What varnish do you use on teak?

[Soulshine]

I also see that the Awlwood system uses a primer. The Gleam offered one too but I didn't see the need which was confirmed upon seeing the low viscosity that I mentioned.

It soaked in very well and IMO served the same purpose.

 

[Skybolt]

Back when I had a boat that had wood, I used Amazon teak oil (not the shopping company). Never liked look of varnish. Oil is a once a month project but that golden satin look can’t be beat.

I need to post some pic's but that is why I went with the Awlwood satin product. It looks exactly like Teak when oiled right. Just a very light sheen, but it stays that way and doesn't fade. It maintains that deep oiled look over time. It's not to popular because of the cost I think, but well worth the results.

 

[Skybolt]

I also see that the Awlwood system uses a primer. The Gleam offered one too but I didn't see the need which was confirmed upon seeing the low viscosity that I mentioned.

It soaked in very well and IMO served the same purpose.

Yeah, as I mentioned I use the primer as well. After the steel wool I use air to clean it off then a tack rag. Came out nice and no rust marks so far. As mentioned I will post some pics of it now after a lot of abuse this past summer.

 

[Soulshine]

Interested, particularly since it yields an oil like appearance. I love a teak oil finish and use it in cabins and cockpits only.

I'm not wild about the hard, filled look of varnish and avoid gloss for that reason, but this sounds like the best of both worlds.

 

[Skybolt]

Thought I would follow up with a couple of pics of the Awlwood satin finish look. Complete with dog hair and nail scratches ...
Both of which are really only noticeable in these pic's.

This is a primer coat and three wet coats of satin finish. I should have gone five or six, but never got around to it. This stuff takes almost thirty six hours to completely dry to be able to sand in between coats.

This was 80grit then 180grit with a DA and then smoothed out with 240 by hand. Wiped down with acetone and a tack rag. Both of which was over kill, because the pollen killed me. But came out nice in the end.

 

[sbw1]

I used a product from our local ACE hardware store and applied 15 coats of high gloss spar varnish with cheap foam brushes that I threw away after each application. It held up well and looked great for years. I never let it weather and recoated every 2-3 years.

 

[Soulshine]

Looks good and as expected, I like the low sheen.

 

[Henry Boyd]

I used a product from our local ACE hardware store and applied 15 coats of high gloss spar varnish with cheap foam brushes that I threw away after each application. It held up well and looked great for years. I never let it weather and recoated every 2-3 years.

I know its heresy but those foam brushes are a gift from heaven for the DIYer. I started using them after we had the hardwood floors in the house refinished a few years ago. The crew used foam applicators that they used once for each coat and chucked. But that said, the guy who did our teak was old school and did all of it with natural bristle brushes only he was allowed to touch.

 

[Soulshine]

But that said, the guy who did our teak was old school and did all of it with natural bristle brushes only he was allowed to touch.

I like that guy already.

I use badger bristle brushes. Hard to find good ones but incomparable for this kind of work.

The two I have are about 35 years old.