Removing Props from B3?

P

ProfitOfDoom

New Member
Jan 7, 2010
188
Eastlake,OH
Boat Info
1987 268 Sundancer
Engines
454 Mercruiser/Bravo Three
I took off the bag from around my props and they look pretty dull and dirty so I wanted to take them off and give them a good cleaning and polish. I just wanted to know how they come off,just remove the nut and pull off,Is it as easy as that?
Or is there spacers,seals etc that I need to know about before I try this?
 
There is a bolt holding the anode on (9/16" i think) and then 2 nuts, one for each prop. You are going to need a special prop wrench
b3-prop-wrench.jpg

Order #B-3 Dual Prop Wrench: Designed specifically for Mercury's® Bravo Three Drive. One wrench covers both prop nuts. One end fits the 1-7/16" outside nut; the other end fits the huge 2-3/4" inside nut.

Torque Wrench fits at either end
Black & Silver hammer tone powder coat for durability and rust prevention
Weighs 4 pounds
Model #B-3 Duel - $60.49

get it here:
http://www.properthing.com/models.html

or check with a boating store or marine service shop in the area

You'll also need a block of wood (scrap of 2x4 or 2x6) to use as a wedge to keep the props from spinning.
 
There are two spacers also.They usually get stuck in the propeller BUT make sure you note how they go on.They are beveled to go on one way.

You ca also use channel locks(big) for the big nut and a big socket for the small one.
 
You should lube the shafts before reinstalling props. so they can come off in the future.
 
Ok I went ahead and took my props off today. My dad is going to have them cleaned up at his work then I'll put them back on this weekend. I had questions about putting them back on, The spacers are the brass rings are the dome things that fit into the props? Thos didnt stick in the props they stuck on the shaft,I didnt attempt to pull them off,Should I? Besides that,I would just get some spline grease and grease everything,splines and spacers where they fit into the prop? My last question is do I need to put any type of lock tight on these nuts? Also I read about torque wrenching them,the 1 I could,,,but the other is huge and you have to use a big pipe wrench to get it on or off,So any advice on how hard should I tighten these and if I should use any type of locktight?
 
you really need to get a-or the prop wrench shown above in 1st sea ray's post. torque the inner and outer nut.
personally i use new nuts when ever i remove the props. this is standard procedure when ever you remove a self locking nut. many dont and reuse the old nut again. asking for trouble imho.

i would torque as per specs and stay away from loc-tite in this applaction
 
I dont think that wrench would work for me,I had to use a 36mm socket for the first nut,,and I dont even think they make a socket for the 2nd,I had to use a large pipe wrench almost opened all the way. I'll check into new nuts,,,but these wernt lock nuts?
 
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the ones i have for my b3 and and the spare set i bough and carry are nyloc style nuts and they do make a socket just to remove the inner nut and re torque it

some one here on the 4-m just had one for sale a day or two ago.

i dont run after market stuff so not sure what all is out there but the genuine mercruiser stuff is as stated.
 
They do make a deep well socket for the second nut. Here is the link: http://www.mercstuff.com/bravopropwrench.htm The only bolt that needs locktite is the one holding the anode on. Use the blue type (?) so that it can be removed in the future
 
While you have your props off, remove the thrust washers, (the brass cones) and clean them and your prop shafts. While you're at it, inspect the shaft seal at the lower unit housing. This is a point of corrosion that if enough aluminum errodes away, the seal will begin to leak water into the gear case... Once you get things cleaned up, apply Merc spline grease liberally to the shafts and the thrust washer before sliding it all back together.

For the big nut, I've used the Merc deep socket as tbird noted. Try to find the right socket instead of a pipe wrench if you can...you sure don't want that front prop to come loose.
 
Thanks for the tips,,anything need to be done to the seal other then inspect it,maybe smear some of the spline grease around there? I'll check it but it looked pretty clean in there,,the actual drive where it actually goes into the prop looked like it was eroding pretty decent,so im going to fix that area up and paint it and hopefully it will last me a while if I keep a eye on it and maintain it.
Yea I dont think I need new prop nuts,these look pretty good.
I guess I will buy the socket for the big nut,I looked around to find what they should be torqued at,so I didnt get this confused because they referred to this as front and rear "I think I know what there talking about but just to be sure" The Big nut gets 100 ft/lbs and the small nut gets 60 ft/lbs or torque,Does that sound correct?
 
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looks like your spot on.......correct


Propeller Installation
1. Apply a liberal coat of one of the following Quicksilver lubricants to both the inner and outer propeller shafts: Special Lubricant 101, 2-4-C Marine Lubricant with Teflon, or Anti-Corrosion Grease.
2. Slide the front thrust hub onto the outer propeller shaft with the tappered side of the hub
toward the aft end of the propeller shaft.
3. Align the splines and place the forward propeller onto the outer propeller shaft.
4. Install the front propeller nut and torque to at least 100 lb. ft. (136 N·m). Check propeller tightness after 20 hours of operation. DO NOT operate the boat with a loose propeller.
5. Slide the rear thrust hub onto the inner propeller shaft with the tappered side of the hub toward the aft end of the propeller shaft.
6. Align the splines and place the rear propeller onto the inner propeller shaft.
7. Install the rear propeller nut and torque to at least 60 lb. ft. (81 N·m). Check propeller tightness after 20 hours of operation. DO NOT operate the boat with a loose propeller.
 
Ok,I just called my local boat shop,and they have both spline grease and prop nut socket in stock,so I'll be ready after the paint :)
Whats everyones thoughts on the prop shaft that holds the anode on,Im fairly certain mine doesnt have a threaded hole for the bolt to go in,,However there is a hole back there,almost looks like a pilot hole kinda?
Think it would be possible just to drill into the pilot hole and tap for the anode bolt to go in without removing the actual prop shaft?
Or should I leave well enough alone?
 
ProfitOfDoom said:
Ok,I just called my local boat shop,and they have both spline grease and prop nut socket in stock,so I'll be ready after the paint :)
Whats everyones thoughts on the prop shaft that holds the anode on,Im fairly certain mine doesnt have a threaded hole for the bolt to go in,,However there is a hole back there,almost looks like a pilot hole kinda?
Think it would be possible just to drill into the pilot hole and tap for the anode bolt to go in without removing the actual prop shaft?
Or should I leave well enough alone?
Click to expand...

NO NO NO< they make anode kit that includes a new rear nut with an extension that the anode bolts to.Look around.It will be a goldish/brass nut with anode.Our year B3's don't take the rear anode but surely can benefit from it.

BTW,you mention corrosion on something? Are you talking about the raw metal piece that comes out fo the drive and fits inside the rear prop?

That is called the carrier bearing housing/assembly and is the famous leak/corrosion spot for the B3.Mine was bad and eventually got eaten away on the bottom side and leaked all my fluid out.The part does unscrew but is often impossible to get out.I bought another drive that was not corroded down there.

I would clean that housing up nice and paint it up as best you can.Then grease the heck out of it.
That is the bad spot for B3.s.The newer style B3 has a coating on it from the factory.
 
Found it,,that makes everything much easier!
Only problem I see now is,,I'll have to buy a new socket?
I have to buy the large socket for the big nut my local place has it for 84 bux. I guess im better off buying that dual end prop wrench for the b3,, arnt the sockets hollow and go as deep as I would need,then it will accept the torque wrench on the handle off to the side of the socket part,Is that how those work?
http://www.boatzincs.com/MERProp-Nut-D-mag.html
 
Not sure about using a torque wrench with that dual end socket wrench. The torque reading would need to be adjusted if the it is offset from the center of the nut. The single deep well socket is best for using a torque wrench.
 
Not sure about the offset torque tension? But What I mean is to get to that custom nut for the anode I would need a really deep socket,So I would be better off getting the dual end wrench?
Also if anyone can point me in the direction on where to order all these parts,Im going to need the wrench,anode nut,and anodes kit,Where would be the cheapest place to order from also with quick shipping?
 
P O D;if you haven't read this thread, about half way threw or so there is a discussion on this very subject.

i ordered two of the long nuts-anode kits for our 310 this after noon and went ahead and got the deep socket to torque them with. the socket was an additional $50 or so

http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?p=344896#post344896
 
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