58 Sedan Bridge Official Thread
- Thread starter Skip
- Start date
- Mar 25, 2008
- 5,534
- Boat Info
- 2006 Sea Ray 58 DB
- Engines
- MAN CRM V8-900s, Twin Disc Drives; Onan 21.5 Generator
That's a good question! My production # is 58DB534, but I can't believe they made that many '06's! Sea Ray Customer Service could answer that...or maybe @Capt. Rusty Higgins might know...
- Mar 25, 2008
- 5,534
- Boat Info
- 2006 Sea Ray 58 DB
- Engines
- MAN CRM V8-900s, Twin Disc Drives; Onan 21.5 Generator
@swaterhouse - Scott - let me know if you got my PM of the Common Drains OK.
ANCHOR POSSIBILITIES?
Ours is a stainless Delta, presumably original. The Parts Manual lists a "60-lb polished SS plow" and Lewmar's site lists a 25kg/55-lb DTX stainless Delta with dimensions approximately the same as what we've got. The toe lands hard against the stainless hull protector at the stem...
What other anchors might fit well? And rest on the davit/rollers naturally? Has anyone changed theirs to something else?
I have some long-term clue about what anchors might work best in the holding grounds substrate/areas we frequent -- mostly mud, ranging from packed to loose to slime -- and FWIW we've had best luck over the years here with both SuperMAX and Fortress adjustable anchors.
Of course recommendations are always welcome, too, but I'm mostly just hoping to save time making mock-ups from templates.
-Chris
Ours is a stainless Delta, presumably original. The Parts Manual lists a "60-lb polished SS plow" and Lewmar's site lists a 25kg/55-lb DTX stainless Delta with dimensions approximately the same as what we've got. The toe lands hard against the stainless hull protector at the stem...
What other anchors might fit well? And rest on the davit/rollers naturally? Has anyone changed theirs to something else?
I have some long-term clue about what anchors might work best in the holding grounds substrate/areas we frequent -- mostly mud, ranging from packed to loose to slime -- and FWIW we've had best luck over the years here with both SuperMAX and Fortress adjustable anchors.
Of course recommendations are always welcome, too, but I'm mostly just hoping to save time making mock-ups from templates.
-Chris
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No dock pressure over-ride in the freshwater system?
Just today I happened to be able to notice our freshwater pump began running -- on demand -- even though we were hooked up to dock water. I usually turn off the freshwater pump breaker when connected to dock water, but just hadn't gotten to that step yet this morning when I discovered the potential issue.
Along our "delivery" trip, we ran out of boat water one day... which seemed a bit strange, since we started with full tanks and we'd been hooking up to shore water at every stop. Now I'm assuming that was because we were actually using boat water more often than we thought.
The earlier freshwater pump crapped out on the trip, too, and we replaced it en route... so I'm assuming (for now) that the new pump is acting like it should.
Haven't had a boat before where demand would cause the freshwater pump to run if dockside pressure existed, hence my surprise.
Or... maybe it's about a difference in dockside versus boat pump pressure? Low dockside pressure maybe means the 55 PSI freshwater pump fills in? We've been in a few places where dockside pressure wasn't stellar... and I wouldn't be surprised if our new home dock isn't delivering 55 PSI.
Thoughts?
-Chris
Just today I happened to be able to notice our freshwater pump began running -- on demand -- even though we were hooked up to dock water. I usually turn off the freshwater pump breaker when connected to dock water, but just hadn't gotten to that step yet this morning when I discovered the potential issue.
Along our "delivery" trip, we ran out of boat water one day... which seemed a bit strange, since we started with full tanks and we'd been hooking up to shore water at every stop. Now I'm assuming that was because we were actually using boat water more often than we thought.
The earlier freshwater pump crapped out on the trip, too, and we replaced it en route... so I'm assuming (for now) that the new pump is acting like it should.
Haven't had a boat before where demand would cause the freshwater pump to run if dockside pressure existed, hence my surprise.
Or... maybe it's about a difference in dockside versus boat pump pressure? Low dockside pressure maybe means the 55 PSI freshwater pump fills in? We've been in a few places where dockside pressure wasn't stellar... and I wouldn't be surprised if our new home dock isn't delivering 55 PSI.
Thoughts?
-Chris
missnmountains
Active Member
On ours the pump overrides dockside. We always have to turn the breaker off once the water his hooked to the dock. And yes we forget once and a while until I hear the pump running.
Ken
Ken
Robert Serviss
Member
- Feb 21, 2021
- 114
- Boat Info
- 2006 Sea Ray 58 sedan bridge Shipfaced
2013 Sea Hunt 225 ultra lil Shipfaced
- Engines
- MAN CRM 900
I just had to replace the pump due to this. I’m going to start turning off the water pump when on dockside water.
Robert Serviss
Member
- Feb 21, 2021
- 114
- Boat Info
- 2006 Sea Ray 58 sedan bridge Shipfaced
2013 Sea Hunt 225 ultra lil Shipfaced
- Engines
- MAN CRM 900
Has anyone installed a isolation boost transformer in their boat. I’m having a issue with the salon AC Units which are newer going into low voltage mode when I’m at marinas that only have 208 volts.
Mine came with one installed from the factory.
missnmountains
Active Member
I think he is referring to replacing it. It is very heavy.
Ken
Ken
Hah! OK, and thanks, guys! Very good to know ours is working as it should! And slightly comforting to find the explanation for why our onboard supply went south that one time, when we hadn't expected it.
-Chris
swaterhouse
Well-Known Member
It was an option in 2006, so he may not have one.
I would think it would be relatively easy to install since it was a factory option, but yes it will be massively heavy, and you will need to run the shore power feed lines to/from where it is installed.
The factory location is just aft and outboard of the port thruster battery banks. I used it as a seat when working on my hydraulic platform pump leak a few weeks ago.
swaterhouse
Well-Known Member
Finally enjoying some time on the boat, despite the fact we left a day late for our trip because we not only have fridge issues but the AC's quit as well! We spent all day Saturday rigging up a barnacle buster flush system for the AC and doing a "quick flush" as just pushing dock water through didn't solve the problem. We will head home later this week to do another flush, this time for more than just two hours for all 4 zones. We have to reset the AC every once in a while, but eventually the boat cools down.
The fridge just seems to flake out every once in a while, it will get up to 40degrees and flash service. Cycling the power seems to get it working again. We cleaned the air vent, it was caked in dust, but that hasn't stopped the issue. Our only allowed AC/refrigeration contractor in our marina is booking 6-8 weeks out, so we will make due!
Anyhow, we are in Mystic Seaport for a couple of days. This is such a cool spot where you and the other Marina guests are the only ones on the grounds of a museum after hours.
Next week we are off to Nantucket, with somewhere in between yet to be determined!
The fridge just seems to flake out every once in a while, it will get up to 40degrees and flash service. Cycling the power seems to get it working again. We cleaned the air vent, it was caked in dust, but that hasn't stopped the issue. Our only allowed AC/refrigeration contractor in our marina is booking 6-8 weeks out, so we will make due!
Anyhow, we are in Mystic Seaport for a couple of days. This is such a cool spot where you and the other Marina guests are the only ones on the grounds of a museum after hours.
Next week we are off to Nantucket, with somewhere in between yet to be determined!
- Mar 25, 2008
- 5,534
- Boat Info
- 2006 Sea Ray 58 DB
- Engines
- MAN CRM V8-900s, Twin Disc Drives; Onan 21.5 Generator
Hi Scott,
Our SubZero Freezer went out two years ago. Parts were covered under the 12 year warranty, but labor was "flat rate" to replace the parts - $1750 - what a ripoff! Only took the tech 3 hours.
I'm working with my fwd A/C as well - HI PS - trying a high pressure fw flush - not much flow, but it will work off a hose. I'll have to barnacle bust next. Sea Ray must have heated the 1/2" ID hose to fit it on the 3/4" manifold in front of the stbd engine. I found the fwd A/C outlet goes to the port common drain next to the water tank, So it's "hose rigging" time for me as well.
Robert Serviss
Member
- Feb 21, 2021
- 114
- Boat Info
- 2006 Sea Ray 58 sedan bridge Shipfaced
2013 Sea Hunt 225 ultra lil Shipfaced
- Engines
- MAN CRM 900
This is what’s installed on my boat however it doesn’t come with the boost function that I require and the company that made these and a retro booster kit no longer makes parts for the marine industry.
We had severe flow problems with our indoor ACs units... I knew in advance when I arrived at the boat that 2 of the 4 (saloon and forward) weren't working, but I hoped simply cleaning the strainer would fix it... at least enough. Au contraire.
Next, I wanted to install the Groco flush adapters to try a whole-system flush with Barnacle Buster. Couldn't budge the discharge fitting on the strainer. (More on this, below).
Called the local pro in Ft. Myers, and he began flushing individual lines from the 1:4 manifold. Hard block on the forward unit; even his diluted Acid Magic wasn't getting through. Got the saloon unit working, and while he was at it, he also installed my Groco adapters. Took two of them, him standing on a pipe wrench with a 2' extension, to break the original discharge fitting loose. During all that, though, we (he) discovered the strainer bowl was fractured and several of the bowl-mounting screw threads were stripped. Ordered new strainers for both indoor and bridge systems.
Pro returned, installed new strainers (and my Groco adapters), and worked more on flushing the forward unit... this time trying from both directions, i.e., at the unit, and from the manifold). Hard block, both directions. He eventually began using undiluted Acid Magic, and after an hour or so he finally got some movement... and then eventually the system cleared. (I'm guessing the unit hadn't worked in years.)
Thought we were home free. Au contraire, again. The forward system ran for a couple hours and then again showed the HP error. Pro came back and decided maybe it was a bad HP sensor/switch, so he replaced it with a used spare he happened to have on hand.
Thought we were home free, again. Au contraire, yet again. The system ran for about 12 hours and again showed an HP error. Joe replaced the HP sensor/switch yet again...
And it's been working since then. (He says, looking around for some wood to knock.)
-Chris
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Ummm... Jeff, can you elaborate on how to get "the AV rack" out? Or even what constitutes "the AV rack"?
Remove both upper and lower cabinet doors? And I'm pretty sure the drawer will come out before having identified "the AV rack"...
I looked at the thing a bit this morning, can't exactly tell what's supposed to move, or how anything comes out or apart.
I'm OK tracing/understanding/re-doing the wiring and electronics, but I'm really not so great at cabinetry... so I haven't been able to tell what's joined, where.
And then I got distracted on a different project, proving the original microwave doesn't work, identifying/ordering a like replacement, etc.... <sigh>...
-Chris
Charles Industries no longer manufacturers the Iso-Boost nor for that matter any marine transformer.
There is a product called Yacht Boost that does the same function but I've never seen one in operation. They make an15KVA and an 18KVA
