Hot Bearing/Hubs HELP?

Slap Shot

New Member
May 6, 2008
24
I've repacked bearings and replaced bearings and the disc brakes don't seem to drag significantly, so why are my bearings on the brake axle hot to touch?
 
What kind of trailer? Does the wheel spin freely when the trailer is blocked up? You may also want to update your signature with your boat info. Some people will not reply if you don't
 
Thanks Chuck1 - It's a 2005 Shorlandr Trailer. I had problem last year with brakes locking up. I bled the brakes and that cleared locking brakes but not the heat. When trailer is blocked up, the wheel spins pretty good (slight drag but I think it's to be expected with disc brakes). Thanks for the tip on the signature ... I'm new to this forum and love reading it so far!!
 
IMHO - Should not have any drag unless the surge actuator is engaged. I'm sure some others will jump in with more info for you.
 
The castle nut on the bearings could be too tight. Some recommend "finger tight" others say firm them up then back them off a 1/4 turn.
 
My dad likes to say "Sung it up and back it off one flat." That would be 1/6th of a rotation. I live by it and it works great.
 
I just replaced all of the lines on my 04 Shorlandr and had to bleed a dry system, got the system bled out, went to test brakes and they worked but wheels and hubs got hot, they are not supposed to get hot, disc brakes hanging. I boat in salt water, I wash down everytime I dip the trailer, I had rust, freed up caliper slides and test, found pads still hanging, rust under the stainless shims, as well as on the upper pad slide, had the pads wedged. I also had one wheel bearing loose, disc brake wheel bearings cannot be loose, if they are the disc will lean and rub the pad. Tighten wheel bearing until no play after I back off to the cotter pin hole, now hubs run just slightly warm. That is all you should have is warm, they should never be too hot to touch or uncomfortable to touch, if they are then something is wrong. Disc brakes run with a very close tolorance, they rotors usually have about .003 runout to push the pads away from the rotor, this should happen on the first revolution of the wheel when you start moving again. After that first revolution of the wheel there should be no drag on the wheel is everything is working properly. This is the reason the wheel bearings have to be adjusted properly, you only have .003 clearance on each side of the rotor so the rotor has to run true, if not then you have excessive wear and travel to apply brakes.
 

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