Amplier install location

[wakeup 19]

First timer looks like a great site for info. I have a 92' 30' sundancer and wanted to know if anyone has installed an amplifier for their stereo on this type of model. I bought a 300 watt alpine 4 ch. I was thinking about installing it in the battery area which is usually dry. Any other thoughts? I know if needs some air and I was going to try to keep it out of sight if possible. Also, I have 3 batteries (group 27) will this system drain them quickly? I do sit on anchor a lot but don't blast the system. thanks Wakeup II

 

[white glove]

I assume you mean in the bilge? I think There is too much heat and wild swings in heat and humidityIn the bilge for sensitive electronics, I would install it in the cabin where it gets air flow.As in any 12 v device, battery drain is a function of time and amp draw. If you a pulling large 12v loads at anchor , the charging function of the converter on the house and the generators charging circuit for its bank should be sufficient.If you draw large dc loads over time at anchor without simultanious charging then there is always a chance of voltage to start your engines dropping to insufficient levels. I would advise never to install an amplifier in a bilge . If you wanted to run a larger conductor than stock searay wiring directly to the batteries , I would suggest running it to the two banks that are connected in parallel. This is to provide more amp hours ,As always ,it boils down to prudent operation, if you drop your guard with your batteries ,they will most likley let you down.

 

[Uplate]

I am contemplating upgrading my audio as well. Have got some got advice from forum members (Thanks WAVE).

One of the best suggestions I think is to get a new 4 channel amp to power the 4 cockpit speakers and keep the crappy Clarion Amp to power the two cabin speakers.

The OEM Clarion amp is behind my power panels and mount to a side wall. I thought I would try and install the new amp there out of sight.

Somehow I doubt that the space behind the electric panels are ventilated, even though this is where the factory put the original amp.

 

[white glove]

I agree with Uplate. The best thing I ever did was to go with a four channel amp upstairs and use less power downstairs where it is seldom needed. I installed mine in the cabinet next to the head unit and the cd changer. It gets sufficient air flow there .The best solution is forced airflow but if thats not possible ,install the amp in the largest space possible to prevent heat buildup.I usually leave the cabinet door open when really working the amp and have yet to have a thermal shut down.

 

[wakeup 19]

Thanks for the feedback! I have a locker on the port just as you enter the cabin, it is near the batteries which are midship across from the helm. I can open the door at anchor a bit to let it breath. I only have 4 speakers 2/2 so I may just power all 4 with the amp and fade accordingly. I was also think of a subwoofer or maybe trying to find a space for 2 more speakers in the cockpit. thanks again

 

[Morpheus]

The closer you put the amp to your head unit (stereo) the better off you will be. You will want to run power and ground from the battery to it but that will be easier (cheaper).

1. You'll have to run power and ground (get a marine fuse/circuit breaker for it) from your batteries.
2. You'll need to run the speaker wires from the speakers to the amp (if your close to the head unit they might reach.
3. You'll need to run a remote turn on wire from the head unit (stereo) to the amp so the stereo turns on and off the amp
4. You'll need to run rca cables (output left/right front/back probably 2 sets) from the head unit (stereo) to the amp's inputs.

I also posted in another thread if your not up to it Best Buy is doing marine products and installs now so you might check them out.

 

[Uplate]

The closer you put the amp to your head unit (stereo) the better off you will be. You will want to run power and ground from the battery to it but that will be easier (cheaper).

1. You'll have to run power and ground (get a marine fuse/circuit breaker for it) from your batteries.
2. You'll need to run the speaker wires from the speakers to the amp (if your close to the head unit they might reach.
3. You'll need to run a remote turn on wire from the head unit (stereo) to the amp so the stereo turns on and off the amp
4. You'll need to run rca cables (output left/right front/back probably 2 sets) from the head unit (stereo) to the amp's inputs.

I also posted in another thread if your not up to it Best Buy is doing marine products and installs now so you might check them out.

Good Info Morph:

Do you have to run a separate 12V line from the batteries or can you jump off on existing wiring already close? I am sure it depends on wire gauge and amp draw of the new amp. I am considering a new 300 Watt ish unit for the rear 4 speakers.

Do most head units have the remote turn on? I can see that this is important to save battery power when stereo is not in use.

 

[Morpheus]

Like you said it does depend on wire gauge and amp draw of the new amp but here is why I wouldn't do it.

Although this applies mostly for a subwoofer amp I would still run seperate power and ground for any amp. Mostly with bass notes the amp will draw alot of power specially if you like bass like I do. But either way that power draw will take away from other things like lights, instruments and such. The lights could dim if at night with them on and well that looks gheto for one and two it's just not good for your other electronics to have that happen.

So although a little more work and cost you will be happier about it. Just make sure you put a decent fuse or throwable circuit breaker inline with the power wire preferably a marine variaty.

As for the remote wire I don't think I've seen any aftermarket radios ever come without one so it's there I'm 99.9% sure and it's probably purple (pretty common color for the remote turn on wire). It's a very low voltage (might even be ground type now) and all it does it signal the amp to turn on/off with the head unit. Stock Car Radio (might exist in todays car) never came with a remote turnon.

Putting your amp near your radio means shorter RCA cables, remote turnon wire and possible speaker wire but long power and ground wire. Power and ground wire is cheap compared to LONG RCA wires. Also the longer the RCA's the better chance you could have noise on them.

 

[Uplate]

Thanks again Morph-

I am going down to the boat in a few hours and perhaps take a peek at another option. In my panel where the main 12V switches are, there is another 12V panel with breakers. I think these are for breakers that you normally do not turn off, bilge pump, etc. I noticed that in this panel there are a couple of blanks where new assessories can be installed. this might a good place to add breaker while tapping into main 12V without going to the battery poles themselves.

This panel is also a very short run (maybe 6') to the cabin panel with the Radio and additional 120V/12V breaker setup and has lots of space available. Maybe I could put the amp in there, again though probably not much airflow. If I install one, I certainly want it hidden.

 

[Morpheus]

Ahh see I mainly think about my boat and I don't have anything like that so. There is probably a decent amount of power and ground there at your panel since you have a bigger boat so that should work. You could allways add a relay and 12volt dc fan and use the remote turnon to turn the fan on along with the amp. That's something as a kid we did. Buy a cheap amp run it a full capacity but cut holes in it to mount fans on it to keep it cool.

How hard you push the amp will determine what airflow you need.

I always try to get an amp that's powerful enough where I don't have to turn it up past 50%. Keeps the amp cool and will last longer as well.

 

[Cocktail Time]

On my boat we installed two 1200w Diamond Audio amps; one 4 channel and one monoblock sub amp in the cabinets on either side of the head unit behind the tambour sliding doors. They stay dry, get warm, but not too hot even when played hard for a few hours.

A separate power and ground to the amp with the recommended gauge wire is a must, both to not kill the amp or leave it starving for power. The remote lead from the head unit will be a light blue and will turn the amp off when the head unit is powered down.

If you are hesitant or not sure how to install an amp, look up some other threads that were very detailed on this site. A crappy installation will make a good amp sound pretty ok to bad. If you are just wanting better sound you might want to consider upgrading speakers and tuning the amp you already have. I have seen several Sea Rays where the amps were not setup/installed correctly and just a few tweaks made a great improvement (for free)...

 

[Uplate]

I am going back to research some older threads on this. I may hire a professional, although I see this as rather easy other than chasing new wires.

 

[Cocktail Time]

Uplate,

Just a suggestion with a question, but I wired my amps directly to my house batteries. In my previous boat we wired them to the battery switch and every now and then I think this contributed to problems if I left the switch in the both position. I'm curious to hear how and why others have their boats' amps setup.

Dan