Oil Change Pump

What product did you use and does it bolt right up to the existing Merc location?

I don't know, they were on my old Sundancer with twin 350's. The remote filters were VERY VERY easy to reach, and there was plenty of room to swing a filter wrench. Also, collecting any extra drippings with a plastic bag was a piece of cake. I plan on researching and will let you know...
 
I just purchased one of these, hooked it up and I don't feel like the hose is going all the way into the oil pan. Any tips?? I am going to compare the extractor hose to the dipstick length. Anybody get or make an extension for the one that comes with it?? Thanks


I use the manual pump above, (moeller) and noticed that it auto shuts off before the oil pan is empty and I have to empty the container, then re-connect for the final 8-10 oz. when it gets everything, you should hear the slurping and can see the color change in the tube.

5.7 L small blocks.
 
I bought the Manual Pump from West Marine....On Sale for $30 and was ecstatic. I had a 12 volt and the hoses would fall off and you had a constant mess. The new one is self contained, one hose and creates a vacuum wich empties your pan in a few pumps and less than 5 minutes......For the $70 savings its well worth the $30 sale. http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...L=true&storeNum=6&subdeptNum=169&classNum=170
 
I have one. It works fine, but you need to be careful that the hose is fully inserted into the pump fitting or it won't pump well if at all. Also, the pump is slow. The plus side is that the oil is properly contained in the tank and it does not leak.

Best regards,
Frank
 
The oil change with this pump worked fine over the weekend. I found that by pulling the tube out until you hear it sucking air, then pushing back in a tad until you see the oil flow worked best. It does take some time, but while it’s pulling the oil you can change the filters. With the remote filters I found the best way was to loosen it with a couple of full turns, then a few more and wait. At that point do it fast and have the bucket right there to drop it in. With the remote filter being upside down you want to move fast to prevent having oil dripping down into the bilge. It all worked out fine. I used 3 gallons of Mercury Synthetic Blend oil between both engines.
 
I just bought a cheaper elec oil pump off ebay for $25 shipped that doesn't have a container. Since I will be doing all of my work in the drive way with the boat on the trailer, I don't need to worry about that. Hopefully the pump works alright!
 
Haha, and it looks like I have a spare oil pump now. I was watching some video's online about how to winterize your boat, and the guys on the show mentioned that some of the newer engines have an oil line that you can pull out through your bilge drain hole. I opened mine up over the weekend and low-and-behold.... I have the oil drain line, haha. Sooo, anyone need an oil pump? $20 shipped
 
Used 12 volt pump with container this weekend, worked great. Five quarts out, five quarts in. As far as the leaking filter, poked several holes in the top of it with a pocket knife and let it sit for a few minutes and then removed it slowly. No leaking as the vacum was broken with the holes and the oil dripped back into the engine prior to removal. Bilge was as clean as it was when I started.
 
Ditto, there should always be a little spilled oil, the oilly outline of a hand on the vinyl, and blood splatterings in the area that was worked on. What kind of mechanic are you anyway? Sheeesh

Very picky one. Had many shop rags around to make sure the the hands were clean prior to touching the vinyl and was very careful when removing the filter. The fact that the engine compartment is wide open and the filter is right there on top made it easy. Now the mess on driveway from the out drive oil was a different story. Thank god for the gravel driveway where I store it (my parents house)!
 

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