mrsrobinson
Well-Known Member
Same, and it's built from fiberglass. Good to know.
Winterizing twin inboards by myself
- Thread starter mrsrobinson
- Start date
boatrboy
Well-Known Member
I was happy to see that the removal force was close to nothing on both of mine (3/8" wrench). I am thinking since the washer is rubber, it does not take much to seal it so I used very little force after re-installing it after I finished winterizing. I also used a cup there to catch some of the antifreeze to match up the color and it was as purple as the jug
Skybolt
Well-Known Member
- Nov 11, 2014
- 6,422
- Boat Info
- Reel Nauti
460 EC
- Engines
- Detroit 6v92TA
(Low profile's)
Alison Gears
Westerbeke
12.5kw Genset
I was happy to see that the removal force was close to nothing on both of mine (3/8" wrench). I am thinking since the washer is rubber, it does not take much to seal it so I used very little force after re-installing it after I finished winterizing. I also used a cup there to catch some of the antifreeze to match up the color and it was as purple as the jug
The issue with that is vibration, and the screw should be very snug. It is very difficult to get the right amount of torque without stripping out the thread.
With regard to matching the color, why would even bother? Just run everything through the raw water side and just drain the muffler. Trying to match the color of anti-freeze by sight is impossible, literally impossible. You need a refractometer to do that and one just for alcohol based anti-freeze. One for glycol based anti-freeze will not work for that.
boatrboy
Well-Known Member
I guess I'll consider myself lucky as I had over 60 hrs. this year and the little torque on that bolt rendered no drips
I wont debate the ability of knowing exactly the dilution ratio by eye, but it made me feel better knowing my first winterization on this boat worked as described by the input I received here and my own scouring of manuals, etc.
mrsrobinson
Well-Known Member
I could be wrong. The under water (on the bottom of the hull) elbow exhaust connects to a large muffler looking thing inside my boat. Its the thing where a puff of exhaust comes out in the first 7 seconds of your video. I have always referred to it as "the underwater exhaust". It connects to what looks like a muffler to me inside the boat. Perhaps I am wrong though.
This thing circled in red. When I had the hose disconnected in this pic I noticed it was full of water. Actually made me a little anxious knowing it's just fiberglass.
So, drain the mufflers, what am I draining?
that’s just a tube going right thru the bottom of the boat. It’s near the water line which is why it was full
water lift mufflers look like this and I’m pretty certain sea ray did not put them on cat powered boats
mrsrobinson
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I was working off bad memory until I saw that pic, you're right.
midexp
Active Member
- Oct 5, 2016
- 423
- Boat Info
- 1999 40' Sundancer
- Engines
- 454 merc
Really surprised how many are using the red -50F for their engines. To each his own, but -100F for me.
i used 6 gallons of -60 mixed with 1G of -100. Tests out to about 34-35% prop glycol by volume, 2-3*F slush point and wayyy below 0 burst point. That helps me sleep at night
SeaNile
Well-Known Member
Just winterized my boat solo today. A little hectic running in and out of the bilge but in the end it cost me $265 in antifreeze vs $1500 to have it done for me.
11 gallons to each QSM11, 3 gallons to the generator.
I used the clear screw on cap with the hose adapter for the generator and the SeaFlush for the engines. Only because the clear cap thingy was too small for the engine strainers.
What really sucked, or should i say didn't suck was the fact that neither the engines nor the generator had enough "pull" to get the pink stuff from the bucket to engine when the bucket was in the bilge. Had to use some hose, electrical tape and placed the 5 gallon bucket in the cockpit. Even then it wouldn't pull the pink. Had to really work to prime the system to get it to flow. Once it started I was good to go.
Tried the clear cap and also the SeaFlush system for the AC units and failed miserably. The only way the AC pump (1 big pump to 4 AC units) would pull is if the seacock was open and the strainer cap was on tightly. Once I closed the seacock there was nothing I could do to prime the pump. Tried lots of gravity, funnel in the strainer while dumping pink and a few other things and no go. Strainer was full of pink but could never get the pump to pull it through.
I'm out of town for a week during this brief cold stretch but it'll be OK. Bilge is relatively warm (twin hornet 1000w heater) and the cabin is staying at 60 with the portable heater in there.
mrsrobinson
Well-Known Member
I love that photo. Your challenges are the reason I've posted these threads; I want to make sure I'm prepared with everything I need when I get there and have other options in case those don't work. Plus my marina quoted me $2,500 to do everything.
After contacting twin hornet I just purchased the 45, they said for my boat size it would do the same as the 66, especially with the boat staying in the water.
I'm going to try to blow air through the AC strainer versus pumping in antifreeze. On my last boat I pushed antifreeze through the thru-hull fitting back to the strainer, using a pump on my drill, and that worked well. You could disconnect the AC hose after the strainer and use a pump to push the antifreeze through like I did.
I'm bringing my drill pump to the boat as well as the pump I used with the 5 gallon bucket this summer to flush the coolers in case I have challenges.
After contacting twin hornet I just purchased the 45, they said for my boat size it would do the same as the 66, especially with the boat staying in the water.
I'm going to try to blow air through the AC strainer versus pumping in antifreeze. On my last boat I pushed antifreeze through the thru-hull fitting back to the strainer, using a pump on my drill, and that worked well. You could disconnect the AC hose after the strainer and use a pump to push the antifreeze through like I did.
I'm bringing my drill pump to the boat as well as the pump I used with the 5 gallon bucket this summer to flush the coolers in case I have challenges.
boatrboy
Well-Known Member
FWIW - My thought is with my set up there is gravity working in my favor as I’m not trying to vacuum the antifreeze from 3 ft above. I’m actually pushing it into the strainer the minute I open the valve, albeit the force of gravity only, but I had no problem with my ac priming. I too vacuumed out the strainer, cleaned the screen, and filled it with antifreeze. I did open my valve here before turning on the ac so antifreeze was filling the clear hose. (Edit) I did see you said you tried lots of gravity but was it with the funnel set up? Maybe the extra head pressure on my set up helped?
I am no expert here, just sharing what worked for me. I used this set up for my two motors, generator and ac.
I also remember during the year the thru hull got shut off and ac lost its prime while I was at the dock. I had to use my small vacuum and hold it up to the discharge fitting on the outside of the hull. It primed in ten seconds.
I am no expert here, just sharing what worked for me. I used this set up for my two motors, generator and ac.
I also remember during the year the thru hull got shut off and ac lost its prime while I was at the dock. I had to use my small vacuum and hold it up to the discharge fitting on the outside of the hull. It primed in ten seconds.
mrsrobinson
Well-Known Member
Losing prime on an AC in general sucks, it's happened to me before especially when having the boat hauled out and not closing the seacock ahead of time. I think trying to push or pull the antifreeze through with a pump or vacuum might be your easiest solution.
I always had been able to pull antifreeze into the engines until last year. After a few frustrating tries on port at idle, I had my helper run up the engine as soon she started it. I think i got pull at about 1500 RPMs. I got after the problem after de-winterizing in spring. Turned out the belt was just a little loose, not enough to impact the alternator or coolant flow at speed but enough to impact coolant flow at idle. My generator has always pulled pink from the bilge so maybe a look at that belt would help you as well.
I've had the same problem with the AC. I used to crimp off three hoses at a time and that worked but was a lot of effort. I've just used the SeaFlush to blow out the system for the last couple of years and and that has worked well for me.
SeaNile
Well-Known Member
That absolutely could have been the issue. I didn't even start them before I had the winterizing stuff hooked up. Bet they started and stayed at about 580-600 rpms. It was chilly the night before and about 44 when I was working today. Although they started right up the RPMs were low and they were cold!!
I thought about using the air compressor to blow out the AC but I wasn't sure it the air would get past the pump.
mrsrobinson
Well-Known Member
quality time
Well-Known Member
- Oct 30, 2007
- 2,360
- Boat Info
- Miss Stress
2006 50' Post
- Engines
- Series 60 Detroits
That's odd John, both my engines have always pulled from a big rubbermaid tote sitting on the ER floor through a 4' hose going to the strainer caps. My gen always needed gravity to prime the AF though.
AC pumps are a bit different than engine pumps. Engines use a rubber impeller that usually blocks flow if it is not spinning. AC pumps are magnetic driven and easily freewheel if the pump is not running. You can easily blow air or water (AF) through an AC pump as a result. This is also why AC pumps have to be primed - they don’t make a seal against the housing so are not self priming.
Njlarry
Well-Known Member
I use the same set up as boat. I first drain most of the water out by removing a transmission zinc and vacuum out the strainers. Admiral starts engine, pump 7 gals, I pull on a rope running up the steps to the bridge and she shuts it down. Checked with refractometer the first year to confirm 7 gals was enough.
Your main problem seems to be how to start and stop the engines by yourself since CATs dont have remote start stop panels like Cummins. I have been looking how to do that without success.
Your main problem seems to be how to start and stop the engines by yourself since CATs dont have remote start stop panels like Cummins. I have been looking how to do that without success.
Irie308
Well-Known Member
- May 28, 2013
- 2,593
- Boat Info
- 2004 420 DB, GHS Hydraulic Lift
Garmin 8600/Garmin 1222 plus
AB Mares 10 VSX with 30 hp Tohatsu
- Engines
- Cummins 450C 8.3 L Turbocharged
I hate having to depend on someone to assist with the winterization process however it does make life easy with 2 people. Especially on a bridge boat. Here is a pic of my setup. The size of the bin is over kill but it allows me some flexibly to do it myself as I don't have to worry about it tipping over as it empties. I also store all my descaling and winterization kits in it. In the past when I had help I timed how long it takes for the bin to empty. All in my 450s suck down 6 gallons of AF in about 10 secs. If I'm doing this by myself I add an extra gallon and time it from the bridge.
