Official (1998-2002) 310 Sundancer Thread

Here you go;

Shafts zincs 1.5 inch diameter
Trim tabs R3 (3 3/4 dia)
Hull Plate 5" on center

Boatzincs.com
 
jaywoodz said:
Hey all - been a while since I've been on here, but it's good to be back.

I'm having a lot of water collect in my aft cabin ('99 310DA). I say water, but really, the carpet is continuously damp. If I push your finger down on the carpet, you can also visually tell that it's soaked. I vacuum it up constantly, but it's almost every week it collects water. I assume it's rain water, because the boat doesn't leak anywhere else, so I'm guessing it comes in somewhere and slowly makes its way to the lowest point, which would be there, or the engine bilge.

Few questions

1) has anyone had this issue before?
2) where should I start looking for water?
3) my boat is covered and the helm and aft aren't wet after a storm
4) It produces condensation, mold, and mildew in the cabin and in the carpet, so it's causing more issues than just a wet floor.

I was thinking maybe the port holes, or something? I really have no idea where to start as that area of the aft is small and not a lot of places to trace from.
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I have not had the problem but if its fresh water then it could be your water tank which is located in that area.
 
Does anyone have or know where to find, a wiring diagram for the engine hatch actuators (2002 310 DA)? One of mine quit working over the winter so i thought I would start with the owners manual supplement diagrams but the actuators don't show up there.
THANKS FOR ANY HELP.
 
Bottom Paint recommendation. Anyone bottom paint themselves. How much bottom antifouling paint do you buy? Is that for 1 coat or two? Brand recommendations?
 
ArtWallach said:
Bottom Paint recommendation. Anyone bottom paint themselves. How much bottom antifouling paint do you buy? Is that for 1 coat or two? Brand recommendations?
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I just went thru this with my boat.
Had a real problem with slime last season even though I used the boat every week.
I wound up going with Interlux csc it was recommended by others here as well as Petit Hydrocat SR
They're both expensive paints but if they keep the expense of a diver to clean the bottom its worth it to me.
I'm still having the boatyard paint it they told me to get 3 gallons.
You need to know what kind of paint is on the bottom now to see if its compatible with the new paint you choose.
You'll also have to sand the bottom to rough it up before you apply new paint.
 
ArtWallach said:
Bottom Paint recommendation. Anyone bottom paint themselves. How much bottom antifouling paint do you buy? Is that for 1 coat or two? Brand recommendations?
Click to expand...


We we paint our own bottom every year. I use Interlux ACT, which is an ablative paint. Has worked well at keeping slime and growth off of the bottom. When you thin the paint with interlux recommended thinner, 1 gallon of paint can cover the bottom with one coat. When we first started using it a few years ago we put on two coats. Now we just apply one coat in the spring making sure the waterline and aft running surfaces are well coated.
 
Fuel/Water Separators?
At Spring Commissioning time my mechanic charges me for replacing the fuel/water separators. I'm desperately trying to save cost this year and do everything myself. Not being mechanically inclined and not having the engine manual, other than knowing it looks like the oil filter where are they located on the engines (T350 MPI IB's)?
 
ArtWallach said:
Fuel/Water Separators?
At Spring Commissioning time my mechanic charges me for replacing the fuel/water separators. I'm desperately trying to save cost this year and do everything myself. Not being mechanically inclined and not having the engine manual, other than knowing it looks like the oil filter where are they located on the engines (T350 MPI IB's)?
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Facing the back of the boat lower right hand side of the motors.
Check up by the fuel tanks too my boat has 5 filters 2 on each motor/ 2 on port tank (1 for engine 1 for generator) 1 on starboard tank to the rear.
 
Looking for any information on how to change the impeller in my engine. This will be a DIY/learn project. Also, need to replace my genny impeller as well. Any info?
 
Impeller not easy but doable. Step 1. Remove exhaust pipes and exhaust drum. 2- remove exhaust drum support base. 3. Close water inlet valve. 4. You will see the water pump (looking at the engine front side) on the bottom left hand corner. 5. Remove the serpentine belt. (There is one pulley a the top for this.) 6. Remove the bases that support the pump. 7. After the pump is lose remove the clamps from hoses there are two (in and out) Mark them since it important that they are replaced as required. Invert the process to replace. Note! Use new and good clamps during installation. Youtube has a few good videos. Use soap to install the impeller to help insertion. Important impeller blade direction to avoid damage at startup. Good practice - fill hose & strainer with water to assist during startup. As for your gen set, it depends on the make and model. Hope this is helpful. Go for it!
 
New Attwood 6 Gal hot water heater installation?
I bought a new SS HWH online. The connections seem simple and obvious but how do you get the old one out and the new one in? On my 2000 310 it has to go down via the main engine hatch. The side panels of floor are too narrow. Now the exhaust risers and possibly the water filter basket are in the way.
Has anybody done this? I'm not that mechanically inclined to where I'm comfortable taking apart my exhaust. Any advise as to how to do this properly?
 
GaleFORCE,
If you get the led replacement bulbs for those two lights let me know what you purchased that worked. I've been having trouble finding one for the AC side.
 
Art wallach fairly easy to get to.
must remove floor panel first though..

the connections are a style of pex fitting. there is a horse shoe shaped key that fits between the fitting body and a sliding clip. the tubing sleeve. pry the clip all the way out, push the sleeve into the fitting body and pull the tubing out to remove water line tubing from the heater. remove port engine hot water lines.
under the the port carpet, take it up, there is a floor panel. it runes from door in rear cock pit forward to near front of forward rear cockpit seat. six long screws hold it down. two on each end and two near the center. remove these and that panel will lift out. be ready, its heavier than it looks for its size.

this will open the hot water heater area and also the vacuflush. if you need more room. the aft cockpit seat will lift out allowing you to remove the newmatic strut rods holding the engine cover. open the cover all the way and tie back it back. you should be good to go. not going to gain that much unless you have to remove the aluminum brace that runs by and above engine and water heater. would pull this brace if still need more clearance. it is bolted in front and back.

there is a matching cover on the starboard side for access battery and starboard drive lift motor. also there is a cockpit cover forward of the engine cover between the two out side cover with two screws you have to reach under the forward seat to remove. this can be removed in the same manner as the side panels for access to back of gen set and front of engine compartment wiring, ac through hull, and gen-set through hull strainers and 1/4 turn valves on port side and depth,speedometer through hulls on starboard side.
 
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There is no way around this. You will need to remove the exhaust pipes, the aluminum rail that supports the engine lids covers will also need removal. If all possible I would drain the water heater, use a vacuum if required this will take some of the weight out of the unit making it easier to manage. Anything for hot water!
 
the aluminum frame thats the panels and engine room hatch sit on is removable? I had no idea? I need to investigate that.
 
ArtWallach said:
the aluminum frame thats the panels and engine room hatch sit on is removable? I had no idea? I need to investigate that.
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art, it is bolted on each end on our 2000 310.

most of the 310's i have seen from this period are I-O though.

the couple of vee drives i have seen are a completely different arrangement. would think this hatch arrangement would be the same. the aluminum beams in ours are held in with, 1/4" ss philip head counter sunk head, screws.
 
ArtWallach said:
the aluminum frame thats the panels and engine room hatch sit on is removable? I had no idea? I need to investigate that.
Click to expand...

Took me a while also to find that out when i bought my Summer Breeze.

Where r u in Lindy?
 
ArtWallach said:
New Attwood 6 Gal hot water heater installation?
I bought a new SS HWH online. The connections seem simple and obvious but how do you get the old one out and the new one in? On my 2000 310 it has to go down via the main engine hatch. The side panels of floor are too narrow. Now the exhaust risers and possibly the water filter basket are in the way.
Has anybody done this? I'm not that mechanically inclined to where I'm comfortable taking apart my exhaust. Any advise as to how to do this properly?
Click to expand...

Why does it need to be changed?
Mine didn't work when i bought the boat just needed a heating element. It was $22.00.
Are your motors fresh water cooled?
If they are the heater uses the coolant off the engine to heat the water not the raw water.
The exchanger should last a long time.
 
We bought our 2001 310 Sundancer back in June from another member who is probably no longer on this forum. We bought it in a week, with no survey. We put close to 100 hours on it by November, when I stuck it on a trailer, and took it to FL for the winter, where we used it about a week a month and maybe added another 40 hours. We put THOUSANDS of dollars into it in routine maintenance and service (some we knew we would, some is just the stuff that happens) and making it nearly perfect, both to enjoy ourselves and to get it ready to sell later this summer (we're significantly moving up). We got it back just over a week ago, had it buffed (above and below the rub rail) and had our yard paint the bottom. I replaced the zincs, cleaned it well from the trip back from FL and polished the camper canvas isinglass. It hasn't been in the water for 4 days and I haven't even had a chance to really get her out in Maine and we're under contract, UGH! We did receive a very fair price, but now I need to do the work of finding that next boat.

I have no doubt the boat will fly through survey as it has basically had an open checkbook for repairs while I also did maintenance service. I want to buy a boat from an owner like me!

Now I need to sell the trailer. I have an 17050lb GVWR triple axle aluminum trailer that fits the (inboard) boat PERFECTLY. It has aluminum wheels, electric (over hydraulic) brakes and actually has 7000lb axles. If you're interested, please feel free to email me directly.

jennag6@gmail.com
 
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