Tips on Engine Removal - '92 Searay 4.3 Mercruiser?

zghorner

New Member
May 11, 2022
2
Boat Info
'92 searay 200 Overnighter
Engines
4.3 mercruiser
My dad bought a '92 overnighter that wasn't winterized and has a bad block (he pulled the heads and verified it is trash)...He has been an Auto mechanic his entire life so no worries on anything basic or similar to cars/trucks...but he isn't quite sure about what is required to remove the engine from this boat.

his primary question is whether or not the drive has to be removed from the boat or can the engine simply be unbolted in the back and taken out? I have a large skid steer so maneuvering it around is not problem.

also, any specialty tool required for the job?

Any other useful tips/tricks for this process? He is searching for the correct long block now and i believe they want the damaged block for core charge so it will be coming out soon.

PS: He is probably going with Jasper engines as he has had good luck with them in the past with his shop and trusts their warranty.
 
Last edited:
Drive has to come off. I suggest taking the transom assembly off and reseal it, you don't want to do this twice.
 
Drive has to come off. I suggest taking the transom assembly off and reseal it, you don't want to do this twice.

Also, while engine is out, check the rear motor mounts on the transom plate and check exhaust pipe to the transom plate for excessive corrosion. Then you have your bilges and bilge pump while engine is out, too. Check the steering hinge pin if you remove the transom plate, too. Easy to change when all apart already. Almost impossible when assembled.

And don't forget to disconnect fuel line, control cables, water hoses, Power Steering / hoses (if you have PS), any oil cooler water hoses (if you have oil coolers) and the battery cables to starter. Be careful and document where the "bonding wires" are and don't break one that got missed when pulling engine. Electrical harness just unplugs.

Take lots of pictures and get the engine alignment / bearing / bellows tools for re-assy.
 
I just removed the motor in my boat. No special tools required to remove. Just make sure to label the wires and like advised above, take pictures. When you replace the motor, you will need an alignment rod to check for proper alignment. Once you have it aligned, put the out-drive back on and you are set.
 
Another item to check while it's out is the coupler. It's what bolts to the crankshaft that the outdrive splined shaft slides into. It looks like a giant rubber shock bushing and will leave you dead in the water if the splines go away. Since you have to pull the outdrive anyway, you can hand-fit the coupler (once it's out) to the outdrive's shaft and check for any obvious play. For all the work involved in replacing this piece, now's the time to ensure it's serviceable. Depending on the style (I think there's only two for that time period) It'll look like this:
6116ZR+UixL._AC_SX679_.jpg


or this:
41UmE+km7cL._AC_SX466_.jpg

Break
Out
Another
Thousand
 
They "aligned" the engines on the 330DA when they were reinstalled. Never quite knew how they did it though.
 
To add to what Potato Man said…
Last year while getting some work done the mechanic told me my coupler may need to be replaced down the road. These are experienced boat guys and said 2.5 hours to remove, same in. About $500 total labor. He said no big deal. Your dad will probably be good doing the work but he may want a boat guy along to show the tricks.
 
They "aligned" the engines on the 330DA when they were reinstalled. Never quite knew how they did it though.

Youtube is your friend on this one. Not hard to do (best with 2 people), but access to front engine mounts can be difficult, at best, on some boats
 
When I pulled starboard motor out of my 95 290 DA I remover risers and exhaust manifold in boat first then its real easy to see and get to motor mounts, wiring on starter, ground wires on back of motor and any water lines with clamps plus motor is a little nearer which makes it a little easier to get out
 

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