Amplifier selection

northshore

Well-Known Member
Jan 17, 2011
2,094
Cleveland, OH
Boat Info
1989 340 Sundancer
Raymarine E90W Radar/Chartplotter
Engines
Twin 454 Mercruiser 340's
The speaker layout on my 340 is one pair in V berth, one pair in the galley/dinette area, and one pair in the cockpit.
The pair in the galley/dinette are is always live. A switch at the helm controls whether the cockpit or V berth is hooked in to the other channel.

For the wife and I the audio volume and sound quality in the cabin is about a 8 out of 10 and I have no very compelling reason to screw with it.
And in the cockpit maybe a 6 or 7 out of 10 only because its open and when running we could use a bit more volume and a bit more bass.
But again not anything that I was really in a big rush to change.

Then a friend offered me a his old 8" sub woofer.... (he's going bigger)

As I only want to put the sub woofer in the cockpit area and I have very easy access to the speaker lines in the cockpit can any one make a recommendation for a small amplifier that will accept non-line level (what is the right term for this?) inputs and drive the small sub woofer?
Not looking for audiophile quality here, but dont want to bring garbage aboard either.
Head unit is a Kenwood DDX319 with 22 watts x 4 in to 4 ohms.
Speakers are 6 in Kenwood - dont have the specs, but the sensitivity is middle of the road if memory serves.

Thanks in advance,

-Mike
 
I have been very pleased with Rockford Fosgate on my boat. They have affordable, quality amp's and many of them will likely have line-level inputs. This is where you're using connections intended for speakers but feeding an amp instead.
 
I just installed this amp a few months ago along with these speakers and the sound is out standing.... Clarion XC2510 Marine Amplifier
51RC2II0GZL.jpg
Clarion CMG1622R
cmg1622r.jpg
 
First, we need to know the woofer brand, model and coil configuration in order to make a quality amplifier suggestion.

2nd, rather than parallel into a head unit speaker chnl thats driving a speaker, in order to supply an amp, I would suggest looking into a pair of RCA outputs off the head unit, that correspond with the head unit chnls that the surrounding full range speakers are driven off of. Get an amp has a line level controller for volume control or install a simple inline RCA line level controller. Base only audible when you switch those speaker on and turn the volume up.

A better route to go. Use a full range 4 chnl amp and get the cockpit speakers off the head unit on onto one half of the amp and wire the woofer to the other half. You can do this down stream of the selector switch so it still functions as it does now. The difference is, that the speaker level post selector comes into the amp rather than direct to the speakers. Speakers receiver more wattage for better sound. Cockpit speakers and woofer are signaled with the same source, so neither play until the selector is activated. Id still incorporate a sub level control. Its nice to adjust the woofer base don music type.
 
A better route to go. Use a full range 4 chnl amp and get the cockpit speakers off the head unit on onto one half of the amp and wire the woofer to the other half. You can do this down stream of the selector switch so it still functions as it does now. The difference is, that the speaker level post selector comes into the amp rather than direct to the speakers. Speakers receiver more wattage for better sound. Cockpit speakers and woofer are signaled with the same source, so neither play until the selector is activated. Id still incorporate a sub level control. Its nice to adjust the woofer base don music type.

This... couple hundred bucks and your done. Quit using the deck to power the speakers, run it all through an amp. Get a decent amp so that if you decide to upgrade the speakers in the future, you're upgrade only consists of some speakers.

Another option going forward is that you don't need anything crazy for the cabin, so keep those powered by the head unit and put everything outside on the amp.

If the amp is installed in a for certain dry area (in the cabin) then you can go with non-marine stuff for that and your options are great and less expensive.
400 watts, (50 watts to each cockpit speaker, 4 total - 200 watts to the sub)

Rockford: http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/p400x4 (order this at walmart for $218 online... https://www.walmart.com/ip/Rockford...61892&wl11=online&wl12=41269192&wl13=&veh=sem

Alpine: https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-Power...6620&sr=8-3&keywords=alpine+digital+amplifier
 
Everyone - thanks for the input.

Just to be clear, what I do want to do is have all three speakers (the sub and two existing in cockpit) pass through a new amp.
I would like to feed this new amp with the speaker level lines that come after my selector switch which I believe is what Wiley described in his 'A better route to go.' paragraph. Magic concurred

The location for the new amp would be in the under the helm seat storage. It would never get wet. At that point is the Rockford Fosgate amp that Magic mentioned a viable option? Are there others that anyone would recommend?

What would be the appropriate description of what I'm looking for? A four channel amp with speaker level inputs?

Thanks again all,

-Mike
 
The location for the new amp would be in the under the helm seat storage. It would never get wet. At that point is the Rockford Fosgate amp that Magic mentioned a viable option? Are there others that anyone would recommend?



Thanks again all,

-Mike

I ordered the Rockford Punch 1000 watt/5ch amp on Friday (same line of amp I suggested to you) along with all the other Rockford marine stuff. For $218, it's a great option and can be expanded in the future if you choose to add 1 more pair to the cockpit, or simply replace your current speakers with some that scream at 100 watts RMS per speaker.
 
Well, a typical 4 chnl amp would certainly work in a 3 chnl application, However, the details of this gifted woofer will be a deciding factor on the amp choice.
 
Well, a typical 4 chnl amp would certainly work in a 3 chnl application, However, the details of this gifted woofer will be a deciding factor on the amp choice.

Waiting on him to pull it. Stand by....
 
I have been very pleased with Rockford Fosgate on my boat. They have affordable, quality amp's and many of them will likely have line-level inputs. This is where you're using connections intended for speakers but feeding an amp instead.
Actually that is called speaker-level input.
 
And the winner is ...
Rockford Fosgate P1S4-10

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/p1s4-10

One thing that I noticed about this sub is the cone is 'Kevlar fiber reinforced paper'.
My intention was that this goes under the helm which although it will never be wet, it will be subject to higher humidity.
It's a freebe so if it is just going to fail quickly (a couple years) I'd entertain giving it back to my buddy and tell him to find someone that plans to use it in their cabin.

Thoughts?
 
Being a single 4 ohm, you can bridge it on an appropriate 4 chnl and run it as a 3 chnl.

As to the cone. What that means is that the back of the cone is likely raw paper and the front has the laminate cover. These designs are less then ideal for boats. Not for fear of water splash, but is you noted, the constant humidity. Its kind of a domino effect as the cone begins to break down.

if you were looking to buy new, id steer you clear of that or similar woofers, and to a marine woofer, and likely one thats even more ideal for an infinite-baffle application. Free? take it an run with it till you see it (well, hear it) going down hill.
 

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