Tightening Packings?

DKRanger22

Member
Apr 28, 2009
135
Eastlake, OH
Boat Info
300 Weekender, 1985
Engines
Twin 350 Crusaders, 270 HP
This is my first boat with straight shafts, and thus my first experience dealing with shaft packings. Can anyone provide me with some basic information or pointers for a first timer?

My port engine appears to be very dry, but the starboard is dripping quite frequently (probably one drip every one to two seconds).

Any insight would be appreciated.
 
Whay kind of packings are? Are they dripless or drip?
 
There is a special packing nut wrench you can buy that is the correct size or you can do what I've always done which is to carry a large channel lock pliers that opens to the size of the nut. Basically you tighten it down to where you get a few drips a minute. You need to make sure the packing nut lines up with the opposite gland so the cotter pin can be reinstalled. It helps if you line things up so you can pull the pin out easily for the next adjustment. Also, do not tighten more than necessary and put just a small bend on the cotter pin so that it won't vibrate free and can be pulled out without having to straighten it. Makes the next job easier. Consider going dripless or going with a good teflon packing material that requires fewer adjustments than the old fashion flax cording.
 
The one that is not dripping is a problem waiting to get serous. If they are not drippless there needs to be some drip as sbw says. The drip indicates that there is water in the bearing and that the shaft is being lubricated and cooled. Sounds like you have to tighten one and loosen the other.
 
If you have gore material packing, a drip is not necessary. I bought a huge cheap pipe wrench for tightening mine. It has a real long handle so it may not be able to swing in every bilge, but it works well for me. My packing nuts are around 3 1/2".

pipe-wrench-1.jpg
 

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