1979 SRV 195 Stringer rot

I've been away from the site for a while, out enjoying our 195 for the last few years. I finally decided to tackle the deck rot along side of the port ski locker opening that was along the edge. Well, as is common, the rot just kept going the more I dug, so I'm down to gutting the entire deck and stringers including the engine mount structure. When I removed the deck and started removing the floatation foam, there was a quite abit of water soaking of the foam and standing water between the foam and hull. As I was removing the deck, I found it quite curious as to how the deck was glassed in. The deck had a small gap 1/8" between the edge of the deck plywood and the gunwhale. At the joint where the gunwhale and the hull meet there is a 2-3" wide plywood lip glassed in. Has anyone experienced this situation? Do I need to remove the 2-3" plywood lip? Does the hull have a lip formed in for the decking to lay on? In the photo, the cut line is between the edge of the decking and the edge of the hull lip that has plywood glassed into it.

Is it possible this is not the first time this has been repaired?

that had crossed my mind as I was doing the tear out. it just didn't seem that searay would have built it that way out of the factory but I suppose it is a possibility. I'm curious if any other of the folks with searays who traveled this road has seen this build/previous repair scheme. there wasn't any obvious indications of structural issues with the way the deck was laid in so its hard to say having not knowing the complete history of the boat. I added some more photos of the foam and other related tearout snaps.

When I redid my 1989 I found a small lip extending from each upright section. I just fit the new plywood into the lip.
To keep rot from happening again, I saturated each section of new plywood with resin over several days after I cut it to the right shape and before I installed it.
I also kept telling myself, “The fit may not be perfect, BUT, the boat has been running fine with completely rotted deck and structure for who knows how long, so anything I do will be an improvement!” Don’t sweat the details.
I started redoing the decking , stringers, and transom in mine 12 years ago and just finished last year. I used it the whole time and did it in phases.

I would bet that little lip of plywood you are referring to, and can be seen in the bottom of the one photo, is the original deck. Looks like someone did a sloppy repair job and didn't seal it up. Also, they ran out of expanding foam or just did a poor job of calculating it's expansion rate.
When I redid my 245, the deck was laid on a thick bead of cement right on the chine along the bottom of the gunnel. It was then all glassed over with no voids anywhere in the foam.
Once you get it all cleaned out, am sure you will make it all right again. Fun, fun!

sorry for the duplicate photo's. yesterday was a day computers and I didn't get along too well. of course, posting at 2AM after work and having some baileys over ice might have been contributing factors LOL. Thanks for the tip DWA boater. I'll cut a piece of the plywood thats glassed along the gunnel and see what I find. If there is a lip, as one would expect there to be, it will help when laying in the new decking. As I look more at the photos it does lead you to consider that there was a previous repair that was rather sloppy, something I will try not to repeat. I'm kicking myself now for not doing this 6 years ago when I first bought the boat. I had to redo the transom for rot and I should have thought further about the rest of the structure when I first had it gutted. I cut out the bad portions of the transom, replaced what was bad but there was still some areas that I wasn't able to repair properly so now I'm paying the end price. I guess I was caught up in the new boat owner excitement to get it out on the water. The initial plan is to use coosa board for the decking and bulkheads to help save some weight. I would like to if feasable to use solid wood for the stringers and avoid using plywood although if I prep it properly it should last another 40 years as the originals did. we'll see, still quite along way from that at this point.