420 DA Thread

Still working on the boat on the hard.... happen to be under the boat spinning props and grabbed the main nut and locking nut and both spun together.... the locking nut is tight to the main nut and both were tight up against each other... but about a half turn away from the prop.
I had them off this summer and mechanic put them on with me there... could the prop moved up the shaft further?
 
Blueone said:
Still working on the boat on the hard.... happen to be under the boat spinning props and grabbed the main nut and locking nut and both spun together.... the locking nut is tight to the main nut and both were tight up against each other... but about a half turn away from the prop.
I had them off this summer and mechanic put them on with me there... could the prop moved up the shaft further?
Click to expand...

Yes, if the key or prop wasn't seated properly when the nut was tightened the prop could have moved into position. Best to remove prop and key and start over.
 
JVM225 said:
Yes, those screws hold the zinc on. The new zinc usually comes with two new screws.
Your going to need some leverage on that little Allen wrench. They can be tight and in an awkward place to get leverage, but it’s doable.
Maybe put the box end of a little 1/4” or 5/16” combination wrench over the short end of the Allen wrench to try to crack the screws loose.
That’s what I’ve done.
Click to expand...

PB Blaster and a pair of pliers (3 mm Allen wrench was useless due to screw tightness) got one screw out but the other is still stuck in there.......gonna try to bite and turn the other screw with locking vice grips
 
Next major issue......after perfect service for 5 years, last season my autopilot was working intermittently, unable to hold course at times. Then it became full time unable to hold a course no matter how many times I hit the "auto" button. Steering wheel remained free to turn the boat and radial knob would not turn the boat even though AP display read "auto". In trouble shooting, I pulled the head unit to find a sheared off wire which I assume plugs into the port on the back of the ST8002 head unit labeled "NMEA In + -" port using what appears to be spade or butt connectors??? Please have a look at these pics which clearly show my findings. Is the wire replaceable? What model wire is it? What does it attach to on the other end? (My E120 or the course computer itself) It's a mess of bound cables in there and I can't trace that sheared off wire without cutting a lot of zip ties...... HELP?
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brewster16 said:
Next major issue......after perfect service for 5 years, last season my autopilot was working intermittently, unable to hold course at times. Then it became full time unable to hold a course no matter how many times I hit the "auto" button. Steering wheel remained free to turn the boat and radial knob would not turn the boat even though AP display read "auto". In trouble shooting, I pulled the head unit to find a sheared off wire which I assume plugs into the port on the back of the ST8002 head unit labeled "NMEA In + -" port using what appears to be spade or butt connectors??? Please have a look at these pics which clearly show my findings. Is the wire replaceable? What model wire is it? What does it attach to on the other end? (My E120 or the course computer itself) It's a mess of bound cables in there and I can't trace that sheared off wire without cutting a lot of zip ties...... HELP?View attachment 83836View attachment 83838 View attachment 83837
Click to expand...

That is for nmea0183, and probably not your issue.

If you can still steer with it in auto your AP pump is likely either dead or not getting power from the course computer. When in auto the wheel will turn but the boat will not steer, the AP pump what is steering at that point.
 
So that NMEA wire has nothing to do with the AP functioning? It has no connection with the pump or actual AP function via the computer? Grrrrr.....that sucks ☹️
 
hynespa said:
** DROP DOWN TV ISSUE / LINEAR ACTUATOR REMOVAL UPDATE**

As I posted a couple weeks ago, my drop down TV would no longer retract. I identified the linear actuator as the problem, but due to where it was in the ceiling just to the left of where the TV drops down, I couldn't get it removed. I finally got it removed today!!!

1) View attachment 72769 To get access to where the actuator was, I had to remove the screws which were holding in the black recessed wood compartment that the TV folds into. Unfortunately the screws holding it in are screwed in from the semi-inaccessible ceiling side. I had to buy a special screwdriver from Japan to get most of the screws out. The remaining screw could not be unscrewed because there was a metal bracket right behind it and there was not room for the screw to come out. I finally had to drill out the area around the screw. I made a little bit of a mess and will have to patch it up later. Luckily since it's up in the ceiling it's not very noticeable.

2) View attachment 72770 - Once unscrewed, the compartment backing didn't have enough clearance to be completely removed - but I was able to slide it a few inches to the back and side so I had better access to access the bolts holding in the actuator.
3) View attachment 72771 - The back end of the actuator is held in with a single bolt. You will need a small Allen wrench to hold one end if the bolt steady, while taking a regular wrench to the far side to loosen and remove the nut. This all requires gymnastics and bending my arms and wrists in directions I didn't realize they could go. Once the nut was off I needed vice grips to pull the bolt out.
4) View attachment 72772 - The moving end of the actuator is also held in with a single bolt. You will also need an Allen wrench (one size up from the back side) and a regular wrench (also one size up) to remove the nut, and then vice grips to pull out the bolt. There are also spacers on the bolt that will fall out once the actuator comes free of the swing down TV assembly.
5) View attachment 72773 - There is a blue wire and green wire attached to the red and black actuator lead wires. Unfortunately (and stupidly) I didn't make note of whether red went to green or blue before I disconnected the wires.
6) View attachment 72774 - Success! The linear actuator removed from the ceiling and placed on the counter. It's larger than I was expecting.
7) View attachment 72775 - In an effort to figure out whether green or blue was positive, I unscrewed the rocker switch that controls the TV going up or down from the wall. I noted these wires were black and blue. I noted when I pushed the switch I heard a "clicking" somewhere in the cabin - so figured there was some sort of relay/controller between the switch and the motor.
8) View attachment 72776View attachment 72777 - I found the controller behind the salon sofa (near where the Stereo amps / Sirius tuner / etc are located). The controller is an Intellitec model 00-00193-100 Slide Out Room Contrl Low Current. Note the green and blue wires attached to the "Motor" terminals - no polarity is noted - perhaps because the motor has to reverse depending on which direction the TV is going.
9) View attachment 72778 - As I mentioned in an earlier post, the replacement actuator costs over $500. The labels on the actuator state that there are no user serviceable parts inside. I figured I had nothing to lose - so tried to take it apart. Looks like whatever attaches the gear to the stroke came loose. At first I thought I could tighten with an Allen wrench - but now I am not sure. I'm going to contact the manufacturer Duff Norton and see if there is a repair option. I will post further updates!
Click to expand...

Hey all - It has been a long road to repair my flip down TV ... which involved ordering a new Duff Norton TM02-1406-8 linear actuator to replace the old one that broke. This actuator cost me $552.98 including shipping / tax / etc.

The new actuator came in and I notice one significant difference from the original one installed by Sea Ray (original on the left ... new one on the right):

Linear Actuator pic 1.png


It looks like Sea Ray drilled into the end of the translating tube and then threaded that hole to allow screwing in of the special bolt you see in the old one.

Here are a couple more pics showing a close up:
Linear Actuator pic 2.png

Linear Actuator pic 3.png


NEXT STEPS (and this is where I need some advice):
1) It looks like I will have to drill a hole into the top of the new translating tube.
2) Then it looks like I will have to thread that hole to screw in the special eye bolt.
3) Reuse the old special eye bolt from the old actuator.

Steps 1&2 scare the s**t out of me because there are warnings on the actuator that rotating the translating tube could basically cause it to fail (bye bye $500 actuator) so extreme care has to be taken to brace it when I drill and threat the hole.

Recommendations please from my fellow CSR on the following:
1) What type of drill bit to use to drill through the top of the translating tube
2) What to use to thread the hole
3) If I didn't feel comfortable doing this myself - is there a type of shop that would potentially have the tools and experience to do this for me?

Thanks in advance for your advice!! This was an unexpected turn of events ...
 
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I would look for a machine shop. They can put it in a mill or a drill press. This is what they do all day long every day.

Do you know anyone who runs heavy construction equipment or is into manufacturing? If so they might be bale to point you to a machine shop.
 
J.Wilt said:
Here are a few photos when they ran the remote for my stereo. Take the padding off the rear bulkhead remove panel by central vac and run wire under stairs.
Click to expand...

Hey @J.Wilt - I just noticed something the other day when I had removed the switch panel so that I could wire in a USB charging port - there is a plastic conduit where the NMEA2000 cable that connects the Fusion stereo with the Fusion remote is routed. Based on the way it is screwed in - I believe this conduit is one that is original to the boat.

Using phishing tape and an endoscopic camera I was able to phish through this conduit from the dash to the column where the interior cabin switches are located. I was then able to pull through an HDMI cable (which will eventually be routed from the Raymarine MFD to the the interior TVs).

Tomorrow I will phish the wire the rest of the way down the column, under the stairs and over to the triangle area.

@J.Wilt - I took a photo of what the conduit looks like from the under dash side. Wondering if you had the same conduit on your boat as well?

Dash conduit.png
 
So my boat is almost ready to splash but after wire wheeling off some growth, calcification from props, rudders, shafts and struts it occurred to me if I should somehow paint/coat these surfaces before it goes back in our brackish water? I never have before. This is well discussed amongst the "outdrive crowd" but what about us big bronze nibral types??? My running gear is cleaned well but totally raw! Anybody applying ANY product/paint/Primocon/Trilux33?
 
Skip said:
Hard to believe it has been 13 years and change since I started this thread. We loved our 03 420DA. We ran the 58 up to DC two weeks ago (just before the recreational boating ban..thank you, Chinese Communists) and saw the old 420DA (now on her 4th owner) going down the river. Sadly no longer maintained to a high level of cleanliness, but one of Sea Ray's best Sundancers and a timeless design. But I'm prejudiced.
Click to expand...

Skip, I love reading through these old posts and comparing the profile pictures and signature lines to see peoples boat progression.
A few years back I read through the entire 370DA thread (thinking I wanted / needed one) then the 380DA thread until I wound up with a 360DA. The 360 is a pretty awesome boat, but I think it's time to step up up to diesels and some A/C in the cockpit.

I read through the entire 460 thread and was leaning that way until the Admiral saw the galley layout. Looked at a 48 a couple weeks back and again the boss did not like the layout down below.

So now I'm working my way through this thread (working forwards and backwards) and stumbled across this post and just had to say something! My tactic is already try to prepare her that the 44DA has a similar feel in the salon but with a larger galley. (She thinks we are gonna be preppin' Thanksgiving style dinners down there or something and I know that's not the case!) Now if the V-berth mattress on the 44 (and the ability to make the bed) are a tad bit larger than my 360's it might be a go!

Compared to my 360DA it looks like there is a lot of room down in the engine room!
 
hynespa said:
Hey @J.Wilt - I just noticed something the other day when I had removed the switch panel so that I could wire in a USB charging port - there is a plastic conduit where the NMEA2000 cable that connects the Fusion stereo with the Fusion remote is routed. Based on the way it is screwed in - I believe this conduit is one that is original to the boat.

Using phishing tape and an endoscopic camera I was able to phish through this conduit from the dash to the column where the interior cabin switches are located. I was then able to pull through an HDMI cable (which will eventually be routed from the Raymarine MFD to the the interior TVs).

Tomorrow I will phish the wire the rest of the way down the column, under the stairs and over to the triangle area.

@J.Wilt - I took a photo of what the conduit looks like from the under dash side. Wondering if you had the same conduit on your boat as well?

View attachment 84608
Click to expand...
I live in Bitchigan, winters are cold and our leader is colder.
I don’t have access to my boat, haven’t seen it in 6 months, it is in storage. Hopefully going in water late next week.
Maybe someone else who has access can reply.
 
J.Wilt said:
I live in Bitchigan, winters are cold and our leader is colder.
I don’t have access to my boat, haven’t seen it in 6 months, it is in storage. Hopefully going in water late next week.
Maybe someone else who has access can reply.
Click to expand...
Ya ...We all need to protect our balls...the Natzi dictator wants all of them..
 
I am trying to remove the Captains chair from its base. I need more room to look and work under the helm panel. The chair does not appear to be stuck it goes up down swivels. I’m just trying to remove the chair from its pedestal. Any suggestions?
 
Hi all - I am experiencing a weak horn ... that starts blowing fine and then after a second or so descends into a tired gasp. If I immediately try to rehonk the horn it continues with a tired gasp ... but if I wait 6 or 7 seconds to retry the horn it honks fine again for a second or two and then redescends into a gasp.

One of my dock neighbors suggested that it might be the sign of a weak battery as the horn draws quite a few amps. Does anybody know on the 42/44DA into which battery the horn is wired?
 
villain style said:
I am trying to remove the Captains chair from its base. I need more room to look and work under the helm panel. The chair does not appear to be stuck it goes up down swivels. I’m just trying to remove the chair from its pedestal. Any suggestions?
Click to expand...
Remove these bolts and the whole thing is out of your way

327FA919-913E-4ECE-BF0A-903F90023860.jpeg
 
villain style said:
I am trying to remove the Captains chair from its base. I need more room to look and work under the helm panel. The chair does not appear to be stuck it goes up down swivels. I’m just trying to remove the chair from its pedestal. Any suggestions?
Click to expand...

I just did this to get under the helm as well. Simply remove the Allen bolts and the chair and base will lift off. I recommend applying white lithium grease to those bolts when you put them back in.
 
brewster16 said:
Next major issue......after perfect service for 5 years, last season my autopilot was working intermittently, unable to hold course at times. Then it became full time unable to hold a course no matter how many times I hit the "auto" button. Steering wheel remained free to turn the boat and radial knob would not turn the boat even though AP display read "auto". In trouble shooting, I pulled the head unit to find a sheared off wire which I assume plugs into the port on the back of the ST8002 head unit labeled "NMEA In + -" port using what appears to be spade or butt connectors??? Please have a look at these pics which clearly show my findings. Is the wire replaceable? What model wire is it? What does it attach to on the other end? (My E120 or the course computer itself) It's a mess of bound cables in there and I can't trace that sheared off wire without cutting a lot of zip ties...... HELP?View attachment 83836View attachment 83838 View attachment 83837
Click to expand...

Just to close out my autopilot problem.....all is working fine now. Turns out the single Sea Talk plug on the back of the ST8002 head unit was slightly corroded and not making contact! I am quite happy that's all it turned out to be. The autopilot is working perfectly now.
 
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