420 DA Thread

Not sure of the model number, but the PO of ours installed an Isotherm. It is taller/longer than what I see here, so likely the hole had to be cut, but it looks OEM with the flange. It is 12v/110v and I have been very impressed with how cold it gets. Dial has 0-7 and on 5 it goes to 0* and even on 12v will stay there. Never had a marine freezer that would keep ice cream hard, but this one will.

Bennett

Hi Bennett, I sure would like to know the model number of that Isotherm unit. Think there might be an ID plate inside of it that you could shoot a picture of?
Cheers, Chan
 
Not sure of the model number, but the PO of ours installed an Isotherm. It is taller/longer than what I see here, so likely the hole had to be cut, but it looks OEM with the flange. It is 12v/110v and I have been very impressed with how cold it gets. Dial has 0-7 and on 5 it goes to 0* and even on 12v will stay there. Never had a marine freezer that would keep ice cream hard, but this one will.

Bennett
Please see if you can find the model # is it also a ice maker?
 
Hi Bennett, I sure would like to know the model number of that Isotherm unit. Think there might be an ID plate inside of it that you could shoot a picture of?
Cheers, Chan

OK. I just searched all of my pics and found one of the ID plate. It is the best I have ever seen….here it is…
497D1066-3851-468E-9444-D97B80EEBDEB.jpeg


It is an Isotherm CR63F. Great unit.
 
Anyone in this group running 496 MAG HO's? Would like to talk via messenger if possible. Thanks
 
Does anyone have a suggestion to make isinglass installation less of a pain in the ass? I found that zipping a little bit first on the corners and then snapping the buttons was the best way. Should some pieces go on before others? I am definitely replacing the zippers as some of the teeth are missing...
 
After 3 days washing, compounding, polishing and sealing the hull, having followed all lessons offered by Drake Detailing on YouTube (Starke Level R Heavy Cut, Starke Elevate Medium Cut, Starke Hyper Hold Polymer Sealant) I'm very proud of my inaugural effort. Now comes the same battle with the top side. Wasn't easy but very satisfying in the end. Launched on Saturday after it stopped snowing on Friday. Yes, snow.
20210518_123801.jpg
20210518_141610.jpg
 
3 Days is all? I just finished my boat, took a lot longer than that...I guess it's time someone walks me out to the back 40 and puts me down:(

I use the Makite 9227 but also purchased one of these this year PV7001c. They're lighter and easier to get into some places...I was going to say they're a time saver too, but.....3 days huh....nevermind.
PV7001c.png
 
Last edited:
3 Days is all? I just finished my boat, took a lot longer than that...I guess it's time someone walks me out to the back 40 and puts me down:(00

I use the Makita 9227 but also purchased one of these this year PV7001c. They're lighter and easier to get into some places...I was going to say they're a time saver too, but.....3 days huh....nevermind.
View attachment 106394

I, too, used a Makita machine. Pic below. There's an art to using this heavier but more powerful model, but I learned everything on line. Follow the steps. Make your life easier.

How To Use A Rotary Buffer On A Boat

Also needed and really liked the recommended Griot's Garage G9 Orbital Polisher for finishing. Note: Nautical One's One-Step Ceramic Polish on the Griot is absolutely brilliant for non ozidized gelcoat. All the marine products I used from Mckee's worked as advertised.

https://drakesmarinedetailsupply.com/ for double sided wool pads + adaptor, Starke compound and polishing products, pads, etc. Loads of tremendous how-to vids posted by him on YouTube. He clearly is a pro and no doubt worth the big bucks he earns for his work in Florida. But if it's something you wish to tackle yourself on a ship of our size know that my guess is, after expenses and not including sweat equity, I saved $1,000's. And I don't mean just a few.

Just picked up a folding Teak Butcher Block table I designed and had fabricated by Black Beak Woodworking in Ontario, Canada. Being mounted on a Garelick adjustable stand. Here's a pic before it's fully assembled using SOSS invisible hinges. Will post more once I bring it to the boat.

Had searched worldwide all winter long for something that would work before I gave up, went to Home Depot, bought a kitchen counter slab of wood and had it done myself. Happy to share details and costs. Again, compared to the $10,000 quote from Sea Ray for a new 400 SLX folding table, I saved enough to pay for a Mediterranean cruise (if they were cruising)
Screenshot_20210601-110610_Chrome.jpg
Screenshot_20210601-110701_Chrome.jpg
20210601_125627.jpg
.
 
After 3 days washing, compounding, polishing and sealing the hull, having followed all lessons offered by Drake Detailing on YouTube (Starke Level R Heavy Cut, Starke Elevate Medium Cut, Starke Hyper Hold Polymer Sealant) I'm very proud of my inaugural effort. Now comes the same battle with the top side. Wasn't easy but very satisfying in the end. Launched on Saturday after it stopped snowing on Friday. Yes, snow. View attachment 106346 View attachment 106347

Your boat looks great! I have been watching a lot of his videos. What size bottle of the Hyper hold did you buy and was it enough? Did you just use Starke on your blue hull?
 
32 oz of Starke Level R Heavy Cut and Starke Elevate Medium Cut will do the entire boat exterior, and 16 oz of Starke Hyper Hold Polymer Sealant. You'll use more per ft on the white, since the sun beats it up. To wash afterwards, you must use a product that won't strip away sealant or wax or you'll wash away all your hard work. Wear a mask when using the Level R. It and the wool pad kick up a heck of a mess to breath in.
 
Does anyone have a suggestion to make isinglass installation less of a pain in the ass? I found that zipping a little bit first on the corners and then snapping the buttons was the best way. Should some pieces go on before others? I am definitely replacing the zippers as some of the teeth are missing...
Exactly what I do....start the zippers then do snaps, then finish zipping. Couple of other tips...if removing isinglass front windshield, don't take each unit out separately, instead take half or the whole unit out and stow. Lube the zippers and pulls regularly and if you blow a zipper tooth you might as well have the entire zipper replaced bc it's not gonna get better by itself.

BTW, I know all of our non boating friends and family always want to help but those folks will screw up your zippers as they yank and pull them in frustration. Only my wife and I do them. (Actually, only she and I do everything because non boaters break everything they touch!)
 
BTW, I know all of our non boating friends and family always want to help but those folks will screw up your zippers as they yank and pull them in frustration. Only my wife and I do them. (Actually, only she and I do everything because non boaters break everything they touch!)
I fought this all weekend with another couple on the boat...he just wouldnt stop helping after repeatedly telling him to relax that we have a system down and helping doesnt help...
my other problem is dock neighbors helping when we return... I just dont want help, we have a system and it works perfect. The one person helping put the stern line on the wrong cleat how he did it is beyond me as it was too short to reach... and that in turn wouldnt allow the bow lines to reach...its like OMG leave me alone :(
 
Teak butcher block folding table. Details incl. measurements and materials shown in "Message Board Pictures and Videos"
20210605_120810.jpg
 

Attachments

  • 20210605_120735.jpg
    20210605_120735.jpg
    165.2 KB · Views: 95
  • 20210605_120825.jpg
    20210605_120825.jpg
    163.2 KB · Views: 93
  • 20210605_122641.jpg
    20210605_122641.jpg
    43.5 KB · Views: 103
My master vacuflush is not working, no pressure when flush, the green light doesn’t change to red either after flush.
Where do I begin?
 
Vacuum Switch sticking? Complete SWAG.
With that set of symptoms i'd agree that the best place to start is the vacuum switch. You should be able to cycle the vacuum pump by manually manipulating (making electrical contact) the vacuum switch which should be down on the port side pump housing.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
113,177
Messages
1,427,992
Members
61,086
Latest member
MrWebster
Back
Top