Official 280 Sundancer Thread

gsmallwood said:
I have a small oil leak on the port engine. I believe it is coming from the quick oil drain tube under the engine. How do you get under there to get to the oil pan to tighten it or how is that tube fastened to the pan?
Click to expand...

I had what appeared to be the same leak. But it turned out to be from the main seal at the rear of the engine. Just ran down and appeared to come from the drain fitting. Wasn't worth fixing at all. I just put an oil diaper under the engine and let it absorb the drips. And added oil as needed every now and then.

Hopefully yours is indeed the drain fitting but you might want to double check
 
The drain fitting on the hose is held on by a spring clip. You press the clip and pull the fitting pulls out of the female fitting that stays on the pan. I really didn't like it, as mine was leaking too, and did a little soldering modification. Now it doesn't swivel, but I still have the hose for oil changes. The are no moving fittings to leak now. If that doesn't appeal to you, you might want to eliminate the hose and just replace it with a drain plug and change the oil through the dipstick. That's the method highly recommended by my marina owner, but I like the idea of getting every last drop of the old oil out.

I've read that Mercruiser no longer installs the swivel fittings on their engines.
 
gsmallwood said:
I have a small oil leak on the port engine. I believe it is coming from the quick oil drain tube under the engine. How do you get under there to get to the oil pan to tighten it or how is that tube fastened to the pan?
Click to expand...

I see you have the 4.3MPI engines. They have a known issue that causes the timing cover to crack and leak. Also I think there is a fitment problem with the oil pan that can cause some leaking too. I would check for these problems before I spent too much time on the drain hose unless you are certain that is the problem.

Here are some links to read-

http://forums.iboats.com/mercruiser...-v6-cracking-timing-covers-update-373060.html

http://forums.iboats.com/mercruiser-i-o-inboard-engines-outdrives/oil-free-bilge-finally-548054.html

http://forums.iboats.com/mercruiser.../second-4-3mpi-crack-timing-cover-381301.html
 
Anyone know the standard gear ratio, if any, for a 280 with bravo 3 drives and 5.0 MPI's?
 
I installed and briefly tested the MercMonitor Level 2 Version 7 with SmartTow Pro last weekend. Already, I can tell this is going to make an EXTREMELY POSITIVE improvement in my boating this year. I'm reporting this capability because I have not seen the "smart cruise" functionality with the ECO profile discussed on the web much at all.

The main objectives for purchasing the MercMonitor gauge was to function as a NMEA2000 gateway for connecting my Raymarine C90W into SmartCraft. Secondarily, I thought the ECO mode of the gauge might save me a buck or two on fuel. Both objectives were met.

As far as the Raymarine C90W, appropriate engine data shows up and it looks like it will be tons of fun building new displays. That said, I once was really looking forward to more extensive information but this capability turns out to be less important because of the super customizable MercMonitor. Between the gauge flexibility itself and the other Smartcraft gauges I have, cluster of gauges on the dash can display the information spectrum very effectively. It's not as essential to tie-in the C90W as I once thought it to be. Just one gauge made that much positive difference!

As far as the ECO mode, I'm extremely happy. I'm going to save some serious fuel! I'm ashamed to say where I typically ran the boat - because the engine sounded like it was straining less and the throttle seemed more retarded - was .2 MPG less efficient where the ECO mode caculated the ideal trim, speed, and throttle to be. Wow! While my test was brief, I bet once I get it all set up I can save even more fuel.

But the BIG SURPRISE is the SmartTow Launch using the ECO Mode Profile. What this does is automatically plane the boat to the most economical speed and then automatically manage the throttle. You just engage the function on the MercMonitor, floor the throttle, and the boat smoothly accelerates, planes, controllably overshoots, and throttle backs to the pre-selected speed or RPM. There are also other profiles that can be implemented for a different launch profile. I can see that family boating will be improved. For instance, my wife likes to cruise as slow as possible (sepecially when it was choppy) - but to me this was a lot of work and not enjoyable because of constant manipulation of the throttle. I could not really take my hands off the throttle at all. But now, the MercMonitor does this! It can keep the boat at speeds I could not without extreme attention. No more "Slow down, you are going too fast!!!" Frankly, it can operate the boat at speeds that would typically mean way too much manipulation of the throttle for my level of tolerance. To me, it is already much more comfortable - and she has not even been on board yet. I can relax!!!

Despite owning the gauge, I can only speak to Level 2 Version 7 with "SmartTow Pro" feature set. A different level and feature set will most likely give different results. Proceed carefully as the information is confusing. There seems to be a wide selection of levels, versions, and feature sets.




Guys - take a SERIOUS look at this gauge.
 
Danny Troy said:
The drain fitting on the hose is held on by a spring clip. You press the clip and pull the fitting pulls out of the female fitting that stays on the pan. I really didn't like it, as mine was leaking too, and did a little soldering modification. Now it doesn't swivel, but I still have the hose for oil changes. The are no moving fittings to leak now. If that doesn't appeal to you, you might want to eliminate the hose and just replace it with a drain plug and change the oil through the dipstick. That's the method highly recommended by my marina owner, but I like the idea of getting every last drop of the old oil out.

I've read that Mercruiser no longer installs the swivel fittings on their engines.
Click to expand...

Is it possible to get under the engine to do remove and put in a plug? Looks very tight.
 
gsmallwood said:
Is it possible to get under the engine to do remove and put in a plug? Looks very tight.
Click to expand...
On the 496 there is just enough room to get under the pan and do the repair. I'm not familiar with the twin 4.3 setup. I'm sure it will require some degree of contortion to reach that fitting.
 
Guys with a 280 Single 496/ Bravo 3 what gear ratio and prop pitch came stock on your boat? I have a feeling mine is incorrect. Sea level/great lakes usage.. no high altitude changes. Thanks!
 
jason78 said:
I see you have the 4.3MPI engines. They have a known issue that causes the timing cover to crack and leak. Also I think there is a fitment problem with the oil pan that can cause some leaking too. I would check for these problems before I spent too much time on the drain hose unless you are certain that is the problem.

Here are some links to read-

http://forums.iboats.com/mercruiser...-v6-cracking-timing-covers-update-373060.html

http://forums.iboats.com/mercruiser-i-o-inboard-engines-outdrives/oil-free-bilge-finally-548054.html

http://forums.iboats.com/mercruiser.../second-4-3mpi-crack-timing-cover-381301.html
Click to expand...

I have had a leaking hose/fitting before. Where the hose attached to the drain pan fitting, it was a swivel type that quick connect clipped on. Was worn and leaked a bit, but probably only a drip here or there. Good luck.
 
Hi All,
Does anyone have canvas for the 280 that you would sell? I need the sun visor and rear Bimini that attach to the arch. I have toast color, but previous owner replaced the sun visor and Bimini with a blue setup from a local canvas shop. Now the camper canvas can not be used....no zippers to accommodate the curtains, etc.

Thanks!
 
breakitout said:
Guys with a 280 Single 496/ Bravo 3 what gear ratio and prop pitch came stock on your boat? I have a feeling mine is incorrect. Sea level/great lakes usage.. no high altitude changes. Thanks!
Click to expand...
My props show 22P on them, which should be the correct prop for the 496 Bravo III.
 
The 22p props are the cupped version. The main part number is the same, but there is a suffix that indicates which version. Unfortunately they only stamp the main prt number on the prop itself.

Henry


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
Henry Boyd said:
The 22p props are the cupped version. The main part number is the same, but there is a suffix that indicates which version. Unfortunately they only stamp the main prt number on the prop itself.

Henry


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Click to expand...
Interesting..... and how do you know what the drive ratio is? Stamped somewhere on the drive?
 
Henry Boyd said:
The 22p props are the cupped version. The main part number is the same, but there is a suffix that indicates which version. Unfortunately they only stamp the main prt number on the prop itself.

Henry


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Click to expand...

how would we know what 22p version they are? what a pain. There are other numbers stamped on the propset, not sure what ones you are referring to.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,236
Messages
1,429,051
Members
61,119
Latest member
KenBoat
Back
Top