210 Bravo 3 Prop Size

S

SeaRay

Member
Sep 12, 2007
239
Iowa
Boat Info
1999 Sea Ray 210 BR
Monster Tower MT2
Engines
5.0L EFI
Bravo Three
I have a 1999 210 Sea Ray with 5.0 EFI motor and bravo 3 lower unit.

It has a 28 pitch prop on it. That is what it came with from Sea Ray. Seems to run OK with it but we are getting more into wakeboarding and I want to add some ballast sacs, so I am guessing I should change it.

Couple of questions:

1) Is the 28 pitch prop the correct size for this boat? I seen some mention of a prop chart but can't seem to find one.

2) How much smaller should I go if I downsize for wakeboarding. I will probably add somewhere from 500 to 1000 lbs of water sac ballast.

Thanks
 
I don't know enough to answer your question, but I do know where you can find a prop chart. Go to Sea Ray's web site and click on customer service then manuals. There is a list on the left hand side with "prop charts" on the bottom. Hope this helps.
 
Good advice on the prop chart.

If you're getting 4,400 to 4,800 rpms at WOT with a LIGHT load, you got the correct pitch. Ideally, you want to be at the top end. I actually prefer to be able to get a bit more.

I've never actually played around with changing B3 props, so I don't know if the general rule that 1" in pitch equals about 150 RPMs holds true. Off hand, I can't think why it wouldn't. I just can't give you a definitive answer.

If I was in your situation, I would definitely install trim tabs, instead. They'll be less expensive and give you more control. They may or may not be tough to install on your transom - depending on clearance issues. Thinking back to my '98 210, I think you'll be OK, but I'm not positive. Stick with brand names like Bennett and Lenco. Electrics are easier to install than hydraulics.
 
Well, how 'bout I confuse things...:smt001

First, your '99 was a new model in that year. My dealer book is typically put out early in the year. The B3 drive must have been a mid-model year change and your boat is probably a late-production '99 - as my book did not show the B3 as an option. So, I went to my '00, '01, and '02 book. All 3 books show the B3 as an option with the 5.0L EFI engine (ps: you have it listed in your signature as MPI). All three books show the gear ratio as 2.20:1 (the same as the Sea Ray prop chart).

Here's where it gets interesting:

'00 = 24" pitch set
'01 = 22" Pitch set
'02 = 22" pitch set

:huh:
 
This is what I pulled from the Sea Ray Chart (the top link in my previous post) which I believe is my boat. It did list the 1999??

1999 210BR
5.0L EFI (240PHP)
Bravo 3 2.20:1
13.75 x28 SS-RH 708248
480015 x 28 SS-LH 708230

I am not sure if my boat is really a MPI or EFI (Actually I am not sure of the difference) I think I have seen it written both ways??

After some more research, this is where I am at (just to add further confusion).

It appears that the Bravo 3 props are offered in 2 different options, cupped and standard. I think the part numbers end in L for cupped and A60 for standard. Not exactly what the difference is but, apparently the cupped versions are slightly modified for better performance.

I am still not positive if the props are offered in both aluminum and stainless steel or just stainless steel. It appears just stainless steel??

I think I will call a local prop shop and try to figure out what I should do. But, I think I should at least try a 26 pitch possibly even a 24. The only problem is, I won't add the ballast sacs until next spring...:huh:
 
If the engine has never been changed, you have an EFI - 240HP. The MPI is 260HP. EFI has two injectors sitting on top of the throttle body (under the flame arrestor). MPI has an injector by each cylinder (8 of them).

I agree with you about the prop chart - I'm just not sure why there is such a disparity between that and my dealer books.

Let's take a step back, though. Forget the charts for a minute. What is your WOT - trimmed up, just you in the boat, minimal equipment.

Yes, only SS.
 
I am not sure what the rpm's are at WOT and unfortunately the boat is getting some gel coat work done right now so I don't have it to test. I won't have it back until next week.

I did call the local prop shop and was told that a 24 pitch "cupped" prop is basically equivalent to a 26 "straight" prop.

I won't need this until next spring, but for now I would like to learn enough to be able to start looking for the correct prop.
 
SeaRay said:
I am not sure what the rpm's are at WOT and unfortunately the boat is getting some gel coat work done right now so I don't have it to test. I won't have it back until next week.
Click to expand...

Very good. When you get it back, do some WOT tests and report back. Let's start with a baseline.
 
OK, I got the boat back and took it out this weekend.

I didn't actually have a light load so I don't know how accurate this will be. I had myself and my 9 year old son in the boat, full tank of gas and about 160 lbs of ballast weights in the ski locker.

The boat has an aftermarket wakeboard tower with tower speakers and the wakeboards were in the rack, I have added a second stereo battery plus all the normal gear - maybe another 150 lbs (just a guess).

The boat will never have less than this in it. We generally boat as an entire family (2 adults, 2 teenagers and the 9 year old).

The top RPM I got out of it was 4200. I also have never ran the boat at WOT for very long, if ever. I only made one run across the lake to see what I would get.

I bid and won on a 26 pitch prop on e-bay. I will try this and see what it does, I may have to go even smaller??

Any other thoughts?

Thanks
 
With the way you are using your boat, I would've gone to at least the 24", probably the 22". Realizing that the 22" MAY give the opportunity to over-rev the boat (depending on how it's loaded), but you can control that with the throttle and trim. Hole shot will be dramatically improved. It would be like night and day.
 
I agree, the 26 pitch prop is probably still too big for me. But I bought it right (the one and only bidder) and figured it was worth a shot. If it doesn't work out I should be able to sell it for what I got in it.

I think (hope?) there will be a noticeable improvement with the 26 pitch. Also with the ballast tanks I am getting I can drain them and remove the ballast. Today I have a ski locker full of old sand filled plastic weight lifting weights. They are there with us all day long, whether we want them to be or not!!

I hope to see improvements in both out of the hole as well as more manageable speed control at wakeboarding speeds (22-24 mph). And I still need to be sure the engine can't over rev because my wife and teenage kids do occasionally drive the boat. They do not pay attention to the engine rpm's at at all.

I should have both the new prop and one ballast sac (to start) later this week. We will see how it goes.

I should start a new thread on how to change the prop but just a few basics questions...

Can I reuse the hardware?
What are the torque values for each prop?
How are the props timed (I know this is a subject of debate)?
Is any waterproof grease OK for the splines?
Can I just put the drive unit in gear instead of using a 4x4 or 2x4 to hold the props?

Thanks
 
SeaRay said:
Can I reuse the hardware?
What are the torque values for each prop?
How are the props timed (I know this is a subject of debate)?
Is any waterproof grease OK for the splines?
Can I just put the drive unit in gear instead of using a 4x4 or 2x4 to hold the props?

Thanks
Click to expand...

As long as the locking nut is tight to turn, yes.

Stop when your elbow hits "2 clicks".:smt001

So that there are never two blades under the cavitation plate at once. Put the forward prop on with blade down, aft prop with blade up.

Yes. But the stuff from Merc is even heavier.

No.

Most, if not all, of this info should be in your manual - or check on Merc's site.

There's probably at least a few threads about this on here - try the search feature if you still want more info.
 
I found this post from somebody qualified much more them me.


I am in the marine business, have been for over 20 years. The 5.0 220 HP MerCruiser V8, assuming it has an Alpha 1, is a great power package. I service, sell and store many boats that have this engine in them, and I have had not one complaint about it. Three of the boats in particular are a 1999, 2000 and a 2001, all of which are Sea Ray 210 Sundecks. Now, all of these boats weight a significant amount more than the Tahoe, yet I've pulled 2 skiers with 5 people in the boat behind one of these Sundecks without any trouble at all. The 1999 and 2000 have the 5.0 220 HP Carb version of this motor, yet the 2001 has the 5.0 EFI version, which is 240 HP. The 2001 runs about 50-52 MPH, while the 220 HP 210's run about 47-49 MPH. Altitude plays a big part in horsepower output, and the Fuel Injected models will perform better at altitude, mainly because you have the Oxygen sensors working for you. O2 sensors regulate the fuel-air mixture, just like jets in a carb, only the O2 sensors do it automatically. If you take the boat to Tahoe, you may run into a situation where the boat may run a little rich. Also, another great thing about the Fuel Injection is the fact that it is truly a "turn-key boat," where you literally get in, turn the key and go. However, I don't see how you can spend $2,100 dollars on something like Fuel Injection, that's ridiculous. I am a new and used boat dealer, particularly in Sea Ray's, and am shocked at that price. How much is this boat going to cost? All I'm trying to do is put things in perspective here when I tell you that I just sold a 2002 Sea Ray 210 Bow Rider with a 5.0 MPI (260 HP, 54 MPH), CD Player, Captain's Chair, Snap-In Carpet, Bimini Top WITH Enclosures, Cockpit/Mooring Cover, PLUS a matching EZ Loader Trailer with disc brakes and 16 Inch Chrome Wheels for under 24,000. The boat had 75 hours on it, and literally was brand new condition-wise. I would highly recommend searching out other brands besides Tahoe. They are lighter than other boats, which means it may be a little quicker than others, but means that it will ride hard in the rough water. They have a lower freeboard than most other sport boats, and the quality isn't really there when you compare them to a Sea Ray. I don't think the Q6 will handle 6 adults as well as you want it to. You're going to be cramped for storage, let alone legroom!! Before you make your move on the Q6, definitely check out both Monterey's and Sea Ray's 21 foot model bow riders. They may cost a little bit more, but when it comes to quality boats like Monterey or Sea Ray, you can backtrack a few years (1999-2003) and still have a much nicer boat than the Q6 can be. Either way, EFI or MPI (MPI makes more HP than EFI) is the way to go. Good Luck with your decision!!
 
Not sure where that post above came from ???

Anyway, I got the 26 pitch prop installed and added one fat sac in the boat (about 450 lbs plus the 170 lbs or so I already had in there).

Overall I am happy with the prop. It definitely pulls out of the hole better than the 28 pitch did even with the added weight.

With that fat sac drained and 4 people in the boat it will hit about 4600 rpm.

You can tell the engine isn't working as hard as it was. And, the speed control is much better at wakeboard speeds. I need to get used to the engine turning at a higher RPM.

And the best news is that my gas consumption went WAY down, about 2/3 to maybe a 1/2 of what we had before.

The only thing that surprised me was I lost more top end speed then I thought I would. I know the smaller prop would do that but I was only getting 4200 rpm from the other prop and thought the smaller prop and the higher rpm of the motor would kind of balance that out.

So now I am not sure if an even smaller prop would be want I would want after all and maybe I am good with this one??
 
I'm a little surprised about your speed loss, too. But, what speeds are you talking about? And are you doing equal comparisons? Meaning - same weight in the boat?

That's good the 26" is working for you, though! :smt001
 
The top end speed of the boat with the 28 pitch was about 50 mph.

I never really paid too much attention to the top speed so this is just an average of what I remember. (I should have paid more attention and tested it before I took the old 28 pitch prop off. All I really looked at was rpm last time out with it).

I do know that when we first got the boat it would go a little over 50 but then we added the wakeboard tower, speakers, amps, another battery, collected a few more toys and other stuff in the boat. So we were probably at 48 mph and 4200 rpm on an average day with 5 people in the boat. (3 kids 2 adults).

With the new prop and basically the same people and stuff in the boat we topped out at about 45 mph at 4600 rpm. I thought we would pick up a little more on the top speed (with the extra rpms), or at least not lose anything.

The new (to me) prop is a used prop and I had a prop shop install it. They looked it over quickly and didn't see anything unusual about it. I suppose that there could be something wrong with it but it sure doesn't look like it??

I definitely notice the increase in rpm while driving the boat, both at wakeboarding speed and top end speed. For a fast run it gets there quickly then just goes kind of flat.
 
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