrosion on switch. I did find a bad 3Amp fuse on the hot side of the solenoid that I believe leads up to (powers) the switch. They look like automotive blade fuzes but they are not see thru. Can they be replaced with auto fuzes or are they different internally. If this is not a problem can anybody tell me what type of rocker switch it is at the transom is it a double pole double throw?
 
Riptide III said:
They look like automotive blade fuzes but they are not see thru. Can they be replaced with auto fuzes or are they different internally.
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Yes. One is ATO and the other is ATC. Both typical automotive fuses. I forget which is which, but the specs are mostly the same except for the see-thru part.

-Chris
 
GHS hydraulics shot?
Last year unit worked fine, this year wont go up or down. Went through the manuals check list but for reversing the control box lead as both up and down green leds light, motor runs for both directions, and pressure guage reads zero while motor runs. Manual says "replace complete pump unit." Can it be repaired and is the complete pump unit the whole thing or just box like unit over the motor?
 
I called tnt today. They have the rebuild kits for the old 6 cylinder systems. They are @150ea.
they see no problem in having a person rebuild them who has done hydraulic cylinders.
 
I need a little help. I have a 2001 460 Sundancer with a GHS platform. What Does the momentary rocker switch at the helm energize? There is power at the switch and tests good. There is power at the battery connection by hydraulic unit in the bilge, but nothing happens
 
Neptune said:
I need a little help. I have a 2001 460 Sundancer with a GHS platform. What Does the momentary rocker switch at the helm energize? There is power at the switch and tests good. There is power at the battery connection by hydraulic unit in the bilge, but nothing happens
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There's an inline heavy duty fuse in our system, and then there are several blade fuses in our control box.

The rocker switch activates the main control box circuitry (aka provides power to the unit, assuming the HD fuse isn't tripping) and then actual up/down control is either by handheld or remote controllers.

The GHS site has manuals, pics, etc. so you can match their info to your system.

GHS customer service has been good.

-Chris
 
Riptide III said:
No corrosion on switch. I did find a bad 3Amp fuse on the hot side of the solenoid that I believe leads up to (powers) the switch. They look like automotive blade fuzes but they are not see thru. Can they be replaced with auto fuzes or are they different internally. If this is not a problem can anybody tell me what type of rocker switch it is at the transom is it a double pole double throw?
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I loved your picture!!!
 
Neptune said:
I need a little help. I have a 2001 460 Sundancer with a GHS platform. What Does the momentary rocker switch at the helm energize? There is power at the switch and tests good. There is power at the battery connection by hydraulic unit in the bilge, but nothing happens
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The Rocker switch remotely operates a Battery Disconnect Relay. It is the Relay on the hydraulic unit that you connect you (+) cable to from your House Batteries. The relay mechanically latches with a momentary electrical pulse. The switch changes the Polarity of the pulse that goes to the relay via the Blue/WH stripe and White/BL stripe wires. They are the small 3/8" nut connectors on the front of the relay. When you push the rocker switch you should hear a click from the relay on the hydraulic unit and the LED in the switch should light up depending which way you pushed it. When the LED is on the hydraulic unit has power. To check the operation of the relay, check the voltage on the opposited side of the relay from the battery input. Operated the switch and see if you get a voltage reading. If not, check all you fuses. 5 Amp ATC fuses are as large as you should need if you are running Diesel engines. If you are running Gas Engines Let me know and I can supply you with spark arrestor fuses. Let me know how you make out.
 
ranger58sb said:
There's an inline heavy duty fuse in our system, and then there are several blade fuses in our control box.

The rocker switch activates the main control box circuitry (aka provides power to the unit, assuming the HD fuse isn't tripping) and then actual up/down control is either by handheld or remote controllers.

The GHS site has manuals, pics, etc. so you can match their info to your system.

GHS customer service has been good.

-Chris
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If you don't find what your looking for or your still in a bind let me know. Best number to get me is my Cell. Send me a test because I don't answer no name calls. Cell (727) 729-1256 Frank
 
Unwrapped the boat today and tried to exercise the swim platform. Noticed that both legs are seriously out of sync on the release and on the relatch when bringing it back up so much so that the the platform hits the rubrail of the boat before the other side latches. It was out by about 8 inches. I ran it up and down several times till I got them close enough to secure. Now one side is about 2 inches out while the others is about 1/2 inch from touching the hull. Planning on calling GHS tomorrow but wanted to see if anyone else has run into this unbalanced performance. I’ve seen them slightly out of sync but not to the point where one touches the hull. Is there some kind of balancing valve that can be adjusted/cleaned?
 
Irie308 said:
Unwrapped the boat today and tried to exercise the swim platform. Noticed that both legs are seriously out of sync on the release and on the relatch when bringing it back up so much so that the the platform hits the rubrail of the boat before the other side latches. It was out by about 8 inches. I ran it up and down several times till I got them close enough to secure. Now one side is about 2 inches out while the others is about 1/2 inch from touching the hull. Planning on calling GHS tomorrow but wanted to see if anyone else has run into this unbalanced performance. I’ve seen them slightly out of sync but not to the point where one touches the hull. Is there some kind of balancing valve that can be adjusted/cleaned?
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Did you confirm that the hydraulic fluid reservoir is full?
 
Irie308 said:
Welcome aboard! I have many questions but I’ll start with this. I’ve often questioned the position of our locking mechanism(not sure of the technical name). It’s a GHS lift. Should I be looking to replace these? They don’t seem to be marking contact. I don’t see much if any play in the platform in the locked position. But this looks questionable to me.
View attachment 112080 View attachment 112081
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Looks like you might want to try scaping the marine growth off of the locking cylinder rod with a piece of Aluminum or Brass so the rod retracts back inside all the way putting the locking hook in the correct position. If that does not work then I would recommend that you send them in for rebuild. We have all the seals and other consumables in stock. $300 plus freight for the pair to be refurbished proving there are no broken internal hard parts. If there is I would suspect it would just be one of the springs. Not an expensive fix.
 
NorCalRobert said:
Did you confirm that the hydraulic fluid reservoir is full?
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I believe it is full not sure what the "full level" is but its where i generally keep it. Will confirm with ghs as to the full mark.
 
Hydraulicpro said:
Looks like you might want to try scaping the marine growth off of the locking cylinder rod with a piece of Aluminum or Brass so the rod retracts back inside all the way putting the locking hook in the correct position. If that does not work then I would recommend that you send them in for rebuild. We have all the seals and other consumables in stock. $300 plus freight for the pair to be refurbished proving there are no broken internal hard parts. If there is I would suspect it would just be one of the springs. Not an expensive fix.
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yup , those were replaced last season with brand new locking cylinders. Lift worked great all last season and i put it away in perfect working order.
 
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