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To close out the mystery, I swapped out the main power solenoid and the windlass was back in business. The only real complication was the power return (red/violent, on the switched side of the solenoid). I mangled the terminal on the end of it which is supposed to be a connector for the...

No, it doesn't. Doesn't work with foot switches or the helm up down buttons.

Somehow I missed this post, but that looks a lot like the solenoid control box that Quick sell with their windlass. Kind of hoping I'm not digging into that, as I think if the windlass itself was a problem I'd just spend some money and replace it outright.

Thanks for that. I'm curious, is there a literal control box as pictured in the manual's wiring schematic for the windlass? The schematic shows the foot petals and helm up/down buttons connected to a box, but I think this is a bit of a convention. My windlass, a Quick Antares 1000, has an OEM...

We were out at the boat, but I didn't have any electrical tools or much time to deep-dive this. I did swap the lone 5A ATO fuse on the windless power latching solenoid in the engine room, but to no change in status. I don't get any clicking sound on the solenoid when turning the windlass on...

Kind of an unpleasant surprise when looking to anchor. The helm switch to the windlass doesn't go into the normal "on" position where the light lights up. All the other switches on the starboard control panel work (so its probably not the whole EIM going south). No functionality up/down. I...

It's crazy, isn't it? I had a kind of mild panic attack when I first couldn't get the F5 fuse cap back on. It took a fair amount of looking/thinking about why it wouldn't stay on to realize that the only thing holding it on are the little tabs making friction with the insert. I wonder how...

The final(?) follow-up on this is that it seems all my EC72 issues were probably caused by the fuse holder. Once I fixed the retention tabs (the little bent out bits on the removable cap end of the fuse holder) and got that fuse seated well, no more EC72 errors and the generator stopped...

My philosophy isn’t to always blame the yard, but I noticed an amount of spilled oil in the bottom pan near the ground terminal. I cleaned that up and cleaned and re-torqued the ground connection and it started right up! …and then died after 20 minutes with EC72 again. Pulled and cleaned all...

Last summer my 5ECD would crap out after 5-20 minutes of run time, showing an EC72 error code. Before I could get around to it, I replaced all 4 of my 310DAs batteries -- after 5 years, they were shot (two were actually bulged). After swapping out with new batteries, the generator decided to...

I mean it sounds like a ridiculous risk to cover, but in theory any risk can be insured if the actuarial risk is known and the policy price charged covers the loss payouts. If you think hidden damage can't be profitably insured against, I guess I'd wonder what real value a surveyor is supposed...

I wonder if you could buy a special insurance product for something like this. I gotta figure there's some kind of "integrity of purchased goods" policy that would pay off if a thing of some kind was found to be seriously flawed. Of course it would come with a ton of strings attached -- like...

One of my biggest early ownership disappointments was how loud the generator seemed. I didn't have any sound shield on mine and the noise level was enough to annoying the admiral and diminish the usage value we'd get out of it. Last summer, one of my blowers quit and I replaced them both with...

I was told by a guy at Kenyan that the first model year (which mine was) there was a flaw in the element exposed by raising it for cleaning which would result in tripping the breaker. He told me there was a kit they could send me (at cost, if I remember) and that’s what I installed. The...

I bought my 2007 310DA in 2017 and it had the Kenyan Grill with the faulty heating element. I got the upgrade kit that fixed the problem with it and it’s mostly been trouble free. I say mostly because I just “fixed” it again after it’s second spell of tripping out the in-line breaker since...

The switch is a one-piece unit with no real replaceable parts. I think if you were stuck in the apocalypse you could MacGyver some kind of repair, but if your time means anything its just a complete replacement. It's also a crap mechanical switch which uses diaphragm pressure to pull a spring...

I had the "pump runs frequently" problem last season and wound up doing another complete internals replacement *and* a pressure switch. My problem wasn't lack of function -- it flushed fine, it was excessive pump cycling and not shutting off even though it was pulling 12" of mercury on a vacuum...

I like supporting this business even though it may not be cheapest source. They've always had what I needed and the guy on the phone has been super helpful with tips to get my Vacuflush problems solved. I'm to the point now that I just keep a complete rebuild kit on hand -- bellows, duckbills...

If they had one that would fit my 34' slip I would be sorely tempted to swap for my 310DA. There was a pretty ancient 30-some foot houseboat we would drive by and I always thought the layout would have been pretty perfect for how we use our boat. But it seems like they don't make 30-ish feet...

Thanks for that. Now I have to go measure the thing I want to put under it and see if it will fit...