Official 320 Dancer Thread

I think I just realized that is no synchronizer gauge on my 320. I don't know for sure. But, I only went with the standard Smart Craft Gauges. I am looking at the Northstar plotters that provide Smartcraft readings. Does anyone know if this is the case? The joy of waiting for warm weather.

Also, how do you all get to the generator with V's on your 320's to check oil...

2007 - 320 - 350 Mag's V-Drives
 
skolbe,
I found the easiest way to access this service point on my 02 320 with 5KW Westerbeke was by putting a knee on each engine's exhaust riser, then sort of leaning forward to place a hand on the generator; once balanced I'd pull the dipstick. To get to the generator strainer, on the 02 I would climb past the starboard engine and along the narrow space between starboard engine and the fuel (i think) tank on the stbd side to get to the seacock and strainer. This is the difficulty with that boat...really tight in the engine spaces.

regards
Skip
 
Thanks, that is what I am beginning to realize. I was warned. But it's starting to sink in. Changing the impeller ought to be fun.
 
Skolbe-

The engine Syncro feature came with the Smart Craft system view option with the dash monitor. We were surprised by all the info that system will show. My other favorite is the " Rudder display". It took a season but, This option was worth the cost. On a side note, did you get the uderswim platform lighting? It's quote the conversation getter.

63 days till splash!

Mike
 
No, no swim platform lighting. I boat in muddy waters - therefore - I don't think we could see too much. But they look cool.
 
Skolbe-

If the check book is still out here are a couple of ideas we did that might interest you.
I took the Fridge door inserts out and had them made in brushed stainless. It looks great next to that stainless microwave and just as good on the back deck. I liked the coment " Oh- you have the upgraded Hi-end fridge " The Admiral loved that!

We also put a rod holder on the transome locker door and put a Newport gas grill out back. Great for hanging out on the swim platform cooking dinner. The grill will fit well in the locker too.

We ordered a Taylor Made FastBack camper top for early spring and fall ( Hunter green ). Works just as advertised. Easy to install and has great window screens for good air flow.

I also upgraded the Speakers in the arch to the factory Polk's, put in Four s.s rod holders , and added an HDTV reciever for the flat screens.

We bought new in winter too. The days will fly by.

Mike
 
Yes, the checkbook is still flowing. How much is the Taylor Made Fastback? Where did you buy it. Did you just buy a piece of SS for the fridge or did you order it?
 
Skolbe,

The access in the engine compartment is tight, no doubt about it. That's about my only complaint.

My boat is an '02 (in fact it is Skip's old 320), and as such did not come with Smartcraft gauges. However, the engines are Smartcraft and I plan to add the gauges this spring. It sounds like your boat doesn't have the SC5000 (the large LCD Smartcraft display), if so your sync will be displayed on the Speedmeter LCD display.

For my 320, I've decided to go with what I think you have - that is, two SC1000 tach's and a matching SC1000 speedo. I have no room for the SC5000 without moving around a lot of stuff. I was able to order the helm panel from SeaRay. For now, I'll reuse the existing analog 4-way gauges as they still work well and that way I don't have to replace the fuel tank sender units with Smartcraft ones. That is the nice thing about my situation - I can add more parts later.

BTW, you can download the manual for the SC1000 setup from the Merc website. I had the SC1000 system in my 260DA and really liked it. One of my analog tach's is a bit flakey so rather than replace it I'm going to upgrade.

One other thing - Skip added a custom camper canvas setup to the boat - it looks very much like a factory install. Check with your local canvas shops. We really love the camper canvas!

-CJ
 
Yes I have the SC1000 - so the sync is on there? Thats great. I am looking at the Northstar GPS's since they will display all of the smartcraft readouts. But looking at all of my electronics options...
 
Skolbe-

The Norcold fridge manual shows the size for the face inserts. I called a local S.S shop and had them cut. I paid 36.00 total.

The Fast back we ordered from Taylor made direct. Our dealer wanted 4400.00 installed complete. Taylor made was 2595.00 list. for the kit. I read on another web site to ask for the boat show spaecial. They knocked off 500.00! total with shipping was 2095.00.

To insall you have to drill a few holes and rivet three top clips to your rear sun shade frame. You will add some velco type fasteners next. It will seem hoaky at first. Put these in place on a warm day and you wont be disappointed. The photos in the direction make a lot of assumptions. If you go through with it and want some detail pics let me know and I'll shoot a couple.

Mike
 
FYI- Swim platform Lights-
The 320 dash is pre-wired for this option. The lights are the ones you will find at Overtons. In the bilge on the bulkhead wall you will find a terminal block for accesories. We copied wiring and thru hull fitting with what we saw at the dealership and save$$ DIY. There is a core in the platform. Pre-drill your mounting holes and screw in tight. Un screw and fill the hole with marine silicone and put the fastener back in. Wipe a little silicone over the fastener when done.

Mike
 
What are you talking about?

Mike, What are you talking about.....Swim platform lights? Where do you have them and what do they look like, I'm going to install under water trim tab lights this spring and I'm wondering which switch to use on the dash as well, Please explain in further detail my friend...
 
The Searay Factory option is A Barnegat Under swim platform light 12v P/N QL-SPL. It is sold through Overtons for 134.99 each. Both Searay and Overtons were on back order last year when I bought mine so I bought direct from the manufacturer. I paid about 112.00 each.
The PDF of the company price sheet is BarnegatLt.com/bllpl.pdf.
The through hull fitting was in stock at our local marine store. You will still want to seal this up both sides for good measure. On your dash are accessory switches. I do not have it in front of me but, I thought it was accessory # 2 that lit the Swim Platform lights. Cheat like I did and go look at one in the dealership w/ the option.
Turn the batteries on and check the switch. Open the hatch and look on the bulkhead wall in front of the engines. You will see the cable riunning from the stren to the switch block. If that is not posible. I'll be running to storage in three weeks to get stuff off of the boat and I will take some digitals for you. We enjoy ours and the kids turn it on at the dock to feed fish at night. I thought about the underwater light but, spoke with Sea Ray engineer who said, they went with above water as to avoid the fowling they saw on in water lights.

Mike
 
Prop deal for 320 inboards.

Found a souce for Stock factory prop. Greatlakesskipper.com the RH factory prop is a Teignbridge Nibral 18 x 18.5 RH. I picked one up from them at $249.95. Thats a steal. They do not have the LH prop in stcok. They have a few left.

Mike
 
I have Bravo three's

Escapade...I have bravo threes, but thanks for the deal in inbaord props post...

Did you see the post on Hurly Trib tab lights, underwater lighting. I can't wait to install these on my boat, and them being movable on the trim tab is a cool option.
 
Todd from Hurly is a good guy, he might know of a good source for the through hull fitting as well. We have his davit system and approve. We have a piture of our dink mounted in the image gallery.

After having the lights for a season we enjoyed them. Our marina is usualy very clear at 12 FOW and we some times see fish following us to the dock. When at no wake the exhaust bubbles illuminate. Look in your manual on those dash switches.
I like the fact that they left room for expansion for multiple accesories.

I was thinking about adding some blue led's under the platform edge and under the corian sink edge above the rear fridge for show. Might be able to hide them well along the sink underside. There is a groove that runs the whole distance.

Mike
 
Ok so I know this may sound like a really dumb question, but remember I am used to an 18ft. runabout.

On the 18ft. when I wanted to take off to cruise speeds and get on plane I would lower the trim as low as it would go, hit the throttle, and then once the bow planed out, lift the trim up so there was less drag and the boat would go faster and the rpms would increase without touching the throttle.

Is this not the case with the 320? After taking off if I raise the trim to like 2 (starts at 0), I start getting strange noises like the outdrives do not want to be in that position. So I lower them and the noise goes away. Is is possible that something is hitting or getting to close to the trim tabs? Am I doing something wrong?

Thanks!
 
Are you a lighting specialist

Man Escapade, you sound like you know what your doing when it comes to lighting, I would want Red LED's under our counters, the Boat is all White Hull, and name is done deep red, and we have Deep red accents. So where would you mount the switch for them of would you have them on the same as the cockpit lighting?

I would love to put accent lighting, since the cockpit lighting is so Bright at night, there's no Ambiance, on AMBIANCE...her name
 
This Boat doens't like trim.

Gman, your 320 doesn't like trim, the reason your hearing strange noises is your cavatating your props. I can never get above 1.4 with my trim tilt before the noise kicks in. Keep it barely trimmed and she'll do fine, unless your running at WOT, then you can trim her up a little bit more.

Just use your trim tabs for coming out of the water quickly, which you really shouldnt be doing anyways, it's a cruise.....

And you will cavitate the props if you mash it down and try to get out quickly too. Mine does it when I get right into from full stop.
 
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