420/44 DB Owners Club

Carpediem44DB said:
View attachment 109741
hey guys, has anyone ever removed these valances? I removed the forward ones in the past but can’t figure out how these are installed. The fabric needs to be tightened up on these.
Thanks
Click to expand...
FYI these valances are held in place with the plastic Christmas tree studs so they just pry out.
 
  • Like
Reactions: AEO
NorCalRobert said:
I Hydraulic swim platform that came with the boat and I would like to carry a dinghy on it, what size and weight do you have and any pros or cons about having that excess weight that far aft and what about structural stress.
I am looking at a 11.5 Zodiac rib center console but a bit concerned about the weight and considering just towing it but then there is the risk of getting tow rope caught in the props.
I searched the forum on this but found more info on Davits than dinghys
Click to expand...
A buddy has a 420 SD and installed a hydraulic platform last year. He carries a 11 foot Mercury with a 40 HP OB on it and travels all over the Delta with it. It has to weigh in at over 500lbs.
Carpe Diem
 
  • Like
Reactions: AEO
boaterholic said:
I have old hard water spots on the exterior glass that I'm trying to remove. I've tried CLR, vinegar, even muriatic acid but no luck. Anyone tried and found anything that has removed really stubborn water spots?
Thanks
Click to expand...
The guy I sold my 44 to used a product that polished the spots off the glass, looked brand spanking new when he was done. Been meaning to ask what he used because my memory failed me when I was needing to do that on the 506.
I'll let you know if I can get it out of him.
Carpe Diem
 
  • Like
Reactions: AEO
Carpediem44DB said:
The guy I sold my 44 to used a product that polished the spots off the glass, looked brand spanking new when he was done. Been meaning to ask what he used because my memory failed me when I was needing to do that on the 506.
I'll let you know if I can get it out of him.
Carpe Diem
Click to expand...
Thank you!
 
NorCalRobert said:
I Hydraulic swim platform that came with the boat and I would like to carry a dinghy on it, what size and weight do you have and any pros or cons about having that excess weight that far aft and what about structural stress.
I am looking at a 11.5 Zodiac rib center console but a bit concerned about the weight and considering just towing it but then there is the risk of getting tow rope caught in the props.
I searched the forum on this but found more info on Davits than dinghys
Click to expand...

Was contemplating the same thing for a jetski.

I have extended my tabs and added a second ram now it’s time to decide on a safe weight.

Below is a link I found but judging from feedback I received from some other SR Sedan Bridge owners on FB it seems you don’t really want to go above 500lbs. So there goes the Jetski idea..

http://www.nautical-structures.com/...B2Utq_1nWRe-mkk41DuOSp-iUq64t78-iaqkzrEEHy5gg
 
Last edited:
boaterholic said:
I have old hard water spots on the exterior glass that I'm trying to remove. I've tried CLR, vinegar, even muriatic acid but no luck. Anyone tried and found anything that has removed really stubborn water spots?
Thanks
Click to expand...
The Guy I sold Carpe Diem used this and it worked great. I am ordering some today to use on the 506. I've got alot of glass to do! It is a product you use a polisher to apply. Tutorials abound on YouTube.
www.carpro-us.com/glass/carpro-ceriglass-polish-500ml-17oz/?matchtype=e&network=o&device=c&keyword=&campaign=359552943&adgroup=pla-4586200438592285&msclkid=dbced6774eb712284852b7789253d670&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=**LP%20Shop%20-%20Catch%20All&utm_term=4586200438592285&utm_content=Catch%20All
 
NorCalRobert said:
I Hydraulic swim platform that came with the boat and I would like to carry a dinghy on it, what size and weight do you have and any pros or cons about having that excess weight that far aft and what about structural stress.
I am looking at a 11.5 Zodiac rib center console but a bit concerned about the weight and considering just towing it but then there is the risk of getting tow rope caught in the props.
I searched the forum on this but found more info on Davits than dinghys
Click to expand...

My GHS platform has a sticker on it that says 600lb max. You would have to verify, but recall someone saying it was designed to a safety factor of 4. So if you are at or a little over 600, you are probably ok, especially if you are not in rough seas.
 
  • Like
Reactions: AEO
PRESTO XL 500. No issues in rough seas or performance. My dinghy is a 11ft Apex with 25hp. Around 450lbs.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    78.2 KB · Views: 103
  • Like
Reactions: AEO
bajturner said:
Finished the fridge install last week. Was in a hurry to get it done so didn't take any pictures along the way. It is a Vitrifrigo DW250IXN4-EFV, dual compressor fridge upper (door), freezer lower (drawer). I am very impressed so far. This is a much higher quality appliance than the old Norcold. Runs much colder at at setting of 5/9 than the Norcold did at 4/5. Virtually silent. Power draw is comparable- lower if only one compressor is running, higher if both are on. Overall duty cycle seems much lower...will monitor.

General process:
- Remove old fridge.
- Relocate microwave and refrgerator 120V AC outlets outside of the refrigerator compartment (I put them on the outboard / back side of the cabinet substructure ...lots of free wire to do it). They are in the way otherwise.
- Relocate microwave vent pipe as it is also a bit in the way. I put it above, to the back of the microwave cabinet substructure (did a bit of a half-assed job). Considered removing it since the new microwave doesn't need it, but doesn't hurt to remove excess heat.
- Widen the opening in the front cabinet veneer to the same width as the substructure behind it.
- Add 24"x24"x1/2" plywood to the floor of the refrigerator opening to raise the new fridge such that the top bezel covers the cabinet opening.
- Connect both fridge and freezer 12V lines to existing 12V feed. Plug both 120V AC plug into relocated outlet.
- Connect drain line. The existing barb was a bit big for the line from the new fridge. A bit of heat and it slid on.
- Slide the new fridge in.
- Predrill and install 10 screws (not supplied).
- Turn on the breakers.

View attachment 109945

View attachment 109946

View attachment 109947

Hopefully it is reliable!
Click to expand...
can
bajturner said:
Finished the fridge install last week. Was in a hurry to get it done so didn't take any pictures along the way. It is a Vitrifrigo DW250IXN4-EFV, dual compressor fridge upper (door), freezer lower (drawer). I am very impressed so far. This is a much higher quality appliance than the old Norcold. Runs much colder at at setting of 5/9 than the Norcold did at 4/5. Virtually silent. Power draw is comparable- lower if only one compressor is running, higher if both are on. Overall duty cycle seems much lower...will monitor.

General process:
- Remove old fridge.
- Relocate microwave and refrgerator 120V AC outlets outside of the refrigerator compartment (I put them on the outboard / back side of the cabinet substructure ...lots of free wire to do it). They are in the way otherwise.
- Relocate microwave vent pipe as it is also a bit in the way. I put it above, to the back of the microwave cabinet substructure (did a bit of a half-assed job). Considered removing it since the new microwave doesn't need it, but doesn't hurt to remove excess heat.
- Widen the opening in the front cabinet veneer to the same width as the substructure behind it.
- Add 24"x24"x1/2" plywood to the floor of the refrigerator opening to raise the new fridge such that the top bezel covers the cabinet opening.
- Connect both fridge and freezer 12V lines to existing 12V feed. Plug both 120V AC plug into relocated outlet.
- Connect drain line. The existing barb was a bit big for the line from the new fridge. A bit of heat and it slid on.
- Slide the new fridge in.
- Predrill and install 10 screws (not supplied).
- Turn on the breakers.

View attachment 109945

View attachment 109946

View attachment 109947

Hopefully it is reliable!
Click to expand...
can you let me know the make of the microwave the hole thing looks great
 
System Monitor help.

I've been reading and trying locate solutions regarding my systems monitor acting up. Thought it was simple short but definitely beyond that. Would work fine at start f trip and the towards end start flashing alarms. "Data bridge failure" Sometimes no alarm. Went haywire yesterday flashing all sorts of alarms. I had to disconnect power to stop. Flounder pounder provides some good info: https://www.searay-parts.com/Articles.asp?ID=239.

At this point I'm thinking coax might be bad as that is where the data originates. Anyone know where the interface module is located? Trying to save time rather than dismantle helm and start the trace there and hoping someone here knows. I've read on the 520's the module is within engine room, port side bulkhead. Does anyone have an experience on the 420/44?

I'm hoping that's all it is otherwise this will be a real PIA. Thanks for the help!
 
boaterholic said:
I have old hard water spots on the exterior glass that I'm trying to remove. I've tried CLR, vinegar, even muriatic acid but no luck. Anyone tried and found anything that has removed really stubborn water spots?
Thanks
Click to expand...

I used Menzerna Heavy Cut 400 on a forced rotation dual-action polisher with a foam pad
https://www.amazon.com/Menzerna-MENHC400Q-Heavy-Cut-400/dp/B013CQN2GC/

Keep the pad moving as you do not want to generate a lot of heat on the glass... It worked great for me.
 
todd choops said:
can

can you let me know the make of the microwave the hole thing looks great
Click to expand...

One thing I would say is I wish the microwave mounted completely flush. I think it would look better. I had trouble finding a convection microwave oven that can truly be mounted in a totally enclosed cabinet.

It's possible the way the trim kit mounts to the oven could be modified to make the install almost perfectly flush.

Other than that, the oven is a significant improvement over the original in terms of operation and functionality.
 
Tenacious said:
System Monitor help.

I've been reading and trying locate solutions regarding my systems monitor acting up. Thought it was simple short but definitely beyond that. Would work fine at start f trip and the towards end start flashing alarms. "Data bridge failure" Sometimes no alarm. Went haywire yesterday flashing all sorts of alarms. I had to disconnect power to stop. Flounder pounder provides some good info: https://www.searay-parts.com/Articles.asp?ID=239.

At this point I'm thinking coax might be bad as that is where the data originates. Anyone know where the interface module is located? Trying to save time rather than dismantle helm and start the trace there and hoping someone here knows. I've read on the 520's the module is within engine room, port side bulkhead. Does anyone have an experience on the 420/44?

I'm hoping that's all it is otherwise this will be a real PIA. Thanks for the help!
Click to expand...

The other end is in the Bilge behind the ladder. It is to the left of the DC panel on the bulkhead wall. There is also a breaker for the system monitor on the DC panel incase you need to disable the system. It is labeled. Mine was acting up so I unplugged the coax and harness and reattached. I keep looking at the display expecting to see the data link failed, but it’s been good for a few week now….knock on wood.
 
anyone know what size the duct bills go in the macerator pump mine is not working it just runs and the level stays the same its been my experience this is the problem
 
saopm said:
The other end is in the Bilge behind the ladder. It is to the left of the DC panel on the bulkhead wall. There is also a breaker for the system monitor on the DC panel incase you need to disable the system. It is labeled. Mine was acting up so I unplugged the coax and harness and reattached. I keep looking at the display expecting to see the data link failed, but it’s been good for a few week now….knock on wood.
Click to expand...

Thanks, yes I located exactly where you stated. Same as the 520 more or less. I bought 25' of RJ6 with thought of bypassing existing coax altogether as a test, but when I hit the reset button on the monitor last night, all appeared fine. Despite this I unplugged the coax from both the monitor and module. Cleaned and reconnected solidly. The connectors appear to be okay but if this continues I will replace. I also replaced all connections under the helm (red/blk/org/blu) to be certain I did not have bad ground (blk) or any of the other issues were caused by this. Pretty straight forward. All is working fine now. What seems odd (and this occurred the last 3 X out (2 hour +/- run) is that toward the end of the trip I see the "data bridge failure" message. Alarm goes off and I end up disconnecting the black to shut off as it becomes a nuisance. (And no, there is no problem with motors/etc...) No reason for this but it happens. Maybe heat in engine room? IDK. I will keep eye on it but maybe just cleaning the connectors and harness will do the trick. Like everything else, it's a great system when it works but when it doesn't, my OCD takes over and I get obsessed with finding a solution.

Thanks for reply. I will keep you posted.
 
  • Like
Reactions: AEO
Tenacious said:
Thanks, yes I located exactly where you stated. Same as the 520 more or less. I bought 25' of RJ6 with thought of bypassing existing coax altogether as a test, but when I hit the reset button on the monitor last night, all appeared fine. Despite this I unplugged the coax from both the monitor and module. Cleaned and reconnected solidly. The connectors appear to be okay but if this continues I will replace. I also replaced all connections under the helm (red/blk/org/blu) to be certain I did not have bad ground (blk) or any of the other issues were caused by this. Pretty straight forward. All is working fine now. What seems odd (and this occurred the last 3 X out (2 hour +/- run) is that toward the end of the trip I see the "data bridge failure" message. Alarm goes off and I end up disconnecting the black to shut off as it becomes a nuisance. (And no, there is no problem with motors/etc...) No reason for this but it happens. Maybe heat in engine room? IDK. I will keep eye on it but maybe just cleaning the connectors and harness will do the trick. Like everything else, it's a great system when it works but when it doesn't, my OCD takes over and I get obsessed with finding a solution.

Thanks for reply. I will keep you posted.
Click to expand...
The electronics in that display get hot and it eventually starts going haywire. Look under the display at the potting behind; if it is bubbled and looks cooked you are probably doomed to replace at some point in the future.
I have the engine room interface module still from my boat - you are welcome to try that also. I will say that moving the monitoring over to the Maretron system I installed was one of the best things I've done to the boat....
 
techmitch said:
Not sure of your duckbill size without looking it up, but I do know there is an updated diaphragm while your there.
Click to expand...



todd choops said:
anyone know what size the duct bills go in the macerator pump mine is not working it just runs and the level stays the same its been my experience this is the problem
Click to expand...


Mine has dometic system. Duct bills are easy to replace but get yourself some gloves and a respirator. (Not that bad). Accessing each pump is the issue, unless you weigh 100# and grease yourself up, it will be tight. There are four per side.

I do not recall if I used 1.5" or 2". The vacuum on my starboard side would bleed air. Once apart I found a small piece of cellophane that some flushed from the starboard head. It was stuck in one of the bills. That's all is tacks. Good luck.

These guys are "the" source to go to fo info and parts. https://seacoastservices.com/

Amazon also sells the duckbills: https://www.amazon.com/Dometic-3853...ywords=Vacuflush+Parts&qid=1628602339&sr=8-17
 
  • Like
Reactions: AEO
ttmott said:
The electronics in that display get hot and it eventually starts going haywire. Look under the display at the potting behind; if it is bubbled and looks cooked you are probably doomed to replace at some point in the future.
I have the engine room interface module still from my boat - you are welcome to try that also. I will say that moving the monitoring over to the Maretron system I installed was one of the best things I've done to the boat....
Click to expand...

When you say "potting" are you referring to the hard plastic that covers/seal the rear? of the display and wires? Almost looks like it was injected hot plastic?

I replaced this display about 5 years back. Stupid money but aesthetically, the old one looked terrible. (I may still have old one put away somewhere and have been looking for it). The new one has no bubbling at the rear whatsoever though. The only issue I saw was the red wire coming out from the back was off a bit from the factory hole in the helm, and caused a crimp in the wired wire when mounted through the existing hole. I just discovered this when troubleshooting the issue this past week. I never actually affixed the two nuts which actually hold the display down after replacing. It sat flat and never moved and really wasn't a priority for me. I wonder if I created an issue by being lazy and not securing. Ugh!
 
  • Like
Reactions: AEO
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,206
Messages
1,428,571
Members
61,109
Latest member
Minnervos
Back
Top