Tools to work on helm

[Big Al]

What tools do you use to work on helm; eg: make holes to install flush mount equipment.

I want to install a larger Multifunction display on the helm of my 1995 370 DA and I would like to know what tools to use to widen the MFD hole (jigsaw ?, if yes what type of blade ?) type of drill (steel or wood ?), etc... Any information, tips would be welcome.

 

[sbw1]

Most people place a piece of protective paper with adhesive on the back side and stick it to the helm. The template is applied to that and the entire material you need is sometimes included in the package of the equipment you are installing. You drill a pilot hole and then use a handheld jigsaw with a sharp, somewhat fine blade and follow the template staying just a bit on the inside. Clean things up with a file.

 

[Stray Cat]

Though I don't own one, I always thought a Roto-Zip tool with a steady hand would be good for this kind of work.

How thick is the surface that you will be working on?

 

[Sundancer]

The key is having a steady hand! As the replacement cost of a new dash goes up, so would my shaking!

 

[Weave]

What about a hole saw ?

 

[Pirate]

If you're not familiar with the necessary tools, I would be concerned about your proficiency with them. Jig Saw, Hole Saws, protective tape, etc. A RotoZip can be handy, but they are not so good with the helm area because it is so thick. I tend to break bits often. Even if I do get away without breaking the Roto bits, it takes 2-3 bits to do a display hole because they wear out. The jig saw or variations thereof are better. Make sure and use protective tape to avoid scratches, etc.

 

[Hampton]

Check behind the area before you start. Many cables arc up enroute to their destinations. Also, you may have wires taped up under there. This may be obvious, but you never know.

 

[Henry Boyd]

I'd have to agree with Matt. I am currently working on a dash design (winter project). The console on the 280 is as thick as 1 inch in places made up of 3/4" plywood with glass and cloth on both sides. This is not work for the faint of heart, or inexperienced.

If you are going to be doing any cutting on this kind of stuff the first thing you should have is a dust mask (white disposable ones are fine), and safety glasses.

Henry

 

[Big Al]

Thank you all for your comments. It is very useful. I have never work the helm of a boat and frankly I don't know its thickness or if it has plywood under. That is why I am asking these questions.

However I have some experience working with wood.

 

[Sublimetime]

If this is a square display cutout,....sometimes it is easier to use a hole saw with the proper radious in each corner then connect them onthe straight sides with a jigsaw. When cutting thick/hard material with a jigsaw, when making corners the blades tend to "wash out" and not cut straight up and down.causing hole to run out at bottom.

Samething with the roto zip. without a good guide they tend to want to jump off line.

 

[Henry Boyd]

BigAl,

There are a couple of ways to approach the helm cut out. One approach is to make the cut out match the exact mounting outline of the display. Making an exact cut out may be difficult because many suppliers (like RayMarine) make their displays with curved lines between corners, and very tight tolerances.

The second approach depends on the space available, and your own taste. This would involve making a mounting base for the display. With a mounting base you can cut a slightly larger (and less precise) hole in the helm. The more difficult/precise mounting hole could then be done in the workshop under controlled conditions. The mounting base could be as simple as a piece of star board, or as complicated as a rail and stile frame (like a cabinet raised panel door frame). I installed a large Raymarine radar display last year for a friend using a teak rail & stile frame reinforced with marine plywood. The finished frame was rabbitted on the outer edge so that it set into the hole in the helm like a semi-recessed drawer front.

In cutting the hole use masking tape along the cut edge to minimize cracking in the Gelcoat. I would also suggest 'painting' the cut edge with epoxy to seal it and reduce possibility of crazing and seal any exposed plywood.

In my project I am going the mounting base way using a base supplied by Vector Imaging in Fall River Mass who has received many accolades from CSR members for his replacement dash panels. The tools I plan to employ are a hole saw and a sawzall.



Henry

 

[Lake Erie Boater]

My only .02 is that which ever tool you use (particularly with jigsaws, sawsalls, drills etc.) is to have plenty of spare blades/bits. It is amazing how quickly they dull when going through the fiberglass. This is when you get impatient and things start to go wrong. I have found the best tool for this kind of work is just that... patience. Let the blades do the work and you will end up with the best possible outcome.