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Is this the equivalent? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078P7BQJY/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_i_CP7YEbKY1BK8F

Found this... https://www.boats.net/product/mercury/892681?utm_source=facebook&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=892681&utm_campaign=TNT_DPA+-+All+Devices

McMaster-Carr is a great resource for o-rings of all specs. You'd have to measure carefully and order probably a bag of 50. BUT cheaper than a regulator I'm sure.

AH, I see where you're talking about now. Yeah, no water passages up there. Could be the o-ring, weakened by E10? Looking at the parts diagram but not seeing a part there?

You can get it off - if I remember correctly, the two fuel pumps are housed beneath that - I've had it off many times (years ago,which is why I can't remember!). Get it off without breaking screws?? That's another story. Does the hosing look corroded around any of the screws? If yes, the...

I'm in brackish to salt water. But the boat sits in her slip in brackish. Very little degradation of the anode. I take everything apart each spring to clean the tunnel and prop and TRY to get the anode out, just so this crap doesn't happen. This is my 7th spring with this boat and I'd say it's...

Is there a way to get these things off easily. Mine gets fused in there each year. I've tried a slight smear of never-seeze but it's still stuck. One year I cut it into pieces with a dremel to dislodge it - took half the day b/c there's no room to work in that little tunnel. Anyone else with...

Said breaker may be on the panel in the engine room, on the forward bulkhead.

Agree with Larry. Takes time and patience. MAPP gas helps, PB blaster and a small sledge. I cant seem to find that seller anywhere on ebay. Shame. BUT this one is very similar in design though not as shiny/pretty. I'm sure it will work just as well...

Called Hardin after above post. I'd need the "Deluxe" rebuild kit @ $96. BUT if I mail the pump down to them they'll rebuild it for an additional $30 of labor. That's a bargain and that's what I'm going to do. Now I just have to break my arse getting the thing OFF the engine. They promise a...

Funny you bring this up today. Saturday I noticed my port Hardin (the one I installed in 2013) is leaking at the bearing. Going to have to get Hardin's repair kit and press in a new bearing. 6 seasons and probably 240 hours. Not sure if that's good or bad but it is what it is.

I don't think ditching it is an option. You're likely going to have to replace it with the Cool Fuel 4 module, which seems to have solved the flakey paint problem. If your CF is original (now 14 seasons old) it might be a good idea to replace it anyway. Not cheap but...

Mine was a plain white box. I doubt there's any source for these gizmos is on this side of the world, even the "Mercruiser" ones.

I think it's a GM thing.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F223607831185

Ordered another one from ebay. Some aftermarket one - came with a gasket (same one as the OEM). Installed it on port engine and stowed the functioning (12 yo original) as a spare. It now has about 4 hrs on it and all's well.

There are wingnuts in other spots on these engines as well, I think (?)

Hmmm. I am very concerned about galvanic corrosion on these $1000 aluminum pieces of junk. Maybe make replacing the blue ones annually should become part of the regimen? They're cheap enough.

Fred, I had a blue wing nut break off too, and noticed it the same way you did (bilge pump was coming on). At first I thought I had inadvertantly cracked it somehow, but the more I thought about it the more I was certain I never bumped it. It was the stbd engine. After the same grief you went...

Met my acoustic act partner here on CSR. Around 7 years ago.