Converter/Charger

[AKBASSKING]

First issue with my 86 300DB.

In my battery area I have two batteries, the gen-set box and a silver box with a amp gage on it.

This silver box, which has 2 white wires hooked to the + sides of the batteries and 1 black wire hooked to one battery with a jumper to the other one. I am assuming this is the charger, converter.

Found both batteries completely dead. Replace one battery and disconnected the other white lead and wrapped it in electrical tape. I tried to totally disconnect the white wires, but nothing on DC power.

Issue: When I throw the converter switch on the electrical panel, it trips the C/B.

All I want is DC power at this point so I can see what works and doesn't work.

Bad converter/charger or am I missing something here?

 

[MLauman]

You are correct - that silver box is a charger/converter. Assume you have checked the fluid levels in the batteries.

If this charger is the original (1986) device then it is LONG past due to be replaced. Even if it is working correctly (and it sounds like it may not be) you should replace it because it is based on obsolete technology. Modern 'smart' multi-stage chargers proactively monitor the 'state' of the batteries and supply only the necessary amount of current. This results is much longer life and better reliability from batteries.

Also be aware that some chargers will not operate correctly if you disconnect one of the positive out leads. Pro Mariner chargers, for example recommends that 'unused' positive leads be strapped together as failure to do so causes the circuitry to misinterpret the needed charge rate.

 

[Sundancer]

About a month ago I pulled out my original Pro Mite "fully automatic" charger from 1989 and replaced it with a Pro Mariner 1220i. It was an easy swap and now I know EACH of my three batteries are being cared for. With the previous system, I had three batteries, but two were wired together via the positive charging lead since it was a two bank charger. It wouldn't matter if I was on battery 1 or 2, they were linked through the charging lead.

The new technology will extend the life of your battery and reduce the amount of water they use over the course of that period by not boiling off as much water. That is worth it!

 

[AKBASSKING]

Thanks MLauman and Sundancer. That is exactly what happened; it boiled my two batteries into death!

In looking at the system, it currently has only two batteries. The port battery for the port engine has all the boat systems hooked to it.

I plan to change this and place a 3rd battery and use it strictly for the boat systems so I can isolate the starting batteries. I will be replacing it with an updated converter charger.:thumbsup:

 

[Nehalennia]

I did the same thing on mine. I replaced the Old ProMariner "Flyback 20-3" with a ProMariner ProNautic 1240i. It really is nice.

When I bought my boat in December I knew the charger was bad. I called ProMariner to see what it would cost to get repaired. They said, "It's not worth repairing as the new ones are much better, we'll send you the charger of your choice for 50% off List"

I'm not sure what your brand is but if it's ProMariner give them a call.

 

[AKBASSKING]

I did the same thing on mine. I replaced the Old ProMariner "Flyback 20-3" with a ProMariner ProNautic 1240i. It really is nice.

When I bought my boat in December I knew the charger was bad. I called ProMariner to see what it would cost to get repaired. They said, "It's not worth repairing as the new ones are much better, we'll send you the charger of your choice for 50% off List"

I'm not sure what your brand is but if it's ProMariner give them a call.

Thanks.

Not sure as most of the label is gone. I will be looking at a charger/converter for 3 batteries if one is made.

 

[Nehalennia]

Thanks.

Not sure as most of the label is gone. I will be looking at a charger/converter for 3 batteries if one is made.

That's what Mine does. It's for 3 Banks of batteries.

 

[AKBASSKING]

Well,

I connected the other white lead and it still shuts downs my electrical system.

When I am looking at replacing this little box is it just a charger, with the converter behind the electrical panel or is this box everything? Charger and converter?

If I disconnect both white leads and flip the breaker on the control panel for the converter, nothing happens, dead. I do have power via the battery.

Is it possible to run the boat systems without the battery and just using shore power, or do you have to have the batteries hooked up?

Thanks for your help.

It would sure be nice if I could find out a wiring schematic for this boat.

 

[MLauman]

Well,

I connected the other white lead and it still shuts downs my electrical system.

Definitely sounds like a problem with the charger.

When I am looking at replacing this little box is it just a charger, with the converter behind the electrical panel or is this box everything? Charger and converter?

No hidden boxes - it is a combined charger/converter.

If I disconnect both white leads and flip the breaker on the control panel for the converter, nothing happens, dead. I do have power via the battery.

Disconnecting both white leads removes the converter's ouput from the equation - regardless of the breaker setting.

Is it possible to run the boat systems without the battery and just using shore power, or do you have to have the batteries hooked up?

It is possible - particularly with small loads like lights, etc. But a converter is not designed for high-current bursts. You wouldn't want to start your engine with it for example.

 

[AKBASSKING]

Thanks MLauman.

So I will need to replace it with a converter/charger combination.:smt089

Any recommendations?

 

[tobnpr]

I just replaced the converter/charger in my boat. I had no luck finding a "converter/charger" to replace it. Not really sure what the diff is anyway, as long as the charger can deliver 12v continuously to power accessories it serves the purpose. I replaced mine with a Xantrex TrueCharge 40+; 40 amps, 3 battery banks, user-set parameters include gel/agm/flooded battery types as well as battery temperature. Also has a setting which will allow it to operate purely as a 12v power supply. Also has a remote panel available which is useful to have if the charger is mounted in an out-of-the way location where you can't see the indicator lights.

 

[AKBASSKING]

I just replaced the converter/charger in my boat. I had no luck finding a "converter/charger" to replace it. Not really sure what the diff is anyway, as long as the charger can deliver 12v continuously to power accessories it serves the purpose. I replaced mine with a Xantrex TrueCharge 40+; 40 amps, 3 battery banks, user-set parameters include gel/agm/flooded battery types as well as battery temperature. Also has a setting which will allow it to operate purely as a 12v power supply. Also has a remote panel available which is useful to have if the charger is mounted in an out-of-the way location where you can't see the indicator lights.

Thanks. I am used to RV terminology. When you have 120VAC applied, the system switches from batteries to a converter which supplies 12vDC to the RV.

In marine applications it would appear it is basically just a battery charger.

Where did you get your Xantrex TrueCharge?

 

[tobnpr]

Tom-
Bought it at Defender:
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|328|51495|985|316473&id=94213

There are a lot of choices here; I needed a 40 amp charger because of my battery size (8D's), and the fact that I have a really large DC load at night (cabin lighting, electronics, underwater lights, etc.) that approaches 40 amps. You may not need as much...

 

[AKBASSKING]

Tom-
Bought it at Defender:
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|328|51495|985|316473&id=94213

There are a lot of choices here; I needed a 40 amp charger because of my battery size (8D's), and the fact that I have a really large DC load at night (cabin lighting, electronics, underwater lights, etc.) that approaches 40 amps. You may not need as much...

Thanks

 

[Nehalennia]

The term "Converter" is essentially older now, before Inverters came along. The converter is really the charger, converting the AC to DC. Now with the Charger/Inverter units you can get both in one. I just replaced my charger with a charger. It does not Invert power from 12DC to 110VAC when off Shore power. When on shore power, I flip the breaker for the "Converter" on and it charges the batts.

I'm very happy with the ProMariner Pronautic 1240i. It's a 40AMP AC charger for 3 banks. I only have 2 batts now but may add the 3rd.

 

[bw219]

Is the converter on our boats under the seat in the salon next to the A/C? I just replaced all four batteries in the boat and am still running them down even when connected to shore power so I'm assuming its the converter. Looks like mine has a Sentry D "something" (can't get to the entire label).

Also, I don't like the way sea ray wired the batteries in this boat, seems like starting operations and house should be separated but they are not. House batteries also start the port engine....

Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks, Brandon

I just replaced the converter/charger in my boat. I had no luck finding a "converter/charger" to replace it. Not really sure what the diff is anyway, as long as the charger can deliver 12v continuously to power accessories it serves the purpose. I replaced mine with a Xantrex TrueCharge 40+; 40 amps, 3 battery banks, user-set parameters include gel/agm/flooded battery types as well as battery temperature. Also has a setting which will allow it to operate purely as a 12v power supply. Also has a remote panel available which is useful to have if the charger is mounted in an out-of-the way location where you can't see the indicator lights.