We have a 2006 340DA and today I was down in the bilge checking everything and noticed that the vacu-flush system would kick on periodcally to re-create the vacuum. Anyone know where I should begin in figuring out where I might have a leak in the system? I would guess the seal in the head but before I start messing with things it might be good to hear from someone that knows for sure. I am not real handy and being without income for two years now I am trying to do as much as I can myself (scary thought). Thanks to all that might help us out with some ideas.
Vacu-Flush Issues
- Thread starter LatisIII
- Start date
rblatter
New Member
First start with the seal in the head, I use the Sealand cleaner, specialy clean the rubber gasket. Then search this forum: vacu-flush, valuable information if you like to read the posts.
R.Blatter
2001 Sundancer 310
R.Blatter
2001 Sundancer 310
Hmm... That's an awful new boat to have vacuflush problems. Do you use the head often or does the boat sit a lot? Have you used caustic chemicals down the toilet (i.e. like bleach or super-dee-duper toilet cleaner)?
Losing vacuum is often caused by duckbill valves and you may have something jammed in one/two/three/four of them... You married? Teenage girls? You floss your teeth? Use condoms? Wipe your butt with paper towels?
Need more info...
Losing vacuum is often caused by duckbill valves and you may have something jammed in one/two/three/four of them... You married? Teenage girls? You floss your teeth? Use condoms? Wipe your butt with paper towels?
Need more info...
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Nacho Boat
New Member
- Sep 23, 2008
- 482
- Boat Info
- 290 Sundancer 2006, Kohler Generator
Northstar 6000 GPS
Towed w/Ford F-350
- Engines
- Twin 5.0L Mercruiser w/Bravo III Drives
That happened to me last weekend. I found that the seal in the toliet itself was leaking (water in the bowl would slowly leak out...). A light cleaning of the bowl, especially with the flush open, immediately cured that.
- Nov 12, 2006
- 5,334
- Boat Info
- 1999 Sea Ray 330DA
Twin 7.4 MPI (310 propshaft HP) V-drives
- Engines
- Twin Mercury Marine marinized 7.4L L-29 V8s
Cast iron block w 4-bolt mains
IF the bowl isn't running dry, then I doubt the bowl seal is bad. You probably have bad duckbill valves. Easy, but not enjoyable job changing them.
Oatmeal can cause a problem too....
- Oct 4, 2006
- 2,344
- Boat Info
- 2006 300DA Sundancer
- Engines
- 350 Mags / Bravo III
Not to mention corn....
I had a similar thing happen this weekend...pumped the foot pedal a few extra times during the flush to clear the Sealand TP that collects between the ball and seal.
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BON DIA
Member
- Oct 5, 2006
- 356
- Boat Info
- '05 340DA, C80 w/ 2KW Radar
- Engines
- 6.2s w/Vdrive
We've had similar problems a couple of times. Once Nick's suggestion corrected, other times it's been dry crudded up duckbills that preventing a good seal.
As suggested in a much earlier post, when we leave the boat for days/weeks we:
Fill the bowl ¾ full with water & flush to blow everything thur the duckbills.
Turn off the vacu-flush system.
Flush to loose the vacuum.
Put a couple of tablespoons of dish soap in the bowl.
Open the flush valve until water backs up in the bowl a couple of inches.
Let this stand until you use the boat next.
That has corrected/prevented any vacuum problems we're had in 4 yrs.
As suggested in a much earlier post, when we leave the boat for days/weeks we:
Fill the bowl ¾ full with water & flush to blow everything thur the duckbills.
Turn off the vacu-flush system.
Flush to loose the vacuum.
Put a couple of tablespoons of dish soap in the bowl.
Open the flush valve until water backs up in the bowl a couple of inches.
Let this stand until you use the boat next.
That has corrected/prevented any vacuum problems we're had in 4 yrs.
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