The official "Stray Current II" thread. '07 260DA

[Stray Current]

View attachment 77906

I'll be documenting the process and progress of repair and upgrade on my recently purchased 2007 260 Sundancer. Hopefully I'll be able to provide some good information to others, as well as gain some in return.

I'll be recapping what I've done so far in the first few posts, and I'll be documenting all progress going forward as I make it.

In September 2019, I closed and took delivery of my 2007 260DA. It's powered by a 6.2 MX MPI Horizon coupled to a Bravo III, and features a Kohler 5ECD generator. It came with a 2017 Venture Vantage VATB-8725 trialer.

After a survey and a seatrial, we reached a deal. Ran the boat home 80 miles by water. We used it a bit the next day and then loaded it on the trailer.

 

[Stray Current]

I took the boat to my Mercruiser dealer for a new transom assembly. The leaking steering shaft was found on the survey and negotiated into the sale price. I opted for the SeaCore transom assembly as I intend to have this boat awhile. The new assembly featured rams, gimbal bearing, boots bellows and a shift cable. The fuel cooler module was subject to recall and replaced as well. Replacement fuel injectors were backordered, so the injectors were cleaned and bench tested. They were reinstalled.

While engine was out, the starter, exhaust flappers, engine coupler, u joints, and IAC filter were changed. I also had them change the bilge and raw water hoses that went under the engine. The raw pump was new this spring.

 

[Little Ducky]

Consider linking this "official thread" to your signature area on the bottom of your posts.

It makes it easier for folks to keep up with what you are doing.

Happy Boating.


Mine are below vvvvvVVVVvvvVvvvvVVVvvvv

 

[Stray Current]

Once the main engine was reinstalled and tested, I changed the plugs with Delco 963s and replaced the original cap, rotor, and wires with genuine Quicksilver parts.

At this point I decided to replace the risers, serpentine belt, and idler pulley. I used genuine Mercruiser parts.

Now, the genset became the next subject of my Ire...

 

[Lazy Daze]

Looks like you have big planes for the gal.

You mentioned you want to hang on to the boat for a long time. A suggestion to pass along... get rid of (block off) the raw water intake through the drive... specifically, through the transom. Installing a thru-hull intake intake with a seacock and strainer is vastly superior to the existing setup. Yes, Merc has a new transom tube assembly that is supposed to fix "bravoitis" (google it), but it hasn't really been around long enough to be 100% reliable. Besides, even if it turns out to be, a thru-hull is still better.

 

[Stray Current]

One of the main reasons I picked this boat is the generator. (I am a Kohler generator dealer for standby power, as well as electrician!)

Admittedly, I didn't do my due diligence on the genset at purchase. It would run fine and produce good power, but after 20 minutes it would shut down on EC69 (oxygen sensor switching fault) after approximately 20 minutes. It would not hot restart.


I tested the O2 sensor coil resistance cold and found an open. Spec called for 25 ohms. I ordered a new one.

I had to move the unit to change the sensor. While it was out I adjusted the valve lash to .006", the higher side of the .004" - 006" spec.

Unfortunately, the hot start issues still persisted. The occasional sneeze indicated fuel starvation. Isolating the unit from the boat fuel system with an outboard tank did not help, however squeezing the primer bulb hard at start-up cured the issue.

I have a new lift pump, secondary filter, spin on filter and base, and hoses ready to go.

More to follow on this.

 

[Stray Current]

Looks like you have big planes for the gal.

You mentioned you want to hang on to the boat for a long time. A suggestion to pass along... get rid of (block off) the raw water intake through the drive... specifically, through the transom. Installing a thru-hull intake intake with a seacock and strainer is vastly superior to the existing setup. Yes, Merc has a new transom tube assembly that is supposed to fix "bravoitis" (google it), but it hasn't really been around long enough to be 100% reliable. Besides, even if it turns out to be, a thru-hull is still better.

This boat has the FWC Horizon. It has the thru hull seacock with strainer as well as drive pickup.

I was advised to keep the drive pickup as the flow through cools the drive.

The boat will be lift kept with a flush fitting attached to the seacock. The excess flow will flush the drive as well.

 

[Stray Current]

Unfortunately, we found out that the cabin was less than watertight in the first particularly nasty rainstorm after we bought it. 2 of the cabin portlights needed to be re-bedded, as well as the drain fitting for the cabin door well.

Resealed all 4 portholes. All watertight now.

Don't use 5200 for this! EVER!

 

[Stray Current]

All of the exterior lighting was upgraded to LED. If anyone has any suggestions for the deck and arch lights for new fixtures I'd be interested.

Nav lights are new LED Attwood 2NM lights.

 

[Stray Current]

So now we come to one of the many fun parts!

Simrad GO12XSE, 4G radar, RS35 VHF, GS25 heading sensor, and Livorsi mercmonitor with NMEA2K output.

I'll also be replacing the dash and switch panels with black stardust repops from flounder pounder, new red led switches, and reconfiguring the layout some.

This is now where the thread goes from recap to a play by play.

Here is a before, some gutted, and some mockup pics.

So far I have the dome mounted at a 2 degree forward tilt in relation to the keel. Dash gutted, heading sensor installed, nmea backbone in place, secondary fuse blocks installed, and a half ass plan.

A fusion stereo, zone amp, and six new 6.5" speakers are forthcoming as well.

I need to make a clay mold of a fairing block for the PA speaker to recreate out of starboard for the curve and radius of the arch.

Going to remove the factory gauges entirely. Replacing the Clarion remote with the mercmonitor, and mounting the MFD in front of the blank panel where factory gauges went. Sidebar on Simrad screen will display engine info, and will also function as stereo remote.

 

[Tacoma290]

View attachment 77913 View attachment 77912 One of the main reasons I picked this boat is the generator. (I am a Kohler generator dealer for standby power, as well as electrician!)

Admittedly, I didn't do my due diligence on the genset at purchase. It would run fine and produce good power, but after 20 minutes it would shut down on EC69 (oxygen sensor switching fault) after approximately 20 minutes. It would not hot restart.


I tested the O2 sensor coil resistance cold and found an open. Spec called for 25 ohms. I ordered a new one.

I had to move the unit to change the sensor. While it was out I adjusted the valve lash to .006", the higher side of the .004" - 006" spec.

Unfortunately, the hot start issues still persisted. The occasional sneeze indicated fuel starvation. Isolating the unit from the boat fuel system with an outboard tank did not help, however squeezing the primer bulb hard at start-up cured the issue.

I have a new lift pump, secondary filter, spin on filter and base, and hoses ready to go.

More to follow on this.

I have the same generator. That secondary filter looks exactly like mine did: stock with factory paint on it! Mine ran rough when I got it, but new filters (the fuel bleed process is key), proper bleed on the coolant, new plugs (the previous owner has the wrong plugs in there), and new impeller; It runs great now. I look forward to your follow up

 

[Lazy Daze]

Good deal on the thru-hull water pickup.

It's good to have the flow going through the drive - that's a definite. Although, it could just dump back out and not actually go through the transom to avoid possible leaks. But you'll be fine with the setup you have.

 

[PeteL]

I like your plan for getting rid of the guages. That is something I want to do.
Looking forward to updates.

 

[DWABoat]

All of the exterior lighting was upgraded to LED. If anyone has any suggestions for the deck and arch lights for new fixtures I'd be interested.

Nav lights are new LED Attwood 2NM lights. View attachment 77920
View attachment 77916 View attachment 77917 View attachment 77918 View attachment 77919 View attachment 77920

Can you list the specific Atwood model number of the red and green led nav lights you installed, please? I’m thinking of converting mine over.

 

[Stray Current]

Can you list the specific Atwood model number of the red and green led nav lights you installed, please? I’m thinking of converting mine over.

http://www.attwoodmarine.com/store/product/3530

they were a little tricky to get centerline lined up and cover the existing holes from the factory ones. Wound up drilling the base plate to accommodate existing holes in the deck. Bedded and totally potted in life seal. They look like they'd let water in if not totally filled.

 

[DWABoat]

They look great. Good tip on drilling the base plate to match the boat. Much better than doing it the other way around.

 

[Stray Current]

Not an awful lot of progress since last weekend, been working like a dog and getting ready for Christmas.

I managed to get all of my hoses and clamps to replace everything below the waterline. Generator exhaust and cooling hoses for ac, gen and main all looking a little tired.

Also made a 3rd grade level clay fairing block to be replicated in starboard for the hailer speaker. Unfortunately my woodworking skills leave everything to be desired.

 

[Lazy Daze]

Good idea with the clay. That'll work out nicley for you by transfering the curvature to the stbd. Do you have a drum sander or even a belt sander (using the front edge like a drum)? Keep in mind you won't have to get it perfect... Caulk and paint hide what ain't! Granted, no paint... but you need the word 'paint' in that old saying.

If the clay doesn't work as you expect... google for "contour gauge".

 

[Stray Current]

Good idea with the clay. That'll work out nicley for you by transfering the curvature to the stbd. Do you have a drum sander or even a belt sander (using the front edge like a drum)? Keep in mind you won't have to get it perfect... Caulk and paint hide what ain't! Granted, no paint... but you need the word 'paint' in that old saying.

If the clay doesn't work as you expect... google for "contour gauge".

I truly wish it was a "beat to fit, paint to match" scenario!

I actually used a contour gauge and a little drawing to have the local cabinet guy in town make my radar mount fairing block. unfortunately that far to the edge of the arch its way too much of a compound angle for me to try to replicate any other way.

the good news is I can drop off the clay and a hunk of starboard and a day or two later I'll have the piece made, ready to go.


Once I have the hailer speaker mounted that'll be the end of exterior work until spring and I can get it wrapped and continue my electronics and mechanical upgrades inside.

Still trying to figure out where I'm going to mount my dual stainless trumpet horn. That might go on the deck by the wiper motor.

nothing like making the inattentive pontoon boat operator aimlessly criss-crossing the channel load his shorts

 

[Stray Current]

Got a little time to dig into the genset. Replaced the plugs, wires, anode, fuel lift pump, and fuel filter.

Opened up the fuel pump module and cleaned it out.

Just an FYI, the module is technically not a serviceable assembly, and no gasket is available. I wound up sealing the halves back up with three-bond.

Unfortunately, my hot restart fuel starvation issues still persist. While I had it all apart I noticed Teflon tape on the tube nut. I suspect it's been monkeyed with in the past and I may have Teflon tape fouling the injector.

Going to order a new injector.

Unfortunately, and yet again, more to follow on this damn genset. What a major PITA