280DA - Running Wires

gnealon

New Member
Apr 8, 2009
570
West Babylon, NY
Boat Info
2005 280 DA, Garmin 4208
"Ship Faced"
Engines
Twin 5.0L Merc BIII
Guys, searching didn't get me far :smt009 so I hope its cool if I make a new thread. I also wouldn't mind if this thread turned into a Q&A on all 280 wire runs... so hijack away :thumbsup:

I am about to do a big audio upgrade. I will be replacing all 4 cockpit speaker wires... running a new sub speaker wire from the cockpit galley to the the mirrored closet above the aft berth... and a new 4ga power/ground wire from the ER to the mirrored closet above the aft berth as well.

So... questions

1. Is there a way to go from starboard to port w/o going through the ER?

2. When you removed the vinyl panels in the aft berth closet you can see where all the wires run toward the back. but it seems very tight and filled w/ hot glue/silicon. I hope there is a better way of running into the ER then through that portal.

3. Going to install a new remote at the helm for my stereo head unit... suggestions on running a wire from the helm to the stereo?

Thanks guys, like i said before, feel free to hijack and ask other "routing" questions. :thumbsup:
 
I don't know anything about a 280 ( and not much about high-output stereos, either), but how many amps does your system draw at 12v to need 4 gauge wiring? That's windlass stuff...
 
I don't know anything about a 280 ( and not much about high-output stereos, either), but how many amps does your system draw at 12v to need 4 gauge wiring? That's windlass stuff...

Well.. its a 600W JL Audio AMP. A quick look at the spec didn't tell me how many amp's it draws. But it says it accepts up to 4awg wire. (which i was told is recommended) I may even run 2 AWG and break it down to 4 at the amp. This would allow me to run another AMP in the future.
 
So... questions

1. Is there a way to go from starboard to port w/o going through the ER?

2. When you removed the vinyl panels in the aft berth closet you can see where all the wires run toward the back. but it seems very tight and filled w/ hot glue/silicon. I hope there is a better way of running into the ER then through that portal.

3. Going to install a new remote at the helm for my stereo head unit... suggestions on running a wire from the helm to the stereo?

Thanks guys, like i said before, feel free to hijack and ask other "routing" questions. :thumbsup:

It's funny that you bring this up. I replaced an open wire (aft cabin AC outlet) and had to run through those aft cabin panels, through the ER and tie up to cockpit AC outlet behind the captains chair. In short, I saw no easy port to starboard without going through engine room. (Maybe someone can come up with something better, but I searched and searched, and everything seems impossible.... head in the way, galley, door). Thank God I had a 10-year old son at the time, because it would have been impossible without his skinny little arms to feed the wire. I felt so bad, because the glass was really rough behind the cockpit outlet and he scraped his hands. He never said a word and never hinted at the pain, (because he knew I would have stopped him) but just suffered through it so he could play his PS3 in the aft cabin.
 
It's funny that you bring this up. I replaced an open wire (aft cabin AC outlet) and had to run through those aft cabin panels, through the ER and tie up to cockpit AC outlet behind the captains chair. In short, I saw no easy port to starboard without going through engine room. (Maybe someone can come up with something better, but I searched and searched, and everything seems impossible.... head in the way, galley, door). Thank God I had a 10-year old son at the time, because it would have been impossible without his skinny little arms to feed the wire. I felt so bad, because the glass was really rough behind the cockpit outlet and he scraped his hands. He never said a word and never hinted at the pain, (because he knew I would have stopped him) but just suffered through it so he could play his PS3 in the aft cabin.

geez man... did you go through that "hot glue" mess in the aft cabin closet to get into the ER?

Thanks for the info.
 
geez man... did you go through that "hot glue" mess in the aft cabin closet to get into the ER?

Thanks for the info.

Yes, we had a composite rod from a kite that we had laying around to which we duct-taped the new wire. It was difficult getting it through, but putting vaseline on the rod really helped. Kind of felt like a boat proctologist after everything was done! : )
 
Additional wire run question-
Once the access pannels are reomove in the port side cabinets to access the gunwales, can you see up in to the radar arch? I'm looking for the easiest run for an XM/Sirius antena to the top of the arch?
 
The easiest way to get from starboard to the port side is through the radar arch. It drops down right above the mirrored cabinets.

I'm looking into mounting a TV above the sink and wiring it to the audio system and an audio guy confirmed that is the path of least resistance.
.
 
The bottom of the arch and the section of boat that it rests on are closed. The stbd side arch has holes in it for the nav lights and radio antenna (and of course the mounting studs). From memory I can't recall what the set up on the port side is. If it is closed off you would have to drill.

Keep in mind that doing this can potentially create a pathway for ER smells and more importantly CO to get into the living space. Be sure to goop it up after you are done.

Henry
 
The easiest way to get from starboard to the port side is through the radar arch. It drops down right above the mirrored cabinets.

I'm looking into mounting a TV above the sink and wiring it to the audio system and an audio guy confirmed that is the path of least resistance.
.

SWEEEET! I never even thought of that ;-) :thumbsup: Thanks for the input.
 
The bottom of the arch and the section of boat that it rests on are closed. The stbd side arch has holes in it for the nav lights and radio antenna (and of course the mounting studs). From memory I can't recall what the set up on the port side is. If it is closed off you would have to drill.

Keep in mind that doing this can potentially create a pathway for ER smells and more importantly CO to get into the living space. Be sure to goop it up after you are done.

Henry

Thanks Henry for the advice. I will 100% be sure to do that.

I am still curious what the best way is to get into the ER from the mid berth cabinets. I see the gooped up path all the other wires take but doesn't look too easy to get through there. Is that the only way? :huh:
 
Thanks Henry for the advice. I will 100% be sure to do that.

I am still curious what the best way is to get into the ER from the mid berth cabinets. I see the gooped up path all the other wires take but doesn't look too easy to get through there. Is that the only way? :huh:

Unless you want to drill a new hole and fill it with your own goop... then yes. The firewall (so to speak) was breached for the wire chase and as Henry stated, it was then filled with goop to eliminate the migration of gas fumes or worse, C/O into the cabin..
 
Ran several wires when I installed our new Garmin radar and gps. You can get to most locations on our boat but from my experience, it took longer to 'figure it out' as far as the wiring than to actually do it. I had to drill one hole in the boat under the arch support to allow for the wires to come down from the arch. Then used the existing hole in the ER (after removing the silicone) and up to the opening in the Helm. Removed a speaker to give me some access to grab the wire mid-way up from the ER. Lastly, I listedned to a suggestion from a fellow board member and left a stainless tell wire in place should I have to pull wires through this path in the future.
 
Ran several wires when I installed our new Garmin radar and gps. You can get to most locations on our boat but from my experience, it took longer to 'figure it out' as far as the wiring than to actually do it. I had to drill one hole in the boat under the arch support to allow for the wires to come down from the arch. Then used the existing hole in the ER (after removing the silicone) and up to the opening in the Helm. Removed a speaker to give me some access to grab the wire mid-way up from the ER. Lastly, I listedned to a suggestion from a fellow board member and left a stainless tell wire in place should I have to pull wires through this path in the future.

Thanks Gerry... i couldn't agree more about "figuring it out" hence my creation of this thread.

Is it true, as someone already mentioned, that there are holes in the arch support only on the starboard side and not the port?

Also, would you mind being a little more descriptive on how you "entered" the helm?

Thanks again.
 
Thanks Gerry... i couldn't agree more about "figuring it out" hence my creation of this thread.

Is it true, as someone already mentioned, that there are holes in the arch support only on the starboard side and not the port?

Also, would you mind being a little more descriptive on how you "entered" the helm?

Thanks again.

Re the arch holes, I believe that is correct. Re the helm, there is an opening there for all the existing smartcraft and other cables to go through. Look up from under the drop-down door and you'll see it .
 
Re the arch holes, I believe that is correct. Re the helm, there is an opening there for all the existing smartcraft and other cables to go through. Look up from under the drop-down door and you'll see it .

Perfect... thanks Gerry! :thumbsup:
 
Guys... do any of you know how easy it is to hook up a power/ground wire to the (1 - 2 - Both, aka House) switch as opposed to running directly to one battery? I want to hook my amp up to whatever i toggle on my house perko switch. I was hoping there was a distribution bar somewhere that is fed from that switch.

Thanks.
 
Take a look at the picture below:

P1010796-1.jpg


The buss bar aft the the batteries is the main ground. Note this is also where the bonding system ties into the ground. This is the one and only place where black (ground) and green (bonding) wires can be connected. Note forward of the EIM is a red Terminal post. I believe it is the positive connection you are looking for. It is marked with an ID so you can check it against the wiring diagram in your owner's manual.

I will caution you that you should place an inline fuse (just like the windlass) directly off the positive post. You have significant wire gage and enough amps in the batteries to weld steel, or set fire to your boat.

Henry
 
Take a look at the picture below:

Henry... this is PERFECT. Thank you very much!!!!!! :thumbsup:

I will caution you that you should place an inline fuse (just like the windlass) directly off the positive post. You have significant wire gage and enough amps in the batteries to weld steel, or set fire to your boat.

Absolutely, within 18 inches i believe as well. My AMP requires a 50A fuse in the power line w/in 18 inches. Thank you for bringing that up for others to read as well :thumbsup:
 

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