Official 280 Sundancer Thread

The pump creates its own back flow protection. If you are connected to city water, then you would get city water discharging into the bilge. However, after twelve years of winterizing, my feeling is that the chances of even getting six gallons are very low without disconnecting the cold in and hot out fittings. BTW, when the cold and hot feeds are removed (no city & pump power) the gravity drainage from the system is more nuisance than leak.
 
Does anyone know the PN's for cap and rotor on the 5.0 MPI?
 
I've read through the battery posts here and am curious if someone can help me out. I currently have 2 vita plate 8800MF Group 24 batteries that are 5 or 6 years old and an Autocraft M24-3 Group 24 Starting battery that I believe is 4 years old all installed by the previous owner. I believe the autocraft is connected to the 'On/Off' switch and the two Vita Plates are connected to the '1,2,both' switch. On my 2002, the 'on/off' switch is on the left side and the '1,2, both' is on the right, which I think is different than other years on the 280.

So I know I'm on the tail end of these batteries lifespan so was planning to replace proactively. It looks like the Vita Plates are the same battery as the Autocraft and they are all 'Starting' batteries. I've had no problems with battery life to this point with accessories for the 3 years I've owned the boat. I typically only use the batteries for the radio while on the hook for a few 2-4 hrs at a time and rotate between battery switch 1 and 2 each time out and turn off the other batteries.

I've attached a pic of my battery layout in case anyone can confirm that my assumption is right on which batteries are connected to which switches.

So my question is whether I should just get the 3 autocraft starting batteries to replace them since they worked good for me to this point and they are cheap to replace? If there's a better way such as dual purpose batteries mixed with a starting battery, I'd like to understand what my layout would be. I would assume I could replace the dual purpose where the vita plates are and put another Autocraft Starting right where the current one is.
 

Attachments

  • 940D62B0-D796-48A6-9771-49CB722E408A.jpeg
    940D62B0-D796-48A6-9771-49CB722E408A.jpeg
    255.1 KB · Views: 149
It looks like the forward Vita-Plate and Autocraft are connected together and should be on the 1,2, both switch. It’s really your call. The way you use the dc system is not going to tax the starting batteries. Should your method of use change, then it’s a different story.
 
Henry Boyd said:
It looks like the forward Vita-Plate and Autocraft are connected together and should be on the 1,2, both switch. It’s really your call. The way you use the dc system is not going to tax the starting batteries. Should your method of use change, then it’s a different story.
Click to expand...
Was the stock batteries Group 27? For only $8 more per battery, I could get Group 27 and it looks like there's space in the battery trays.
 
todd3683 said:
Was the stock batteries Group 27? For only $8 more per battery, I could get Group 27 and it looks like there's space in the battery trays.
Click to expand...
There's actually no such thing as "stock" batteries. Sea Ray does not ship boats with batteries so it's up to the selling dealer to install what they think is best. But, regardless, what was done back then has no factor on what you do. Do what's best for the way you use the boat. That said, like Henry said, with how you're using the boat, you're good with all of them being starting batteries and just replace like for like.

Group 24 is PLENTY big enough for starting small blocks. Whatever you decide, stick with either Deka or Interstate marine batteries.

But, yes, group 27's will fit just fine in those boxes.
 
I feel like after winter storage this year there is a bit more throttle resistance/force needed to put my boat into gear for forward or reverse. I have a single engine 494MAG Bravo 3 on my 2003 280. Is there something that I should be lubricating that might help loosen it up a bit?
 
trdehmer said:
I feel like after winter storage this year there is a bit more throttle resistance/force needed to put my boat into gear for forward or reverse. I have a single engine 494MAG Bravo 3 on my 2003 280. Is there something that I should be lubricating that might help loosen it up a bit?
Click to expand...

Is the issue just shifting into gear, or both gear change and throttle operation?
There is a friction screw on the control. You might try adjusting that as a start if both functions are affected. Its a no cost easy DIY, so no harm, no foul, if it doesn't change anything. And if it does, lots of time and agro saved.

If its a shift only issue, there are two cables, one from the control to the engine, then from the engine to the drive via the transom assembly. These can be a source of wear and friction. But there can also be issues within the B3. Personally, I'd have a tech look at it because unless its the control, or control to engine cable, the boat needs to be out of the water to get the drive off. At this stage in the season you want to have the best possible information available before you go hauling the boat back out.
 
trdehmer said:
I feel like after winter storage this year there is a bit more throttle resistance/force needed to put my boat into gear for forward or reverse. I have a single engine 494MAG Bravo 3 on my 2003 280. Is there something that I should be lubricating that might help loosen it up a bit?
Click to expand...
How old is your lower shift cable? It's a maintenance item/replacement
 
Henry Boyd said:
Is the issue just shifting into gear, or both gear change and throttle operation?
There is a friction screw on the control. You might try adjusting that as a start if both functions are affected. Its a no cost easy DIY, so no harm, no foul, if it doesn't change anything. And if it does, lots of time and agro saved.

If its a shift only issue, there are two cables, one from the control to the engine, then from the engine to the drive via the transom assembly. These can be a source of wear and friction. But there can also be issues within the B3. Personally, I'd have a tech look at it because unless its the control, or control to engine cable, the boat needs to be out of the water to get the drive off. At this stage in the season you want to have the best possible information available before you go hauling the boat back out.
Click to expand...

I would stay its general throttle operation - goes into gear just fine, but seems to take more resistance/force than I'd like. I believe my cable has been replaced or adjusted within the last 5 years.

Thus, adjusting the friction screw would be simple to try first. Question is - how do I get at that and know what/where to adjust?? My throttle is like in the photo for a single engine.
 

Attachments

  • Thottle 2.jpg
    Thottle 2.jpg
    103.1 KB · Views: 186
trdehmer said:
I would stay its general throttle operation - goes into gear just fine, but seems to take more resistance/force than I'd like. I believe my cable has been replaced or adjusted within the last 5 years.

Thus, adjusting the friction screw would be simple to try first. Question is - how do I get at that and know what/where to adjust?? My throttle is like in the photo for a single engine.
Click to expand...

The bravo should not be shifted with the engine off. But you can run the engine and disengage the shift from the throttle by pressing the black button at the “hub” of the shift handle. This is normally to allow you to idle the engine at a higher rpm. But you can also use it to adjust the friction nut.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,217
Messages
1,428,775
Members
61,114
Latest member
Hercy911
Back
Top