Transom Door

[wileecoyote]

This is a pic of my transom door. It looks like there may be a small block of wood near where the hindge bolts up, other than that I can't be sure. My question is this. I don't want to rip the whole door apart and replace everything, realisticly, if I let the door sit, it won't dry out but can I grind back the fiberglass and rejoin it? I don't think the wood is even wet, due to the location it rarely gets wet anyhow. I know everything gets moisture, but I don't think is has much more than atmospheric moisture.

 

[Nehalennia]

How did it crack?
I would think there is some cause and you'll want to address that as well.

 

[wileecoyote]

Not sure, It was properly attached and tight. It worked nicely and never rubbed. My only guess is there is a little wood and it expanded and caused a split. Once that happened it just continued. I can push it back together, but there is force that wants to open it up?? Maybe someone who know fiberglass better than me can tell me. Has anyone seen this before? My guess is everyone will tell me to cut it open, check out whats inside, if it's wet replace it and reglass back together.

 

[boatmailster]

This is a pic of my transom door. It looks like there may be a small block of wood near where the hindge bolts up, other than that I can't be sure. My question is this. I don't want to rip the whole door apart and replace everything, realisticly, if I let the door sit, it won't dry out but can I grind back the fiberglass and rejoin it? I don't think the wood is even wet, due to the location it rarely gets wet anyhow. I know everything gets moisture, but I don't think is has much more than atmospheric moisture.

originally wooden box was put together using staples. once they corroded only gelcoat hold it together. you could predrill and countersink holes and screw it back together, and gelcoat over screw heads or use screw caps.

 

[mwph]

I know a lot more about wood than I do fiberglass so I'll go this route... If the frame is indeed made with wood, I say water breached the fiberglass, soaked the wood, causing it to swell then warp. Warping wood has termendous force. The crack or hole where the water got in is where the split started.

So, if this IS the case, simply screwing it back together will be a temporary fix.

Again, Im certianly no expert. Just my guess.

 

[NorCal Boater]

"There is never time to do it right but always time to do it over"

I would just take it to a good fiberglass shop, have them open it up and fix it right. Or you could look around for a replacement.

 

[tobnpr]

You've apparently got a systemic issue going on in that area because your swim platform is damaged in the same way.
I can't see it as anything other than moisture damage- perhaps even related to freezing. This would expand the wood core if it were waterlogged and cause the fiberglass skins to crack.

BTW- Ill try to get you those cockpit pics tomorrow...

 

[sbw1]

It does look like frozen water damage.

 

[RobF300]

there is no bandaid for that, it must be cut open and properly addressed, the seam where the 2 parts were put together is letting go and you can see the wood is no good.

when you do get it repaired- here is a tip: drill 2-3 drain holes in the bottom of it, this way when water gets in, and it will, it will get out, drill them on the very bottom, the only people that will see the drains will be the fish.

 

[dpmulvey]

Looks like freeze damage. Remake it out of Starboard or equal. Not getting "Starboard" brand will save you a ton of money. Second you could make it out of wood and finish to your liking.

 

[wileecoyote]

You've apparently got a systemic issue going on in that area because your swim platform is damaged in the same way.
I can't see it as anything other than moisture damage- perhaps even related to freezing. This would expand the wood core if it were waterlogged and cause the fiberglass skins to crack.

BTW- Ill try to get you those cockpit pics tomorrow...

Yes, it seems to be my area of problem right now. I never thought of freezing, but that makes sense. I wasn't sure how much wood was in it, because I wouldn't think it would have to be wood?
Can't seem to get the multi quote working, so What is a good alternative to the starboard, also why is there wood anywhere but in the hinge area? Would the whole thing really need to be a cabinet coated in fiberglass? I was wondering if I do cut it open why not remove the wood and add starboard supports to the top,bottom, and end to keep out sagging, then properly reinforce the hinge area. I may just take it to the guy I know who does fiberglass and see what he suggests as well. Thanks for all the help, I wanted to take this apart before I started ripping apart the swim platform.

 

[Sorrento 25]

Make it out of a solid block of laminated urethane foam, then glass and gelcoat or Awlgrip it. Or, you can use the cheap non-urethane pink/blue insulation foam and use latex paint as a barrier coat from the polyester resin. Or...the cheap foam and epoxy resin but then you have to use paint and not gelcoat to finish.

This way you'll never have to worry about any twist developing or the assembly difficulties with creating a box structure.

 

[wileecoyote]

Update: Here's what It looks like when the door is cut in half. It seems that there were wood blocks glassed in all the way around and then the piece I cut off was glassed on or formed later. Appears to me that the problem was that the wood got wet and expanded, and the interior panel was not properly adhered to the frame. You can see where the 2 different fiberglass sections really bonded together. The wood is 1" at the most strips. Question, what type of wood should I get to replace this??

 

[wileecoyote]

Here you can see where the fiberglass just seperated.

 

[Sorrento 25]

Man would I love to repair that. It doesn't much matter what type of wood you use as long is it is 100% sealed. I'd cut and seal the wood pieces well, bond the wood on the first side with Corvette adhesive, bond the second side onto the first with Corvette adhesive, and then glass the entire seam from the outside. Epoxy would be even better, but Corvette adhesive is cheap and thick.

If you want to avoid refinishing it you could skip glassing the seam, and instead just sand and fill the seam nicely with white MarineTex and a layer of smooth clear tape over the top until it cures.

 

[wileecoyote]

Man would I love to repair that. It doesn't much matter what type of wood you use as long is it is 100% sealed. I'd cut and seal the wood pieces well, bond the wood on the first side with Corvette adhesive, bond the second side onto the first with Corvette adhesive, and then glass the entire seam from the outside. Epoxy would be even better, but Corvette adhesive is cheap and thick.

If you want to avoid refinishing it you could skip glassing the seam, and instead just sand and fill the seam nicely with white MarineTex and a layer of smooth clear tape over the top until it cures.

If you would love to repair it, I will have to try and get it to you! I'd love for you to do it too!
What is Corvette adhesive? I googled it and couldn't get any results. I know a guy who does some work on fiberglass had told me you can bond wood with Bondo and It hold really well. Then I would glass the pieces back in and reset and glass in the seam. Is that basicly what you are saying? I think we are on the same track. I really thought there would be more wood inside, as heavy as the door is. It seems pretty simple, considering what I thought it would be.

 

[Sorrento 25]

Bondo absorbs water like a sponge. Corvette adhesive does not and has better bonding properties. Be sure to rough up everything you apply adhesive to. When its all done I would drill two drain/vent holes in the bottom corners but not penetrating the seal of the wood.

EDIT: Actually, you want the Fiberglass-Evercoat #870 product, and it should be available at any local auto body supply store.