Replace surge brake actator
- Thread starter Slap Shot
- Start date
If an actuator goes bad (leaking master cylinder, usually), your brakes will stop working, which means they will get cooler, not hotter.
How much heat are you talking about? They should be warm, but you should be able to keep your hand on them (even if just barely).
There's at least a few threads out there on this subject, try a search.
But, if they're getting very hot, it's more than likely either the brakes themselves (disc or drum?) or the bearings.
If you've never bled brakes, changed pads/shoes or re-packed bearings before, I suggest you take it to someone to do it for you. To try to explain it via words is not always the easiest thing. You don't want to mess with your brakes - they're a very important thing to have functioning properly.
How much heat are you talking about? They should be warm, but you should be able to keep your hand on them (even if just barely).
There's at least a few threads out there on this subject, try a search.
But, if they're getting very hot, it's more than likely either the brakes themselves (disc or drum?) or the bearings.
If you've never bled brakes, changed pads/shoes or re-packed bearings before, I suggest you take it to someone to do it for you. To try to explain it via words is not always the easiest thing. You don't want to mess with your brakes - they're a very important thing to have functioning properly.
thanks Dennis - I can quickly touch but not hold on to the hubs on the brake axle. The others are cool enough to handle. I've already repacked bearings and the brakes don't appear to drag much. The actuator would impact both brakes which is why I was thinking it might not be fully or quickly releasing thereby affecting both brake hubs.
Hmmm. Well, there is a spring inside the actuator that helps to push the ball coupler back out. These do tend to last quite a while, but if it was shot, the brakes might be coming on more often. How far can you push in the ball coupler by hand? Discs or drums?
Something else I just thought of: How's your brake fluid level and what color is it? Which hubs are hot (or do you only have a single axle)?
On edit: Do you have (or access to) a good size truck to tow your 210 with? If your comfortable with this and can find some safe, relatively untravelled roads, why don't you try to narrow the problem down a little more. Physically lockout/prevent your brake actuator from moving/functioning. Drive around for a while, then check your hubs. If there still hot, you've eliminated the actuator from the scenario. If they're not hot, you know your bearings are good.
Something else I just thought of: How's your brake fluid level and what color is it? Which hubs are hot (or do you only have a single axle)?
On edit: Do you have (or access to) a good size truck to tow your 210 with? If your comfortable with this and can find some safe, relatively untravelled roads, why don't you try to narrow the problem down a little more. Physically lockout/prevent your brake actuator from moving/functioning. Drive around for a while, then check your hubs. If there still hot, you've eliminated the actuator from the scenario. If they're not hot, you know your bearings are good.
Last edited:
Go Aweigh2452
Active Member
- Aug 8, 2007
- 1,163
- Boat Info
- its in my signature
- Engines
- 6.2 Horizon MPI w/guardian system
You unplug it and screw the old out out and the new one in... then bleed brakes starting from the furthest wheel away and working back to the reservoir...
I can push the ball coupler by hand and they are disc brakes on double axle trailer. The other axle is fine (no brakes on that axle). I bled the brakes to make sure that wasn't the issue. I'll try to lock it out as you suggest (I pull with Tahoe). Only now I have to find a lock out key (mines lost).
How long have you had this trailer? Has it always been hot? The reason I ask is that those brakes are trying to stop 5,500 - 6,000 lbs. That a lot to ask of only two brakes.
FYI: In some states, it's illegal to only have brakes on one axle of a tandem set-up. It won't pass inspection, either. IF you happened to get in an accident...:smt009
FYI: In some states, it's illegal to only have brakes on one axle of a tandem set-up. It won't pass inspection, either. IF you happened to get in an accident...:smt009
Loneranger
Well-Known Member
- May 2, 2008
- 1,068
- Boat Info
- 2000 SeaRay Sundancer 270
- Engines
- 7.4l Mercruiser w/ Bravo III
I replaced the entire master cylinder on mine last year and it was not difficult at all. The hardest part is bleeding the brakes afterwards. I have a web site I found with detailed instructions on how to do it but it is bookmarked on my other computer. If you need the site let me know and I will find it and post it.
John
John
Well thanks to all inputs on this issue I've been wrestling with. I thought I'd let you know how it was resolved. I brought the trailer to someone I really trusted not to do "extra" work and he replaced the damper. Dennis, while I was able to push my actuator in 1/4 to 1/2" the damper was giving too easily. The brakes were running at 265 degrees!! Yikes ... I knew they were hot but not that hot. The hubs are back to normal. I can't understand why a damper would begin to fail so early. I'd estimate that I had only 4500 miles on the trailer. I'm ready for the road. Thanks again to all contributors!!
Mark V
Member
Looks like Slap Shot got his fixed, but just to add an FYI for others who end up needing to fix theirs-
1) I had to troublshoot and fix mine which had a Demco actuator, and I posted my novice lessons learned. (searching for "Demco" in the trailering forum should find it)
2) I knew I'd have to bleed the brakes solo, so I spent about $25 at the local Auto-Zone for a little hand operated vacuum pump brake bleeder kit. It worked like a charm, I highly recommend it.
Now it's quite comforting to feel the trailer brakes kicking in like they're suposed to! :thumbsup:
1) I had to troublshoot and fix mine which had a Demco actuator, and I posted my novice lessons learned. (searching for "Demco" in the trailering forum should find it)
2) I knew I'd have to bleed the brakes solo, so I spent about $25 at the local Auto-Zone for a little hand operated vacuum pump brake bleeder kit. It worked like a charm, I highly recommend it.
Now it's quite comforting to feel the trailer brakes kicking in like they're suposed to! :thumbsup:
They don't normally, but you never know. Although it's still 4 years old - it's just a cheap little shock. Once in a great while you get one that's bad from the factory. Heck, this one might last you 10 years!
Glad you got it figured out:smt001
PS: Just a recommendation, but it would advisable to get a second set of brakes installed on there.
