What is my Raw Water Capacity?

[Captain Don]

I have a 1988 340 with 7.4 Big Blocks Fresh Water Cooled. I have been winterizing this boat for 7 years. Everyone tells me I use too much antifreeze for the engines. I usually buy 8 gallons of BanFrost mix it 50-50 for -75. I will run a total of 8 gallons of this 50-50 mixture thru each engine. Is this an Overkill? Anyone know what the Raw Water capacity is?

 

[wingless]

Why is this being dilluted? The -60°F and the -100°F is already pre-mixed.

The amount sounds way too much. My 454 Horizons are winterized w/ 4-5 gallons each.

My process is to fog / run dry the fuel system, w/ the fuel filter half full of engine oil and the bulkhead fuel valve electrically disconnected.

Then the exhaust is drained of water.

The strainer is drained and filled w/ anti-freeze.

Then the intake hose is jammed into a 5 gallon bucket full of antifreeze. The starter motor is used to suck the bucket dry.

This has worked fine for me for many years.

 

[Captain Don]

Wingless, Thank you for you reply. I am following the directions on the BanFrost 2000 label for mixture. Undiluted it is good for -100. There is a blending chart on the product label for mixing Ban Frost 2000 for mixing to winterize an engine block for winter storage. 1 gallon of Ban Frost to 1 gallon of water give us -75. I agree most manufactures do not recomend diluting, this one does. Here it is 12.99 per gallon, up from 10.99 last year.(Rhode Island)
I am going to cut down to a 6 gallon 50-50 mixture per engine, I agree its a shame to waste it its so expensive.

I made a big 10 gal plastic barrel with a valve and 1 1/4 hose coming from the bottom. I attatch this hose to the intake hose off the strainer, I fill the barrel and keep a running garden hose replenishing the barrell with fresh water and run engine to flush for 10-15 minutes. After flushing I stop the engine fill the barrell with the mixture, then start the motor and let it suck it thru the whole system, it flows from the intake hose thru the exhaust system to outside the boat. when the mixture is about an inch from the bottom of the barrel I pour ATF into the carburetor, fog out the motor, if it don't stop I'll pull the coil wire. This year I might use a Fogging spray instead.

Then I attatch the intake hose back on to the strainer, open the cover, fill it with antifreeze. Then I'm done. After the boat is hauled I will open all the seacocks to drain and they are left open for the next seasons launch.

I believe what we do is similar. Again I appreciate your input. Please let me know if something don't sound right, I don't want to make a mistake.
Thanks

 

[wingless]

Doesn't it hurt to pull the coil wire? On newer ignitions isn't that voltage lethal?

That's why I run my fuel dry first, then do the raw water. I couldn't figure how to have 'em happen at the same time.

Also, the bulkhead electrical fuel valves on my boat have a manual knob w/ auto and on, which are useless for shutting off for winterizing, hence my disconnecting a wire.

I don't think it'll hurt to have more fuel in the system over the winter, though it seems better to run dry...

 

[Captain Don]

On the coil wire, I have it loosened and ready to pull out if need be. I use a insulated pair of pliers. On the fuel, I previously put stabilizer in the fuel tank, throughly mixed thru the system. I do not run the fuel system dry.
I believe the fuel will be ok as long as it is stabilized properly.
I store with my tanks full. I followed Boat US recomendations, either store bone dry (not even a few gallons) or store full and stabilized so no water can accumulate. I have been doing this for 7 years, I check my fuel filters regularly and water seperators. I have never had any water or fuel problem. Either I'm doing the right thing or just lucky.
What ever works is ok.