The Official 450 Express Bridge Owners Club

Here's a mystery. When hooked up to dock water, potable pumps switched off, I get a steady stream of water pouring out the potable tank vents. A steady stream of water. Stops on closing dock water valve. And, with only onboard pumps switched on, I don't get water coming out the vents. Drawings of water system in manual, not so swell, hard to discern how dock water would continuously overfill the potable tank. Perhaps the dock pressure is enough to pass backwards through the pumps? Or, accumulator tank doesn't function properly on dock water? Not a major issue, nor new, other than a waste of water unless I simply keep the dock valve off. I like dock water when aboard simply to relieve my pumps from cycling while my bridge faucet leaks (replacement ordered).
 
There is a check valve that keeps dock water from going back into the on-board tank system. Sounds like it is stuck open.
 
Forrestkk said:
There is a check valve that keeps dock water from going back into the on-board tank system. Sounds like it is stuck open.
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Makes sense. Know where the check valve is exactly?
 
Jack O'Brien said:
Makes sense. Know where the check valve is exactly?
Click to expand...

I don't, would need to go down to the dock to look at our boat (raining right now), but it is typically installed on the outlet side of the pumps and there should be a T fitting where the dock water comes in at the transom. When the dock water pressure comes in from the pressure regulator the check valve closes and sends pressure to the boat and closes off the pumps and tank. There is also normally a check valve that keeps internal water from going back to the transom dock water inlet when the pumps are running.
 
Forrestkk said:
I don't, would need to go down to the dock to look at our boat (raining right now), but it is typically installed on the outlet side of the pumps and there should be a T fitting where the dock water comes in at the transom. When the dock water pressure comes in from the pressure regulator the check valve closes and sends pressure to the boat and closes off the pumps and tank. There is also normally a check valve that keeps internal water from going back to the transom dock water inlet when the pumps are running.
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Thanks! I'll hunt for it. Pumps were replaced over a year ago but had yacht mgr do it. Agreed, downstream of pumps discharge is logical spot.
 
Nevermind, description says there is a check valve in there.
 
Another question that may have been addressed in the past….
My boat runs best with full tabs down. The speed picks up 2-4 knots. I was assuming that the tabs are lifting the stern and overcoming the weight of the engines.
Do other 450eb owners notice the same ?
 
Bill Carroll said:
Another question that may have been addressed in the past….
My boat runs best with full tabs down. The speed picks up 2-4 knots. I was assuming that the tabs are lifting the stern and overcoming the weight of the engines.
Do other 450eb owners notice the same ?
Click to expand...

Yes, run full down unless following seas.
 
Bill Carroll said:
I tried Acme props with more surface area to help with stern lift, didn’t help at all.
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I had my props tuned by Compu Prop here in the Destin area. Anecdotally, I am getting about two more trips around the local area on a load of fuel. I was overpropped by 2", so much better now. Also, had Propspeed applied which is amazing, nothing grows on the props (did our lights and transducers too, same good result).

Our boats are just aft heavy due to V-Drives and fuel all being under the cockpit.
 
Aft heavy, yes. And yes to full down trim tabs on plane (bow down). Plus clean running gear is paramount as nentioned. Still would like better fuel level accuracy. On E, I still have about 150 gallons total from filling experience. At 7#/ gallon, would much prefer not topping off tanks while running very long staring at gauges on E increases anxiety. Variety of solutions not viewed recently but ultrasonic was a possibility. Head space above tank sending units is microscopic to even replace.
 
First shake down cruise since purchase... Lots of questions and lots of answers. Good news is we made it back with no broken fiberglass or mechanical issues! Found a few minor squawks and discovered the master bellows and duckbills are good, just needed some exercise.. Runs about 10 seconds after a flush. Guest head, on the other hand, will require me to get my hands dirty.
One question for the group. The manual states that you should turn the engine solenoids off if you plan on being away for "extended periods". Any idea what extended means? 3 days? A month? We will sometimes go 2-3 weeks between outings. Thoughts?

BTW, to the new members... I just bought my 450 in Dec 2022.. two of the biggest reasons I selected this model. 1) walk thru bridge. 2) easily handled with short crew and 3) BONUS! The support on this board is FANTASTIC!

Happy New Year to all!
 
My boat sits idle for avg 3-4 weeks at a time. I turn off battery switches, dock water, and potable pumps. Water heater off, salon fridge emptied & off & ajar with a couple dish towels. Salon A/C to dehumidify mode. ALL food except canned removed from cabs. Vacuum before departing. Pretty much my routine.
 
Jack O'Brien said:
My boat sits idle for avg 3-4 weeks at a time. I turn off battery switches, dock water, and potable pumps. Water heater off, salon fridge emptied & off & ajar with a couple dish towels. Salon A/C to dehumidify mode. ALL food except canned removed from cabs. Vacuum before departing. Pretty much my routine.
Click to expand...

The engine solenoids are controlled by the key switches in the master panel in the salon. I turn those off right after I shut down when not using the mains, even if at the beach/on the hook for extended periods. Only reason I leave them on is if I expect the need for a "rapid" start.

Being that my boat sits in front of our house and I am on it daily, I keep fridges/ice makers/ACs running. If we are out of town, I keep fridges going, but shut down the ACs and close all sea cocks.
 
Forrestkk said:
The engine solenoids are controlled by the key switches in the master panel in the salon . I turn those off right after I shut down when not using the mains, even if at the beach/on the hook for extended periods. Only reason I leave them on is if I expect the need for a "rapid" start.

Being that my boat sits in front of our house and I am on it daily, I keep fridges/ice makers/ACs running. If we are out of town, I keep fridges going, but shut down the ACs and close all sea cocks.
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Good info! I'll probably follow Jack's suggestion as we'll be couple of weeks between visits. Appreciate all the feedback. You guys are a wealth of info.

Next task on the list... get my 6'1" 230lb butt into a position to inspect/clean the sump.. I've already read all the horror stories about the starboard aft screw... Wish me luck!
 
MarginCall said:
Good info! I'll probably follow Jack's suggestion as we'll be couple of weeks between visits. Appreciate all the feedback. You guys are a wealth of info.

Next task on the list... get my 6'1" 230lb butt into a position to inspect/clean the sump.. I've already read all the horror stories about the starboard aft screw... Wish me luck!
Click to expand...

Good luck, it is a TIGHT fit between the sea strainers.

I am actually thinking of going to a pure dehumidifier for colder months and when we are away.
 
If she was behind my house, I would probably leave fridge running but the freezer does get a bit frosty, so empty and off seems better while away for me. Closing seacocks is good for exercising the valves regardless but I do leave mine open. Lots of eyes on my boat while away. Idle failure of a hose would be pretty unusual but I suppose could happen. Btw, I carry spare clamps and wet, dry, and hi temp tape. Used once. My after cooler boost hose blew off from a broken clamp while underway to the Keys. Shut her down, replaced both clamps, back on line. Hose was fine, just popped off without a clamp. Caution about water heater. Never ever should be allowed to run dry while switched on. It will fail.
 
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