Just because there isn't one out here and I know of a lot of 95-98 450DA owners in the CSR. Let's start one!
OFFICIAL - 450DA Owner's Thread****
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DjDaoust
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748 Posts
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- Long Island N.Y.
I went back this afternoon, put a meter on the lights in question. These things are all reading 13.2v. Two on the port side circuit and two on the starboard circuitt. Each side is powered off of a 120v circuit breaker , I am assuming there is a device in line somewheres reducing the voltage? I Tested the galley outlets which are powered on a different 120v breaker and they are reading 120. I did try 12v bulbs but they only lasted a few minutes … They were cheap amazon bulbs… I am going to try some from a company I had decent luck with in past.
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748 Posts
- Location
- Long Island N.Y.
The hole in my dash is 5 inches.
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2,052 Posts
- Location
- Florida West Coast
One never knows what a P.O. may have done.
In my case with this being a dock queen, most everything electrical was virgin. (wish I could say that about the fresh water plumbing)
Anyway, I killed the 120 feed to those noisy fluorescents and rewired those two overhead lights into the 12 volt side.
Installed a series of long 12v lights in the ceiling and tied them to a rheostat/dimmer control.
The advantage to doing this is more light as needed independent of shore power or the genny.
Will look for and post photos soon.
In my case with this being a dock queen, most everything electrical was virgin. (wish I could say that about the fresh water plumbing)
Anyway, I killed the 120 feed to those noisy fluorescents and rewired those two overhead lights into the 12 volt side.
Installed a series of long 12v lights in the ceiling and tied them to a rheostat/dimmer control.
The advantage to doing this is more light as needed independent of shore power or the genny.
Will look for and post photos soon.
Joined
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2,052 Posts
- Location
- Florida West Coast
not sure, but this is probably the dimmer I used:
Amazon.com: Mini LED Dimmer Knob with Rotary Control Switch - pwm dimming for 12-24V LEDs, Fully Waterproof, dim up to 4.8A at 12V or 2.4A at 24V: car Automotive, Marine, Low Voltage Under Cabinet Lights : Tools & Home Improvement
These are the lights I used:
Amazon.com: CT CAPETRONIX 12v LED Interior Light Bar, 168LEDs 15.4IN 1700LM 10W, DC 12v Volt led Strip Lights with Switch, for Enclosed Cargo Trailer Car RV Van Truck Lorry Camper Boat Caravan Motorhome (6Pcs) : Automotive
Here's the factory flourescent:
![Image]()
The replacement:
![Image]()
![Image]()
Here's the rheostat installed into the 12volt switch set:
![Image]()
I have since added a self adhesive LED light strip under the galley cabinets with a second rheostat switch attached.
I have found the addition of lighting above and beyond the factory setup makes for a far less cave-like feeling, and lots of light for using the galley as well as doing office work.
In a previous post I did a similar rheostat/aqua LED light rope set-up for the optional stbd side salon fish lights this boat is equipped with.
I've also done the same with a warm light strip in the mid-cabin.
Loving the lights on this boat !
BEST !
RWS
Amazon.com: Mini LED Dimmer Knob with Rotary Control Switch - pwm dimming for 12-24V LEDs, Fully Waterproof, dim up to 4.8A at 12V or 2.4A at 24V: car Automotive, Marine, Low Voltage Under Cabinet Lights : Tools & Home Improvement
These are the lights I used:
Amazon.com: CT CAPETRONIX 12v LED Interior Light Bar, 168LEDs 15.4IN 1700LM 10W, DC 12v Volt led Strip Lights with Switch, for Enclosed Cargo Trailer Car RV Van Truck Lorry Camper Boat Caravan Motorhome (6Pcs) : Automotive
Here's the factory flourescent:
The replacement:
Here's the rheostat installed into the 12volt switch set:
I have since added a self adhesive LED light strip under the galley cabinets with a second rheostat switch attached.
I have found the addition of lighting above and beyond the factory setup makes for a far less cave-like feeling, and lots of light for using the galley as well as doing office work.
In a previous post I did a similar rheostat/aqua LED light rope set-up for the optional stbd side salon fish lights this boat is equipped with.
I've also done the same with a warm light strip in the mid-cabin.
Loving the lights on this boat !
BEST !
RWS
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1,530 Posts
- Location
- Patchogue, Great Southbay N.Y.
I also removed the fluorescent lights. I bought a two-pack of LED surface mount light fixtures. I took the fixture apart. Just removed the lens. And installed the fixture in the same spot as the fluorescent fixture was.
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2,052 Posts
- Location
- Florida West Coast
Here’s the link to the AQUARIUM LIGHTS thread:
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315 Posts
- Location
- Auckland, New Zealand
The electrician who installed the bow thruster replaced my ratty burl dash panel with a gloss black acrylic.
I think I'll order the burl panel from fpmarine, but its a good temporary solution.
Do you think I should go all black or burl?
![Image]()
I think I'll order the burl panel from fpmarine, but its a good temporary solution.
Do you think I should go all black or burl?
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2,052 Posts
- Location
- Florida West Coast
Once you go black......
![Image]()
well, y'all do remember the rest of that, don't you???
BEST !
RWS
well, y'all do remember the rest of that, don't you???
BEST !
RWS
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8,914 Posts
- Location
- Upper Chesapeake Bay MD
I love the look of the burl, black isn't my thing. Maybe carbon fiber, but I still like burl the best.
Looks fantastic though!
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315 Posts
- Location
- Auckland, New Zealand
I'm making this post here instead of the electronics Q&A thread because this relates to the 450DA specifically.
The issue of the Starter and House batteries combined as one bank for Port and one combined bank for Stbd drives me nuts when I'm out at anchor because the Admiral and I don't like running the generator. The problem is these batteries run down overnight leaving no juice for starting the engines and that's not good if there is an emergency e.g. the wind picks up and we need to move in the middle of the night. I have 4 x group 31 105aH deep cycle AGM's (generator is on its own starter battery). I don't want to go to the expense of separating house and starter with Victron kit (yet), although this would be nice, and a DC-DC charger won't work because the batteries are combined, so I'm investigating the Battery Bank Manager System (Clark Willix). This will allow me to add LiFePo4 into the mix with the current AGM setup. I think I have seen one other person mention it on the forum but not sure anyone else has used it. It allows two battery chemistry's to be combined without blowing up your Alternator regulator when charging.
Here's what I've done and I'm open to constructive criticism, so lets hear from you.
Disclaimer: I'm no expert on LiFePo4, so if you copy what I've done, make sure you get it checked by a certified marine electrician.
My Needs
1. Built a portable system using a 280Ah LifePo4 (I actually purchased the wrong battery as it doesn't have a Bluetooth BMS with individual cell monitoring, so I can't balance the damn thing).
![Image]()
![Image]()
2. Test it in the boat (not complete, but here is some preliminary tests).
![Image]()
3. Find a location for it to sit, but I still need to strap it down. Plus I'll relocate the BBMS control panel to a helm location at some point.
![Image]()
![Image]()
Further tests to follow.
Greg
The issue of the Starter and House batteries combined as one bank for Port and one combined bank for Stbd drives me nuts when I'm out at anchor because the Admiral and I don't like running the generator. The problem is these batteries run down overnight leaving no juice for starting the engines and that's not good if there is an emergency e.g. the wind picks up and we need to move in the middle of the night. I have 4 x group 31 105aH deep cycle AGM's (generator is on its own starter battery). I don't want to go to the expense of separating house and starter with Victron kit (yet), although this would be nice, and a DC-DC charger won't work because the batteries are combined, so I'm investigating the Battery Bank Manager System (Clark Willix). This will allow me to add LiFePo4 into the mix with the current AGM setup. I think I have seen one other person mention it on the forum but not sure anyone else has used it. It allows two battery chemistry's to be combined without blowing up your Alternator regulator when charging.
Here's what I've done and I'm open to constructive criticism, so lets hear from you.
Disclaimer: I'm no expert on LiFePo4, so if you copy what I've done, make sure you get it checked by a certified marine electrician.
My Needs
- Being able to start the engines at any time.
- Combined chemistry system (AGM + LiFePo4) to provide better power density
- Portable system in case I need to remove it.
- Compact LiFePo4 footprint that adds a good amount of power.
1. Built a portable system using a 280Ah LifePo4 (I actually purchased the wrong battery as it doesn't have a Bluetooth BMS with individual cell monitoring, so I can't balance the damn thing).
2. Test it in the boat (not complete, but here is some preliminary tests).
- Actively combines with the AGMs on the port bank, which gets the heaviest use. LiFePo4 current draw nominal.
- Shore power charging, the BBMS LiFePo4 draws as much current as it can from the charger (15A - 16A) and then separates itself at a pre-defined 98.5% SOC.
- Engine start is buffered by the AGM's I think. Theoretically the BBMS disconnects the LiFePo4 with a large current draw, but both engines started without it really noticing and it didn't blow the Class-T.
- Alternator pushed in about 6A at idle, which I expect will ramp up underway.
3. Find a location for it to sit, but I still need to strap it down. Plus I'll relocate the BBMS control panel to a helm location at some point.
Further tests to follow.
Greg
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2,052 Posts
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- Florida West Coast
For us here in SW Florida, the genny typically runs all the time in warmer weather.
It's in a sound enclosure.
We had a GREAT SOUTHERN flexible sound enclosure for the Northern Lights on the 10 Meter, which made for simple, easy access for servicing. Would do the same here in the event the Kohler died, and had a 12v fan which kept the genny components cool.
That enclosure was attached to a stainless steel tubular frame, and was easily removed.
Looks like that website is down, but you could easily replicate this basic design yourself with off the shelf products.
The two salon fridges run on 120v/12v when necessary.
Alternately, why not simply run a pair of oversized battery cables from your two thruster batteries to the engine room with a manual cut out switch?
Mine are topped off all the time, as they are tied to an independent charger.
Either one seems like a simple, doable, inexpensive solution that will still fit your requirements.
BEST !
RWS
It's in a sound enclosure.
We had a GREAT SOUTHERN flexible sound enclosure for the Northern Lights on the 10 Meter, which made for simple, easy access for servicing. Would do the same here in the event the Kohler died, and had a 12v fan which kept the genny components cool.
That enclosure was attached to a stainless steel tubular frame, and was easily removed.
Looks like that website is down, but you could easily replicate this basic design yourself with off the shelf products.
The two salon fridges run on 120v/12v when necessary.
Alternately, why not simply run a pair of oversized battery cables from your two thruster batteries to the engine room with a manual cut out switch?
Mine are topped off all the time, as they are tied to an independent charger.
Either one seems like a simple, doable, inexpensive solution that will still fit your requirements.
BEST !
RWS
Joined
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315 Posts
- Location
- Auckland, New Zealand
Hmm, so the sparky wired the Victron DC-DC charger for the thruster batteries off the house/starter bank because he tapped into the windlass cabling. I'm considering taking the AC charger feed from behind the fridge (that charges the fridge battery) right through to the thruster batteries and reversing the DC-DC charger, like you suggest, although it creates another risk which is that the thruster batteries go flat and now that the windlass runs off them, I can't lift the anchor in an emergency, which brings me back to my BBMS addon.
I wonder if the Great Southern enclosure will fit around the Westerbeke...
I wonder if the Great Southern enclosure will fit around the Westerbeke...
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2,052 Posts
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- Florida West Coast
I'm running a completely separate and isolated, dedicated 120v charger.
It is powered by a dedicated AC breaker in the panel wired directly to the charger, located in the floor hatch adjacent to the thruster hatch.
Personally I think the generator sound enclosure makes the best sense of all. My Kohler - Yanmar 3 cylinder burns about 1 gallon over 3.5 hours, and these generators are engineered, built and meant to be RUN !
BEST !
RWS
It is powered by a dedicated AC breaker in the panel wired directly to the charger, located in the floor hatch adjacent to the thruster hatch.
Personally I think the generator sound enclosure makes the best sense of all. My Kohler - Yanmar 3 cylinder burns about 1 gallon over 3.5 hours, and these generators are engineered, built and meant to be RUN !
BEST !
RWS
I’m looking to replace the westerbeke genset hose that come off the heat exchanger (raw water output) and runs to the exhaust via an anti siphon valve mounted in overhead. It’s a Dayco #7193 GST 1” ID. I spoke with dayco and they don’t have a replacement. Any recommendations appreciated. Thanks.
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315 Posts
- Location
- Auckland, New Zealand
Update
I was able to get out on anchor for a couple of days and can say that this new addition worked flawlessly. The main AGM batteries stayed at 13.2v the whole time regardless and the LiFePo4 dropped to 89% (I only have it charging to 98.5%) and no generator use at all. Alternators charged the AGM's quickly to full on the return home and the LiFePo4 automatically disconnected preventing any alternator damage. Once shore power was plugged in charging resumed on the LiFePo4 and disconnected before the charger hit float cycle.
Have to say I'm really happy with this.
Does anyone know what 110V breaker feeds the two galley outlets (one pair about the coutertop, fwd of the stove top and one pair on the lower cabinet round "bump-out", just aft the fwd head door (1997, galley to port). These outlets are not working even with all 110V breakers on. All the other outlets seems to be working. Thanks.
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5,431 Posts
- Location
- Tacoma, WA
I'm galley to starboard so slightly different but not much. You'll have two 120v breakers on your panel, starboard and port. You have GFCI outlets port and starboard. Mine are located in the main head medicine cabinet and under the galley sink. Make sure your shore power cable is solid and twist locked. I encountered a loose power connection and lost one leg of 120v temporarily.
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2,052 Posts
- Location
- Florida West Coast
1996 450 DA here, galley to port:
GFCI located at Port head, stbd head and galley sink.
BEST !
RWS
GFCI located at Port head, stbd head and galley sink.
BEST !
RWS
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