System Monitor replacement for mechanical engines

For old school has anyone used or looked into alarms be Borel engeneering?



I have the exhaust temp alarms also. Simple install. I put them on about 4 years ago when I replaced my old exhaust hoses from the mixer. I had the starboard side throw an alarm a couple of years ago while idling in a no wake zone. I shut down and was on my way into the engine room when my wife called out that a plastic bag had just floated out from under the boat. I assumed that was it because everything was fine after that. The engine temp never moved on the gauge and the 200 degree alarm switches that I have installed in the coolant passages of the exhaust manifolds didn't trigger, so now I consider the Borels to be the "early warning system". Wouldn't be without them.
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I have them also. Simple install. I put them on about 4 years ago when I replaced my old exhaust hoses from the mixer. I had the starboard side throw an alarm a couple of years ago while idling in a no wake zone. I shut down and was on my way into the engine room when my wife called out that a plastic bag had just floated out from under the boat. I assumed that was it because everything was fine after that. The engine temp never moved on the gauge and the 200 degree alarm switches that I have installed in the coolant passages of the exhaust manifolds didn't trigger, so now I consider the Borels to be the "early warning system". Wouldn't be without them.
My new alarm panel has expansion space for an exhaust alarm. I plan to add these. Is 200 the temp you got Mark?
 
My new alarm panel has expansion space for an exhaust alarm. I plan to add these. Is 200 the temp you got Mark?
Yes, but if did it again I would look harder for 190's. Better safety factor. (I have 160 thermostats)
 
I have these on my exhaust shower heads, their 180 degree. Not sure how the hose would get hotter then the shower head if the water flow got restricted or stopped. I think the shower head would see the rise before the hump hose.

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I have these on my exhaust shower heads, their 180 degree. Not sure how the hose would get hotter then the shower head if the water flow got restricted or stopped. I think the shower head would see the rise before the hump hose.

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The shower head will get hot, but the hottest spot will be the top of the hose right behind the shower head. Sometimes at an idle, the raw water flow may not be enough to completely fill the mixer with water and the top holes of the shower may not have water coming out. At cruise though, there’s plenty of water and if it quits, everything gets hot in a hurry.
 
My new alarm panel has expansion space for an exhaust alarm. I plan to add these. Is 200 the temp you got Mark?
I may have misunderstood this post earlier. Sorry. I don’t remember what the Borel exhaust alarm triggers at, I thought you meant the exhaust manifold temperature switch in the coolant passage of the manifold. That’s 200 and I would go 190 if I were to do it again.
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I may have misunderstood this post earlier. Sorry. I don’t remember what the Borel exhaust alarm triggers at, I thought you meant the exhaust manifold temperature switch in the coolant passage of the manifold. That’s 200 and I would go 190 if I were to do it again.
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Thanks.

So I can get smarter, why would one need a coolant temp alarm, an exhaust manifold temp alarm, and an exhaust hose temp alarm?
 
There's the coolant temperature alarm from the factory, low on the Block.
The exhaust manifold temperature alarm in the coolant passage (picture above) is located at the spot on the engine that is going to get the hottest the fastest if coolant stops flowing or the engine overheats for some reason. The one low in the block will lag behind but is a good backup.
The exhaust hose temperature is a function of RAW water flow. If the pump fails, the screen gets plugged, a raw water hose breaks, whatever would cause raw water to stop flowing, hose will get hot, especially on top of it right behind the shower as the 800-900 degree exhaust uncooled by water hits the hose.

Top inside of old exhaust hose right behind the shower. I was surprised to see how broken down it was. I cut it to get it off, then it started ripping and falling apart while I was pulling it off. I had never had a raw water flow problem. That's why I went with the silicone 350 degree hoses.
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There's the coolant temperature alarm from the factory, low on the Block.
The exhaust manifold temperature alarm in the coolant passage (picture above) is located at the spot on the engine that is going to get the hottest the fastest if coolant stops flowing or the engine overheats for some reason. The one low in the block will lag behind but is a good backup.
The exhaust hose temperature is a function of RAW water flow. If the pump fails, the screen gets plugged, a raw water hose breaks, whatever would cause raw water to stop flowing, hose will get hot, especially on top of it right behind the shower as the 800-900 degree exhaust uncooled by water hits the hose.

Top inside of old exhaust hose right behind the shower. I was surprised to see how broken down it was. I cut it to get it off, then it started ripping and falling apart while I was pulling it off. I had never had a raw water flow problem. That's why I went with the silicone 350 degree hoses.
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Interesting, thanks. Maybe I’ll just move my low block switch to the exhaust manifold. Since that’s a better detection point. Or maybe even just tie the block switch and a new exhaust manifold switch to the existing alarm wire on the block switch. I’m tired of fishing new wires up to the bridge. Ha!
 
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Looks great Bill!

Bennett
Thanks. Just a bunch of lights and a buzzer triggered by a 12v signal. If I did it again I might call Aqualarm and have them custom make one larger panel with everything on it. I bought two panels off the shelf.
 
In case anyone else decides to do this, I talked to Aqualarm about a custom panel. They quoted me $135 for the panel I drew up in the picture below. Reason I went with two panels is mainly I didn’t think of custom until too late, and the existing cutout is wider than the Aqualarm panel, so you’d have to find a way to cover it anyway. Aqualarm might make the panel wider for you to have it cover the existing cutout. But I did not ask them that.
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In case anyone else decides to do this, I talked to Aqualarm about a custom panel. They quoted me $135 for the panel I drew up in the picture below. Reason I went with two panels is mainly I didn’t think of custom until too late, and the existing cutout is wider than the Aqualarm panel, so you’d have to find a way to cover it anyway. Aqualarm might make the panel wider for you to have it cover the existing cutout. But I did not ask them that.
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Thanks for your postings in this Bill. I had troubles on and off with the monitor on my 360, so far, fingers crossed, this boat is good, but good info for if the time comes.
 
all good info here.

From what I've read, seems there are two types of Sea Ray SYSTEMS MONITORS.

1. the ones that have failed.

2. the ones that will fail.

Unless I've missed something?

BEST !

RWS
 
Been thinking of doing this for a while since my original systems monitor display is so hazed, I cant read the display. When I saw this thread, it helped me decide to jump in and do it.

I used the same Aqualarm panels for the Bilge (2 two sump pumps and 2 emergency high water alarms).
Engine system (Port alarm, Starboard alarm, Generator Alarm) the only difference is that 2000 MAG 454 MPI's only have a "engine diagnostic" alarm (basically check your engine) and I do have a Generator Oil Pressure alarm.

I also used the suggested Relay Boards and mounted them inside of a waterproof project box that is mounted on the bulkhead where the old Systems Monitor box used to be. I ran a 9 conductor cable up to the dash and the alarm panels are where the old Systems Monitor used to be.

All in all a nice update, easy enough (except the labels on the wires were so faded I spent a lot of time reading schematics)!

Thanks gentlemen for leading the way
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That’s awesome. Very professional. We will call mine the rapid prototype and yours the production model. Ha!
 
Been thinking of doing this for a while since my original systems monitor display is so hazed, I cant read the display. When I saw this thread, it helped me decide to jump in and do it.

I used the same Aqualarm panels for the Bilge (2 two sump pumps and 2 emergency high water alarms).
Engine system (Port alarm, Starboard alarm, Generator Alarm) the only difference is that 2000 MAG 454 MPI's only have a "engine diagnostic" alarm (basically check your engine) and I do have a Generator Oil Pressure alarm.

I also used the suggested Relay Boards and mounted them inside of a waterproof project box that is mounted on the bulkhead where the old Systems Monitor box used to be. I ran a 9 conductor cable up to the dash and the alarm panels are where the old Systems Monitor used to be.

All in all a nice update, easy enough (except the labels on the wires were so faded I spent a lot of time reading schematics)!
Do you mind posting a picture of your alarm panels?
 
One thing I forgot to mention. The factory buzzer is behind the helm so it’s a bit muffled and not horribly irritating. But the new alarm panel buzzer is so loud it’s unbearable. I found a standard cylindrical foam ear plug is a perfect fit for the buzzer hole. So I stuffed it in there and cut it flush with a razor blade. Now it’s a nice and comfortable sound level.
 

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