280DA A/C mounting

melida

Member
Apr 1, 2009
897
Istanbul-TURKEY
Boat Info
Sea Ray 2007 375 DA
Sea Ray 2005 315 DA Sold
Engines
2xYANMAR 6LPA-STP 315 HP V-drives, 4kw Onan gen, radar, gps, autopilot, bow&stern thrusters, sat tv
Hi to all again.
On wednesday I'm gonna put A/C and heat to my boat. The firm that I bought from them a local firm are both selling and servicing but using imported components pump, compressor..
They have a lof of references such as on Fairline boats, Jeanneau sailboats etc.
The owner is retired from Turkish Air Force and his position was aviational cooling technician.
The main unit will install to the aft dinette seat base as factory made, and the sea intake strainer and the magnetic heat pump to the engine room.
The mounting of the a/c unit and the engine room components are like a child's toy but I'm confused and curious about how to pass the water hose from eng room through the a/c unit, condensation hose through sump pump and the air duct throught v-berth.
Any comments, suggestions, advices who bought a/c after buying boat and did this process and where are the air ducts? one in v berth one at the just back side of the a/c unit in the mid-berth?
Thanks a lot.
 
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Anybody there ?
 
On the OEM 280 the air intake is under the table on the aft seat base. It also has a filter and but is not ducted to the AC unit. Is the location you have chosen low enough to be under the privacy curtain for the aft/mid berth?

If you have air flow coming out of the plenum above table top, I am nit sure you will have to great a pressure drop to get into the plenum in the top of the vee berth closet. The OEM version uses two ducts for this.
Henry
 
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Hi Henry

Thanks for the reply.

The location for the mid-berth is decided both by me and the A/C firm technicians.

Am I confused about the " If you have air flow coming out of the plenum above table top, I am nit sure you will have to great a pressure drop to get into the plenum in the top of the vee berth closet. The OEM version uses two ducts for this.
Henry "


 
Here are the photos of the OEM installation. Please pardon the mess as we still had not completely finished removing things for winter storage:

Here is the AC unit. Note the three ducts. One duct goes forward to vee berth. Other two go aft. One goes through bulkhead to outlet for mid berth. Other will go behind electric panel to feed plenum under portside center cupboard

AC280-1.jpg


First lets follow duct forward to vee berth.
This is the covering for the duct going forward to the vee berth closet
AC280-2.jpg


The lower duct going through forward seat:
AC280-3.jpg


after going through bulkhead, duct takes a 90 degree turn upwards
AC280-4.jpg


This is the recess for the vee berth privacy curtain, the duct is behind the black panel
AC280-5.jpg


at top duct makes a 90 degree turn into the top of closet
AC280-6.jpg


AC air exits from plenum at top of
AC280-7.jpg


Returning to the aft the duct for the feed above the table goes up vertically and makes a 90 degree turn forward through the bottom of the port side aft cabinet
AC280-8.jpg


Note that the raised cabinet bottom
AC280-9.jpg


Duct empties into plenum above table
AC280-10.jpg



What I meant in my post is that I don't think there is enough air flow/ pressure to be able to support two outlets on one duct.

Henry
 
It works like a self bailer? Does it attach to the inlet side of the condenser pump, or can it be attached to the outlet side?

Henry

It gets spliced into the discharge hose just before the thru-hull outlet (needs to be mounted above the waterline).
Very simple and effective, it utilizes venturi suction to "pull" the condensate from the pan. Comes with an adapter to reduce the size of the pan overflow to the 1/4" tubing supplied, then pulls the condensate through the 1/4" tubing and mixes it with the raw water overflow before it's sent overboard. Sumps are fine if there's already one there and it's easy to tap into, but if not this thing is ingenious...
 
It gets spliced into the discharge hose just before the thru-hull outlet (needs to be mounted above the waterline).
Very simple and effective, it utilizes venturi suction to "pull" the condensate from the pan. Comes with an adapter to reduce the size of the pan overflow to the 1/4" tubing supplied, then pulls the condensate through the 1/4" tubing and mixes it with the raw water overflow before it's sent overboard. Sumps are fine if there's already one there and it's easy to tap into, but if not this thing is ingenious...

So when the pan runs dry, it just sucks in air, but because its after the pump all its doing is aerating the cooling stream. I take it you are using this and are happy with it? We don't use our AC that much, but it still sounds like it would be worth it to keep down the growth in the sump box. Looks like I have to add something else to the winter mod shopping list. Thanks!

Henry
 
Henry

Great thanks for the photos and explanations.

Now I have 2 duct as I described before and hope you inspected my photos in photobucket.

I'm gonna change the dual duct with triple. One duct for the above dinette plenum and one for v-bert.

You asked me that 4 ducts will lower the cooling performance of the A/C.

My A/C has a capacity of 10.000BTU cooling and 11.500BTU for heating.

Let me explain how it won't. Since my boat' A/C is not factory installed I don't have the cut duct in the vbert(I guess you call it plenum) so like my tru mid cabin and under the dinette foot level duct it will be a closable duct like in the cars. So when I close one duct the other's ducting performance is increasing and all of air goes to the which duct is open. So the port side cabinet plenum since dont have a on/off duct it will always duct and which other one I prefer open it so there wouldn't be a cooling performance problem.
Best regards.
 
Henry- exactly right. When the pump is running you get a highly aerated stream overboard- that's how I can visually tell it's operating properly.
The condensate from my salon a/c was simpy routed through the ER bulkhead and dumped under the port engine (poor SR design). This was much simpler, and less $$ than installing a new sump. Been trouble free for two years since installation.
 

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