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I had my shaft seals done this past summer. My spares had already been used and as it turned out, it was a good thing. My mechanic found that my SB engine was slightly out of alignment due to a seated motor mount. This was noticed in the play in the shaft at the cutlass. With the price quoted...

I don't know about a 2008 model but on my 2003, there isn't enough room to go through the vanity, so pulling the toilet is best. Then you're replacing those seals too, which probably need it anyway if the black water hose needs replacing.

Anyone have a recommendation for a dinghy davit for 2003.5 340?

Just curious...I had a similar, not the same issue....but have you done the basics for the fuel filters? Mine has a fuel/water separator and then a hard inline filter just before going into the generator. I'd replace both of those. And when you do, fill the fuel/water separator with SeaFoam so...

Nice boat pic. What sun fly are you using?

Agree with Kevin. I too use Seaflush. Though if the system is priming enough to pull the fluid, you can stick a hose sprayer on the end of one of the pipes. Shut off your sea cock, pull the hose from there and spray through all to ensure you flush all lines including the sea strainer. Then use...

Go here and enter a motor serial number and you'll have pics and part numbers galore. https://www.mercruiserparts.com/

Yep. Just replaced my shaft seals in February. They come with a spare. If you look between the boot and the transmission you may see another collar. In that collar is another seal that can be slid down into place after cutting out the old one. If that collar is not there, then this process has...

My boat as the perko brand and is different. But if you got to https://ownersclub.searay.com/ and sign up and register your engine serial numbers (or maybe it was the hull id) you can then get most of the manuals in pdf form. I use my parts manual all the time.....unfortunately.

I did this on my 2003 with Simrad. You have to replace the wiring harness under the gauges to get the smartcraft and new Simrad (and other brands from what I understand) and the original gauges to all work together. You have to set the smartcraft and the new device (Simrad) id correctly too, ie...

You can modify your existing and recharge with fresh charcoal when needed. It's really easy and cheap. I did mine. Here is a link to a chat on this site. http://clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/head-system-odor.99175/#post-1144501

That looks fantastic! Nice job.

I would guess that it is attached to the hub that is with the strbd engine. On mine, twin 8.1s inboard, my paddle wheel / sea temp has it's connections there. Worth a look....

Another issue....gotta love boating.....has anyone had to replace the wiper motors on their 340? Specifically, 2003-2008 models.

What engines and setup do you have? Also, here is an update after a good run yesterday....After getting up to speed and settling in around 3600 rpm, the pressure on both stayed around 35-37 psi. Back to trolling around 1500 rpm or less and the port will drop to or below 5 while the strbd stays...

Even if I knew that they were correct in the system by doing a manual check, it still wouldn't tell me what it is supposed to be. So I figure, law of averages by going with other peoples readings will tell me if something is out of whack and which one.

I've exhausted my search and also reached out to Mercruiser with no help. There is no published info for COOLANT PRESSURE. I've got my Port reading 5psi and my Stb reading 35psi after coming up to temp and running at 1200 rpm. Can someone help me by checking theirs and letting me know what...

Input your engine serial # in the upper right and you'll find your engine. Then look for Throttle Body and you'll get a good pic and part nymbers. https://www.mercruiserparts.com/v-8-inboard-engines

Unless you have digital controls. Then the IAC is built into the throttle body itself.

If you're referring to the 8.1s Mercruiser, on my 2003 editions the IAC is located on the opposite side from the serpentine belt. Small silver metal object with a couple of bolts holding it on. Nothing hard or magical about replacing it. A 5 min job.