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So the starter was replaced and it started cranking. Plugs pulled and on port side only there is water in cylinders.

Diagnosis is a bad head gasket yikes tech tells me it can happen if you stop too quickly…

So the batteries are good both are charged and read 13v. When I turn the key I hear the fuel pump come on then the click but nothing else

I took the boat for a long hour run about a week ago with no issues but as soon as I arrived at my destination after killing the engine about 5 minutes later I could not re start the engine. The battery was around 12.2 or so volts and it was starting to turn over but wouldn't start. I killed all...

What is the advantage of having a quick disconnect hose? Wondering if it would be wise to remove the fitting and stick with a stainless clamp. It is in an area that could be easily kicked off when working in the bilge.

Thank you both!

Can someone help me identify this hose? It came loose while underway and I’m trying to understand the flow of the water system. I was able to connect it back although it doesn’t seem to be seating 100%. This is on the port side of the 350 mag mpi 5.7 very close to the oil pan.

Which model lumitec?

Yeah it’s less work to just replace the lights for sure so still debating options here but this is a good suggestion.

After replacing a few times I’m ready to fill these holes and forget about the underwater lights. What’s the best way to fill these considering they are on the transom below the waterline? Is there an epoxy that has more of a paste texture that will stay in place while drying?

It turned out to be the transom assembly. Apparently it is somewhat common after some time. Repair was around $5k with labor and parts. They have to pull the engine/drive.

Wouldn’t be surprised if they were in a rush…the way the mechanic shop is setup they can only get boats in/out to perform outdrive work +/- 2 hours of high tide and only have a few slips available for boats getting worked on. May be time for a new mechanic. They left aft cabin window open...

Last season we were seeing some water in the bilge after running the boat and in the off season they determined the culprit was the transom assembly so that was replaced. They completed a sea trial last week without issues and I also took the boat out for an hour and she was running smooth...

I was surprised to see that amount of water coming in from that small hole...as soon as I used 4200 to seal it up...no more water in the bilge after running. I will have to clean up that rust from trim bracket in the fall and replace it with a stainless one...change out the 4200 for 5200 a bit...

I found the culprit...I guess this must have been damaged when the boat was launched and it’s enough to allow water in when planing.

Got it, so it’s not likely this is the source of my leak? I see some rusting and moisture at the top of the outdrive assembly pictured below maybe this is the issue?

After running the boat I’m getting a few gallons of water in the bilge. It only happens after running the boat and is not happening at the slip. When idling at the slip I do not see any visible leaks. I do see some staining under the power steering pump and this would make sense since the...

I usually wax the hull and put on two coats of ablative paint. My marina does this and they are the ones allowed and all the subcontractors are not able to work until restrictions are lifted on 5/4. Of course that could get extended... Should I expect any long term implications from skipping...

I received an estimate of $2,800 to perform the following on my 2007 260DA w/Single Mercruiser 350 MPI: complete tune up,cap rotor,plugs,wires,ignition coil sending out injectors for proper cleaning replacing bellows boots and gimbal bearing outdrive annual service Just wondering if this is...

Agreed but it’s much easier to replace on land where I can drive the new tank right up to the boat. I will go with the bypass for now then replace in the spring.