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I just realized you were referring to the bushing, not the bearing. Apologies.

Funny enought, i was JUST looking into doing this. You can pound them out and back in using a socket of the same diameter as the bushing. Bushings are available on ebay for a few bucks. The plastic idler pulleys have a tendency to crack if not properly supported--at least according to the...

Govee products work great. In addition to smart plugs, they have remote temp sensors. I can monitor fridge and icemaker temps, and cabin temp and humidity from home.

Always like to recommend vendors that impress. My 8.2 Mercs were due for water pump changes (4 yrs in saltwater). No leaks yet, but I didn't want to wait until the seals went and saltwater was spraying all over my engines. I'm going to post something else on the change out procedure, which...

I would stick with the what you've got or its going to get expensive. I acquired a basically unused 2001 340 Sundancer with 7.4 MPIs that had 180 hours on them. Owner basically idled them at the dock every month or so. Engines were completely destroyed from the inside out by corrosion and the...

Well, that's evidence against a blockage. Although I agree with the folks on here that high water pressure is generally the result of post pump blockage of some sort. Very odd.

Do you have a scanner. I'd be curious what your exhaust Temps are

Let me know when you come to sell ;-) Zincs every few months, more so during the summer months. Fully flush with saltaway after every run. Manifolds/risers every 3-5 yrs. Paint/yamalube constantly. A losing battle all the way around.

Going to buty my next boat up there and ship it out.

Does anyone watch their videos. Rebuilding 70 year old Chrysler marine engines along with more recent stuff Few machine shops left that do this level of work. These days, you just buy a crate longblock.

You boys live in a different universe up there. I'm painting, flushing with saltaway, spraying everything with yamalube in a desperate effort to keep these repowers looking like new, and I still find rust everytime I'm down there.

Omg. 20+ year old manifolds/risers?! That's your answer. Lol

If you've got one cylinder at 75, in all likelihood you've got a valve that's partially stuck open or something else rather dramatic going on with the valves on that cylinder. I'd remove the valve cover and the manifolds/risers. By removing the valve cover, you can inspect the rockers, valve...

Actually, all water heaters have anodes, even the 50 gallon tank ones in your garage. No one ever replaces them. Heat and water corrodes, even when it's fresh. https://www.homedepot.com/p/CMI-inc-3-4-in-NPT-x-44-in-Long-4-Section-Magnesium-Anode-Rod-M341444/312525777

I replaced my original with an 11 gallon whale/atwood water hearter. Here's the anode. 3/4 NPT with one big hunk of magnesium. All that was left was the thin steel rod that runs up the middle of the anode...

You have to remove the water faucet fitting, and replace with a MAGNESIUM anode. The anodes are big. Just swapped mine after 3 years. Completely gone. Going to start checking annually

He should have the oil tested. If it doesn't contain coolant, its probably the oil cooler. This is in freshwater right? Have the coolers ever been replaced? If not, I'd do oil and tranmission coolers on both engines. Would also have the transmission oil tested.

Are we talking a lot of water? If so, I would have to say head gasket. Is the engine losing coolant and gaining oil?

Converted my existing Marinco shore power cord to the smart plug setup on the boat side a few years ago. The kit was a direct swap in terms of the boat side receptacle (no additional drilling, etc.), and was an easy wiring job on the shore power cord. Would never go back. Plug does not come...

Would check the plugs for signs of corrosion as well. The exhaust passages should be soot black, no corrosion whatsoever. The fact that youve got corrosion in there, means you have excessive moisture, which means the exhaust valves are corroding as well, which ultimately is what gets you...