420/44 DB Owners Club

Mark.60 said:
Last major project, I hope.
Generator installed over the weekend and all my space in the engine room is gone. can’t wait to use it .
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Nice! what happen to the original one?
 
It was removed before I bought the boat. The engine ingested sea water , They took 15k off the price. Spent about 12 to replace. A guy I know suggested the lights.
 
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For anyone looking, there is a 2004 420DB (local to me). It’s always been freshwater ( on Table Rock Lake in Missouri) and in a covered slip. A couple of details....about 250 hours on engines and new canvas (changed to black) in the past 2 or 3 years. If interested Call Zane (he's the broker) @ 770-410-8571.
 
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bajturner said:
Congrats! You'll be try on the bridge and cockpit in the locks (assuming you are at the helm...bow crew not so lucky).

Are these the covers? https://www.seatechmarineproducts.c...-duty-deck-switch-with-safety-cover-muir.html

These are the Imtra covers currently on mine:

View attachment 102723View attachment 102724
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I just ordered these, I screwed up and ordered the ones posted by Shaps earlier only to receive them and find they are much smaller. Ill return to Defender. I did not realize they came in different sizes. I got excited and pulled the trigger without even looking at the dimensions. Oh well...
Carpe Diem
 
Carpediem44DB said:
I just ordered these, I screwed up and ordered the ones posted by Shaps earlier only to receive them and find they are much smaller. Ill return to Defender. I did not realize they came in different sizes. I got excited and pulled the trigger without even looking at the dimensions. Oh well...
Carpe Diem
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Cool! These look to be the correct ones. Curious to hear how well they fit...I was planning to order them as well.
 
I just removed the shrink-wrap and discovered a bit of damage. The Direct TV antenna dome was crushed like an egg. And I now have in the arch overhead the bridge a series of lateral cracks in the fiberglas-fore and aft sides. (I didn't think to take pictures yet). Is the arch itself metal with the fiberglas there for appearance and function, or is the entire arch only fiberglas?

I will need to have the cracks repaired but I would like to know whether they need to be structural repairs or appearance repairs. I would like to know what caused them, but since there are no trees within 1/4 mile of my spot on the hard, I suspect it may be an overly tight shrink-wrap and high wind condition???

Thanks in advance for the help.

Chip
 
Anyone know how to pull the speakers down from ceiling in the salon? I have one that was pushed in beyond flush and I can see the cloth headliner folded in and stapled around that hole. Just don’t know how to grab and pull it down
 
Chipfloater said:
I just removed the shrink-wrap and discovered a bit of damage. The Direct TV antenna dome was crushed like an egg. And I now have in the arch overhead the bridge a series of lateral cracks in the fiberglas-fore and aft sides. (I didn't think to take pictures yet). Is the arch itself metal with the fiberglas there for appearance and function, or is the entire arch only fiberglas?

I will need to have the cracks repaired but I would like to know whether they need to be structural repairs or appearance repairs. I would like to know what caused them, but since there are no trees within 1/4 mile of my spot on the hard, I suspect it may be an overly tight shrink-wrap and high wind condition???

Thanks in advance for the help.

Chip
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Most likely stress cracks in the gel coat due to load on the frame from the Shrink wrap. The arch is mostly fiberglass with a few areas with blocks for supporting the frame.if it was structural damage you would be seeing fiberglass.
 
boaterholic said:
Anyone know how to pull the speakers down from ceiling in the salon? I have one that was pushed in beyond flush and I can see the cloth headliner folded in and stapled around that hole. Just don’t know how to grab and pull it down
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I use a plastic or butter knife to stick in the side and apply a slight bit of twisting pressure and pull down.
 
Speaking of speakers,
Anyone know if our boats have an amp for the sound system? I have not messed much with it yet. I have what I think is the original Clarion head unit, an external CD player, I think it has a Sirius receiver, two cockpit speakers, two salon speakers and can’t recall if any stateroom speakers, then up in the bridge two more speakers and a subwoofer. Also two switches for turning cockpit and bridge speakers on/off and the other switch for the interior speakers.
 
boaterholic said:
Speaking of speakers,
Anyone know if our boats have an amp for the sound system? I have not messed much with it yet. I have what I think is the original Clarion head unit, an external CD player, I think it has a Sirius receiver, two cockpit speakers, two salon speakers and can’t recall if any stateroom speakers, then up in the bridge two more speakers and a subwoofer. Also two switches for turning cockpit and bridge speakers on/off and the other switch for the interior speakers.
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Pull the center backrest up on the port lounge. the amps are mounted to a shelf there. Look in your owners manual for the wiring diagram and it will show the stereo wiring. it sounds like it is the original installation. You will see that there are two amps installed.
Carpe
 
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Carpediem44DB said:
Pull the center backrest up on the port lounge. the amps are mounted to a shelf there. Look in your owners manual for the wiring diagram and it will show the stereo wiring. it sounds like it is the original installation. You will see that there are two amps installed.
Carpe
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Ok thanks. Will check it out.
Do you know if the back rests on the starboard lounge also pull up to remove? I tried lifting the forward of the two yesterday and it did not want to lift. I had heard there is a good size storage area behind that back rest just aft of the galley and I wanted to check it out.
 
They do, There is a combination of velcro and vertical rods attached to the top of the back rest holding them in place. Pull out on the bottom of the cushion to release from the velcro then lift straight up. The rods are about twelve inches long as I remember. There is quite a bit of space behind there for sure, I never thought of using it for storage but I could see storing all sorts of stuff in that space.
Carpe Diem
 
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My name is Flix, a newbie. My new (used 2008) baby was finally delivered yesterday. I've received some great advice here but I still have big problems in connecting to my dock with a single 30-amp and a 110v outlets. I cannot make changes to the dock unless I spent 10k for permits from mutiple agencies and costly install. It's a frustratingly long process. The batteries need to be charged soon. I opened up the power inlet inside the boat hoping to simply pluging in a 30 amp on one side and 110 with adpater on the other. Unfortunately, what I found is shown in the photo. The big and long white shore cable with 50 amp plug is directly connected to the boat via ring terminals. I really need more help about what to do. Should I buy 2 cables (110v and 30 amp) and crimp ring terminals to fit? That seems a bit scary. Can I simply use a 30 to 50 amp adapter? Is there a particular 30-50 amp adapter I need? I know I will end up with just 110 on each side.
front.jpg
power inlet.jpg


Flix
 
Hey Flix, where are you located? So Cal? that boat looks like one the folks I sold mine to were looking at. Are you saying that your boat has a single 50 AMP 1125/250V cord and you only have a single 110V 30AMP outlet on your dock? If so you should get a good electrician to determine the way it is wired to the panel and consider having dual 30 AMP service installed. You could then power half of the AC panel with each and then use a simple 30 amp splitter to two 30 amps and just monitor your load. It is either that or you can get a 30 to 50 amp connector at marineco. I have two 50 amp 250/125 V connections and a 50 to two 30 amp splitter. They are not cheap and you do need to make sure the prongs match.
Good luck
Carpe Diem
 
Irie308 said:
Most likely stress cracks in the gel coat due to load on the frame from the Shrink wrap. The arch is mostly fiberglass with a few areas with blocks for supporting the frame.if it was structural damage you would be seeing fiberglass.
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Thanks a lot for the response> I'll see what the fiberglas guy has to say.

Chip
 
Carpediem44DB said:
Hey Flix, where are you located? So Cal? that boat looks like one the folks I sold mine to were looking at. Are you saying that your boat has a single 50 AMP 1125/250V cord and you only have a single 110V 30AMP outlet on your dock? If so you should get a good electrician to determine the way it is wired to the panel and consider having dual 30 AMP service installed. You could then power half of the AC panel with each and then use a simple 30 amp splitter to two 30 amps and just monitor your load. It is either that or you can get a 30 to 50 amp connector at marineco. I have two 50 amp 250/125 V connections and a 50 to two 30 amp splitter. They are not cheap and you do need to make sure the prongs match.
Good luck
Carpe Diem
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Yes S CA. It probably is the same boat that was on the market for 6 months. I have a single 30 amp outlet and a 110v outlet. It will be quite a while before I will be able to have either a 50 amp or 2 30-amp's. Is there a special type of 30 to 50 amp I can use safely just to charge the batteries? I won't run AC/stove/mirowave/heat etc.

Flix
 
Flix2 said:
Yes S CA. It probably is the same boat that was on the market for 6 months. I have a single 30 amp outlet and a 110v outlet. It will be quite a while before I will be able to have either a 50 amp or 2 30-amp's. Is there a special type of 30 to 50 amp I can use safely just to charge the batteries? I won't run AC/stove/mirowave/heat etc.

Flix
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If you have a single 50amp shore power cord, I guess SR changed from the twin 30s at some point. My ‘07 had twin 30s. Anyway as CD says above, you only need an adapter to go from 30amp to a 50amp connection. Here is one:

9D45DAFB-16AF-436B-AD94-233E635B3394.jpeg


Bennett
 
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