Salvage yards are your only source for an original - not that it really matters, though. Just keep googling and calling.
Marine Glass Specialties can fab a new one - although it takes effort on your part and it won't be cheap.
The holes you see are for removal/installation of those caps.
Yes, you could add clamp-on anodes. Especially if you're in salt (you didn't mention, though).
I wouldn't worry about the one near the rubrail - that will get splashed but will dry pretty much right away, as well. Besides, to fix that, you have to remove the rubrail. You always have to grind out more than you initially think you have to.
I wouldn't be "overly" worried about the one...
I would say AT LEAST every 3 years... realistically, you could go longer... especially since you're in fresh water. There is absolutely no reason to do it every season.
I assume you had the bellows done? If you used Merc bellows - those are most likely good for at least 10 years (but visually...
What kind of info are you looking for? You can find old brochures on Sea Ray's website - and sometimes you can look to other, close by, model years as well.
But there really won't be anything in any printed Sea Ray manuals that are going to help you with your project. Repairing rotten wood...
I don't think you had ever responded in your other thread about the block... how was it determined that the block is OK?
Don't want to go into too much detail if you're not doing this yourself, but... the circ pump is on the front of the engine and (assuming you have a Bravo drive), the raw...
I've driven all of those and I never felt uncomfortable behind the wheel. They have long bows and your seating position is certainly not elevated like you're used to. But the seating position is normal for the style boat they are.
The reality is that once you're up and cruising you're really...