- Mar 25, 2008
- 5,526
- Boat Info
- 2006 Sea Ray 58 DB
- Engines
- MAN CRM V8-900s, Twin Disc Drives; Onan 21.5 Generator
Thanks for the update John. I haven't had this happen to mine - yet...
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Were we bored at work yesterday??
Hmm ..not really sure. Do you have a link to something like that? I know they do make belt tensioner gauges ..maybe I should invest in one. I’m convinced I’m overtighteneing.
Hmm ..not really sure. Do you have a link to something like that? I know they do make belt tensioner gauges ..maybe I should invest in one. I’m convinced I’m overtighteneing.
The below diagram is for a sterndrive...but shown for the purpose of the discussion. Part 24 is the tensioner, but you would problably need other components for the conversion as well i.e. part 17 etc. Obviously you would need to confirm it could be done and the parts are for the Merc 8.1 inboard motor if you were considering going down this path.
On my 2004 the belt tension is handled at the alternator. There is a pivot bolt and tension adjustment bracket/bolt. I just had to deal with this because my alternator locked up heating up my belt to the point it broke and also melted my grooved tension pulley. I picked up one at an auto parts store but think the proper one is the Dayco 89004 if needed (I just ordered one and will confirm).
-Kevin
8.1 belt tensioner proper tension. New belts, tighten to the point that using your thumb and pointing finger only, pinch the belts near together but not touching under moderate pressure. Firm but not hard squeeze. After a couple of hours of use, pinch again. If the belts touch, then tighten up slightly to the original pinch. That should be good from that point on.
Those Gatorback belts were the only thing that could make the squeek stop on my '01 Tahoe. I believe that they are made and/or branded as "Elite by Continental" or something along those lines. Do you happen to know the Gatorback model number for the 8.1s?Assuming that the engine's belts are within proper tension specs, I replace one belt at a time and actually "tune" them to each other. That's right - tune'm... It might sound crazy, but plucking the un-touched engine's serpentine belt will produce a tone. Pluck the same position on your newly installed belt. It will also produce a tone, but usually either lower (belt is too loose) or a higher tone (belt is too tight). Continually pluck, compare, and adjust until they both have the same tone. Start up the engine for a few seconds, shut it off, and make a final comparison.
The other thing I found is that the 8.1 OEM belts are quite prone to squeaking and clicking. I changed the belts to Goodyear Gatorback Belts and have found them to be squeak free for 4yrs now. These belts were only $17 each too.
You probably should start a new thread to get better attention. I will say that the tensioner is spring loaded to maintain proper tension on the belt, if it would not move then the spring loaded base is locked up/ defective, that is why you had to go the route you took, the tensioner needs to be replaced.Had a squeak I was dealing with and swapped out the belt which stopped the squeak. According to the manual, the 8.1 has a belt tensioner pulley wheel in the middle of the serpentine route. It said turn it clockwise with a breaker bar (and 13mm socket in 1/2” drive) to loosen the pulley tension so the belt can be removed. When I did that it did not loosen the tension, only tightened the bolt. I felt having that much leverage I could easily snap the bolt so I stopped. Instead I loosened the alternator and got the old belt off - new belt on that way. Should I be concerned the tensioner is not working properly or did I do something wrong?